Tungsten

One thing i found with 10 footers is there a lot heavier then the same rod in a 9 foot.Also you can drop one weight. if i were to buy a 10' again it would be one of the higher end rods so its just a little lighter in the hand.

LOL! I think its time for winter to take a hike already.

I googled wheel barrow and i got this ,http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/inte...ers-for-tundra/

lol,if you cut it on an angle you can push 8lb in.

Right on a boat build,i wish you the best of luck with this Andrew looking forward to the pic's. I'm also in the early stags of planing and building just waiting for old man winter to take a hike. I'm starting small first so i can get a hang of the epoxy FG and this stitch and glue thing.I was thinking drift pram also but more around the 9' range.I too am doing this with out plans so i may just send out some PM's Thanks for asking. This last weekend i built a jig to try a scarf joint.

Whats with all the 6and 7wts?You guys need some casting lessons sheesh! I like a fast 5 for heavy stuff 3s and 4s for the other stuff. With the proper tippet you can land fish with a 3wt just as fast as a 6wt.You just gotta pull a little.

A couple of things i would suggest, Lay down some screen or mesh all around the seating area before you attach the seat,this helps to catch anything you drop also makes storage a little better.On mine i extended it in front of the seat about a foot i have a bungee cord across the frame to hold it up.I like this better then the bib. For rivers you'll want flippers something thats easy to get in and out of with your wading boots on also you need some sort of safety strap around your ankle. Rod holder or holders are good ,one out the front and another for storage.The one in the front has to be low enough or high enough that it doesn't get in the way of the oars. Anchor is a must,for still water anything will do but for rivers you need something that will grab.My first anchor was just a lead ball maybe 7 lbs i found it wouldn't hold the boat even in 2' of water with little current.I always had to pull the boat up on the rocks and with flippers on it was a pain.Being able to drop anchor a couple of feet away from shore in 2 or so feet of water made it easier to get out of the boat walk back wards to shore then remove my flippers with out having to worry about the anchor slipping. Also for still waters you'll want a front anchor, nothing heavy but it will stop the boat from swing around i just use a 3lb ball attached to some rope that i tie off on the front of the frame. Those drink holders that attach to the underside of the seats work well also a place for your pliers and such. Enjoy your new ride,IMO other then having someone row for ya its the best way to fish the Bow.

One thing i thought was odd is the LX buzz real nice going out,but even louder when you reel them in.I always thought this was a little weird. The IR on the other hand has a very nice sound a little loud when there new but seams to smooth out as they age.

Don't they make some of these for Tundras?

Question for those of you who put the biots in the front of the stoneflys,how durable are they?I would think when they swing and you pull them in they would bend and break.

police to mac about 12 miles,mac to carseland about 11 miles.

I wonder if they do boat seats,

Most years by the middle of March you can float its the boat launches that will hold you back.Really depends on weather but i think this year it will be a little later for south of the city.In the city its good to go anytime if Glenmore is open, Policeman's is froze over a bit but if you had an inflatable its doable.

Gotta love the wake they leave in that shallow water. Thanks for that.

http://www.alaskancamper.com/mini.html

So why did you by a Tundra if you wanted a camper? 1100lbs wow not much at all,even the ones for ford rangers are too heavy.How does that make you feel?? The Tundra is meant to tow and it does it well,either get a trailer or get a truck meant for a camper. Oh and here i found one that will work for Tundras Just one more.. Whats the diff. between a wheel barrow and a Tundra?? Nothing ,They have the same payload cap.

Whoops edit that,120 amp/hr not 180.

Cheap staff = cheap prices,you want service go to a fly shop.

LOL forgot stuff for the tying room such as laptops stereos desks fancy chairs just to name a few. I don't disagree with you,I've spent my share.But i think its possible to be cheaper.

Ya theres the vise and other tools but if ones frugal with the materials like dollar store type items.Buy only what your gonna use,lets face it we all pay to much for stuff we don't need and just sits on the bench. I think allot depends on the fly.SJW's princes PT stones leetches......... and most drys can be made for less then what fly shops are charging now. I thinks it $2.50 ea If you stick to just the materials you need then its cheaper.Its when you start buying other materials and tools that you could do without is when it all goes out the window.

That was lame,i was expecting an epic battle and seeing some kinda motor run the reel.

I'd be going south across the boarder if i was to buy again Not sure what model your looking at but the one at the show looked clean,it was close to where Brain Chan was tyeing and he gave it a thumbs up for lake fishing Not sure if this is the boat i would be looking at if i was thinking of powering up rivers. Edit...I'll also add that boats that row well don't go up river very well.Boats that go up river dont row worth a *hit.Also any boat is good for lake fishing.

Hooks $4 for 25 =.16 ea beeds $7 for 25= .28 ea goose biots $5 for Oh say 300=.02 ea peacock hearl $5 for say 300=.o2 ea hackle $20 for say 200 =.10 ea thread $5 for say 100 flies =.05 total $.63 to tie a prince. Just guessing at costs but i should be close. Even if you add wire and glue its still under a buck each.

check out post#5 here

Carpet.