Tungsten

sweet, thanks.

This is for a vacuum reservoir so ya it has to hold air. Jay can the tanks be seperated? maybe just a little too big at 15G

Looking for an air tank 5 gallon ish,maybe someone has a dead air compressor or even a large fire ext. thats no good anymore.

i'll miss the little guy,he was a great fishing dog.

haha ok ok its "zoo" bear proof.still not worth the dollars.

I didn't notice the locks,seams to make a difference.I didn't see the bear trying to crush it which they normally do.

Bear proof!! lol good one.

The 12 volt ones are only good while your motor is running.They'll just drain your battery otherwise. regular cooler, fill with frozen bottles and your good.yetis and the like are for extended trips where you have to keep meat and such. the thicker the cooler the better but then you need a hugh one just to get enough room.

I have an Ir4 ,not large arbor.its full with my 5 wt line on it. its my go to reel on my Z 5wt, balances perfict. And they can be had for under $300

Whats a tippet ring?

i really like a reel to free spool on the way in.really handy for streamer or cronie fishing. also for 300$ none of those reels would be on my list.

the river anchor works but you have to have alot of line out so the current can push the hooks down.Not a good thing with a drift boat.You'll start to swing back and forth then your in trouble.Weight is the answer,short rope less scope.

Back at it again cut out a dovetail joint in the foam to join another piece on. glued clamped then scrape off the excess. glassed the inside then some peelply on top to flatten out the bubbles its still bendable with the glass on. So after the foam floor cured i played with the model again getting the floor shape right then traced it onto the foam and cut it out.the peelply works good for the pencil lines. So after the floor was cut i returned to the model pieaces stiched one side on and lined up my laser level to trace a line to create a flat sheer. cut them out and put the model back together again. didn't quite get the sheer line flat but a little fine tuning and i'll have full size templates. i'll trace and cut them out then glass and stich it all together again,for the last time i hope.

no worries,been doing tests.got it figured out.

Well not much building going on,more testing and gathering of materials.Calgary is not a good town to build boat in,pretty much everthing has to be shipped to me. Since the object is to make it as light as possible the floor will be built from a high density foam.This requires a lot more glass then wood so i've been testing different weaves and weights too see what works best.impact tests have been impressive compaired to plywood so i think i'm on the right track. i've also built a full size model out of 1/8" hardboard to make sure its what i want. the sides are 24" high, once i get it all right i'll line up my laser line to shoot a straight line that i can trace then i'll cut the sides.when thats done i'll have full size templates. should move along quickly now that i have everthing.

where's the other half of the motor?

on a side note what is the rule about people on bikes,i always thought that if your on the bike your a car if your off then your a pedestrian. i often see people stop for a guy crossing the road and hes on the bike.i hate that.

the farther you cast out into the current the less chance you have of getting a nice drift. people often say a 6 wt rod is good for nymphing,yes if you want to cast to the middle of the river. i've found that say you cast a 3 weight your not gonna cast as far so you tend to focus on closer in water,your rig will be lighter and you'll get longer drag free drifts. remember a lot of fish are holding in water that you can easly wade in.

i guess if your arms cant reach the controls you'd have to spin the motor other wise you point the controls out in the lake so it pulls ya.this gives you better accsess to your stuff since the handel isnt in your way. moving your motor is easy just bolt on a piece of plywood that exstends over a bit then clamp the motor there. i can't comment on the stand up thing,sounds like you have it figured out. having the motor at the front or by your feet on a regular toon is just asking for trouble,this where most of your slack fly line will end up. motors always pull,better control, easy trolling and if you want to go real slow spin the motor around and put it in reverse.

it was posted already and i agree, why do you have to steer the motor??you have two flippers just angle them a little and you turn.the motor always pulls ya not push.you can also row while the motor is on so you can get over to Don quicker to ask him what hes using.same thing in the river steer with your flippers and fish with your hands. and for those of you that the motor gets in the way of the anchor just move the mount off to the side.the motor doesn't have to be in the center.

Still playing with models, I raked out the bow and stern panels more also changed the curve on the rocker front and back. i think this ones a winner .......maybe a little too high on the bow rocker but i like it.

A short gal,

New product i'm testing,helium infused plywood.You no cause all them dam jet boat wakes.

yes i picked up some also thanks for the heads up gaffer. scaled down some weight, each bottle is 250lbs and did a test float. Looks like just enough rocker on the transom, the bow end floor is just touching the water.i measured the draft in the middle was 1 1/8" so to scale about 6.75" Onto the sides,i had my plywood supplier cut a puzzle joint on each end of the ply with the cnc, this saved a ton of time cutting a scarph and trying to line them up.I whetted them out and then coated in some goo and they just dropped together.