Tungsten

I swing them,if I see a rise cast in front and swing it by.Let it sit a few secs before you start to strip it in.Take a step down stream cast swing repeat steel head style. Ive also had luck nymphing them in a riffle,i normally tie 2 on of the same pattern, let them swing at the end.I don't bother with an indy. I also seam to have more luck with patterns that have a tail??So maybe there taking them as caddis not sure but most if not all my September throat samples are boatman.

When fishing 2-5' of depth,which is where the fish are,4x tippet right from the indi/hopper.Thinner line sinks faster so no heavy weights needed.

So when you say " or inches you really mean cm right ?Or maybe just your glasses are a little dirty. Go!

just a guess but maybe some fuel cleaner or carb cleaner sprayed right in the carb. and whats a Honda knock off look like?

It doesn't say on there web site what resin they use.So we have to assume its polyester like all the other boats.This means gel coat and as soon as you ding it the poly resin underneath starts to absorb water. If it was epoxy construction then I would go with them.They also say Kevlar in the hull,I've done allot of reading about the use of Kevlar in boat hulls and it seems its more gimmick then useful . Honeycomb cores need thick skins to be able to take the abuse,it also has to be applied properly.It doesn't say on the web site but it should be vacuum bagged on.

I would do a test on a spot that's not visable maybe the back or bottom.If its a light color your after then the repair area should be sanded with a fine grit paper.If you sand with a courser grit it will go darker.

What, only one rod?I couldn't imagine trying to switch lines everytime I wanted to make a different presentation.

Fire starter of some sort,rain coat, spot light,knife that can cut anchor rope in a hurry,BBQ,sunglass cleaner and a spare plug.

Maximizer is what its called,made by Minncota.These newer motors use much less power at low speeds. Another handy tool is a volt meter,cheap to buy they tell you what level your batteries at so you don't drain them too much.. I believe this is what kills deep cycle batts,take care of them and they will last.My last pair from Walmart are going on 5 years and are still strong.

amp/hrs is what I look at.Group 27 is about 100 -120, 31 is bigger but too big for a toon. More importantly is going to be the weight and what its sitting on and how the boat balances.A grp 27 is 55 lbs so you'll be a little stern heavy with the motor and anchor.Pending on your boat size. I believe the next smaller size deep cycle is still around 45lbs so no real savings. I have an older 30 motor, I can easily drain it in a day on the river and since your not suppose to go less then 50% charge a 27 doesn't really last that long.I know the newer motors use much less power at low speeds my 55 on the boat uses less power then my older 30

Honda makes a nice solar panel, works in the dark and can play music all night.

2 group 27 deep cycles hooked together should last you 4 nights.My wife and I have done it many times,this includes 2 short showers and the wife is allways running water for dishes.We would run the furnace for about a half an hour before we went to bed.

Disc brakes are very easy to replace ,rotors often are held on by the wheel nuts.New brake pads front about $50 new rotors are about $80.ea you should be able to find some thing on the net to guide you thought it.

Well i do have a parallel spot in the floor at about 50" long, trying to keep the rocker down in the bow but with a pointed stem the sides need some cupping along the bottom to reduce the rocker.Stern rocker will be gradual then turn sharply closer to the transom similar to what Hyde has.This should keep the boat higher in the water. Thanks for the help.

I've built a full size model of 17' drift boat,56" wide at the floor and a 76" beam at the oar locks.looks pretty darn big to me.This would be similar to Hyde's 16'10" model.Has anyone rowed the bigger boats?If so did you notice the extra weight/size? I've only rowed the 15' model so was wondering if there is a lot more effort required to row the 17' models.

Change your retrieve before you give up on your pattern.Loop knots also seam to give better movement.

Thanks guys,ya a removable knee lock will be added.Sitting and fishing works and is quite comfortable but you cant see the snags and drop offs. Another question, the boat above has plywood sides.This brings the cost down quite a bit +-$500.Boat will be a little heavier and maybe a little more up keep pending on finish(varnish/paint).Would this be a better option?With a lower price?

I'm having the same issue,seams after they changed it you only got a 15 day trial.Going to have to find something else I guess.

I asked a similar question on another forum, I'm about to start building another boat and I'm not quite sure which route to take.As this is a hobby of mine and can get a little exspencive so I have to sell what I build in order to recoupe the costs so I can build again.Good thing I don't have a lot of storage or I could end up broke with a garage full of boats. So my question,do I follow the road from my last build a 2 man river/lake boat that rows nice and is light enough to put in or take out without a launch.Costs using high teck foam infused with glass and epoxy can add up quick approx.$2000. After a season of use how much of my build cost do you think I will be able to recover?Is there much of a market for a boat like this? A pic.

Done.

Ya theres not much you need to do,you got 4 or 2 stroke?2 stroke I'd clean the gas out.4 stroke you can leave it awhile see how winter goes, I usually get a chance to get out a few more times before the end of the year.But with Police all effed up not sure that's gonna happen. Just give the bearing a shot of grease to get rid of any water,Outboards are self draining when you trim them all the way down and since theres no gear box theres nothing to do. If its 4 stroke you can dump the gas into your truck around Christmas if its been un used.Dump some fresh stuff in,start it for 30 seconds on a warm day and your good till March when we can get out again.

Having a jet now for 20 years this is what I do, First,I drink a beer then complain a little about the little nicks in the paint from split shot hitting it on bad casts.Take a little wax and buff the paint a little.While you have the cover off check the oil and look for any sign of leaks,if 2 stroke then just drink another beer.Secondly shoot some new grease into the output bearing and have a look at the intake while your down there,again complain about the dings that you see on the intake from floating into shallow water that you were suppose to be notified of because you cant see while you row.At this point I usually go pee,your mileage may vary.Lastly I put the cover back on and drink another beer. I think I covered it all,you may want to do it in a different order or what ever suits you.

If the old stuff was 100% silicon nothing else will stick to it.Clean with alcohol let dry and replace with 100% silicon.Make sure to check exp date on the new stuff.

You need a plumber or a HVAC friend!Find one,this will make it so cheap you wont need to borrow money.