Tungsten

Cool thanks,as long as its sticky and the foam is soft it should work.

This is a piece i did today,i glassed both sides of 1/4 meranti. if it works it will be the transom of the boat. My first perfict seal, no loss of vacuum in over an hour. if anyone knows where in town i can get this kind of 2 sided tape,i'd like to here from you.It has to be the foam kind.Thanks

So back at it again,summer is really not a good time to build a boat but oh well it will get done. i've cut out and glassed my sides,then applied some of the plastic film to help level it all out. After laying the glass on the floor which is the foam i realized just how easy it is to lay down too much resin.Solution,vacuum bagging.i ordered one from a shop in the US Joe woodworker is the site and it comes with all the necessary valves to control the amount of vacuum. The plastic pipe is a reservoir to hold extra vacuum but its a little small.i've since adapted a 20lb propane tank to store the vac and its working much better.This keeps the pump from running too much. So i've done some tests to get a feel for it. getting some good results. I can now move ahead so things should go a little quicker now.

Simple, its the dirt in the water rubbing the bottom of the boat.Since the boat goes slower then the current, the sand(dirt) is always going by the bottom. It even louder in an aluminum.

got what i need ,thanks for the offers.

sweet, thanks.

This is for a vacuum reservoir so ya it has to hold air. Jay can the tanks be seperated? maybe just a little too big at 15G

Looking for an air tank 5 gallon ish,maybe someone has a dead air compressor or even a large fire ext. thats no good anymore.

i'll miss the little guy,he was a great fishing dog.

haha ok ok its "zoo" bear proof.still not worth the dollars.

I didn't notice the locks,seams to make a difference.I didn't see the bear trying to crush it which they normally do.

Bear proof!! lol good one.

The 12 volt ones are only good while your motor is running.They'll just drain your battery otherwise. regular cooler, fill with frozen bottles and your good.yetis and the like are for extended trips where you have to keep meat and such. the thicker the cooler the better but then you need a hugh one just to get enough room.

I have an Ir4 ,not large arbor.its full with my 5 wt line on it. its my go to reel on my Z 5wt, balances perfict. And they can be had for under $300

Whats a tippet ring?

i really like a reel to free spool on the way in.really handy for streamer or cronie fishing. also for 300$ none of those reels would be on my list.

the river anchor works but you have to have alot of line out so the current can push the hooks down.Not a good thing with a drift boat.You'll start to swing back and forth then your in trouble.Weight is the answer,short rope less scope.

Back at it again cut out a dovetail joint in the foam to join another piece on. glued clamped then scrape off the excess. glassed the inside then some peelply on top to flatten out the bubbles its still bendable with the glass on. So after the foam floor cured i played with the model again getting the floor shape right then traced it onto the foam and cut it out.the peelply works good for the pencil lines. So after the floor was cut i returned to the model pieaces stiched one side on and lined up my laser level to trace a line to create a flat sheer. cut them out and put the model back together again. didn't quite get the sheer line flat but a little fine tuning and i'll have full size templates. i'll trace and cut them out then glass and stich it all together again,for the last time i hope.

no worries,been doing tests.got it figured out.

Well not much building going on,more testing and gathering of materials.Calgary is not a good town to build boat in,pretty much everthing has to be shipped to me. Since the object is to make it as light as possible the floor will be built from a high density foam.This requires a lot more glass then wood so i've been testing different weaves and weights too see what works best.impact tests have been impressive compaired to plywood so i think i'm on the right track. i've also built a full size model out of 1/8" hardboard to make sure its what i want. the sides are 24" high, once i get it all right i'll line up my laser line to shoot a straight line that i can trace then i'll cut the sides.when thats done i'll have full size templates. should move along quickly now that i have everthing.

where's the other half of the motor?

on a side note what is the rule about people on bikes,i always thought that if your on the bike your a car if your off then your a pedestrian. i often see people stop for a guy crossing the road and hes on the bike.i hate that.

the farther you cast out into the current the less chance you have of getting a nice drift. people often say a 6 wt rod is good for nymphing,yes if you want to cast to the middle of the river. i've found that say you cast a 3 weight your not gonna cast as far so you tend to focus on closer in water,your rig will be lighter and you'll get longer drag free drifts. remember a lot of fish are holding in water that you can easly wade in.

i guess if your arms cant reach the controls you'd have to spin the motor other wise you point the controls out in the lake so it pulls ya.this gives you better accsess to your stuff since the handel isnt in your way. moving your motor is easy just bolt on a piece of plywood that exstends over a bit then clamp the motor there. i can't comment on the stand up thing,sounds like you have it figured out. having the motor at the front or by your feet on a regular toon is just asking for trouble,this where most of your slack fly line will end up. motors always pull,better control, easy trolling and if you want to go real slow spin the motor around and put it in reverse.