Tungsten

Cool!!Looking forward to seeing how this is done.

Thanks,the BB is nice it bends easy.But i have nothing to comparte it too since this is my first build.The BB is a little heavy though for 1/4" its .84lb per sq/ft.I think i'm at about 60lbs right now with the resin in.

I guess mother nature wants me to work on the boat instead of fish so back at it.I pulled the wires out and removed the bolts and spread some more epoxy over the seams. I got a little messy with spreading it so after it cured i sanded off the excess.Pre soaked the seams again with some straight resin. Next up is what they call filleting the seams, basically its resin mixed with fine saw dust to make a non sagging paste close to the consistency of peanut butter.I used a 1.75" round lid held at an angle to spread it out.This makes for a strong joint it also leaves a concave corner to help the fiber glass lay over the seams. I could have layed the FG tape right over the fillet once it started to harden a bit.I chose not to as it could have turned into big mess if i pushed to hard distorting the fillet.So since i let it cure i had to sand it a little. Next up is fiber glass over the seams,I'm using 2" and 4" 6oz tape.First the 2" then the 4" over top while its all still wet.It took 3 of us 2 hours with a couple of beer breaks in between. We then spread resin all over the bottom to water proof the wood. Next i"ll flip the boat over and work on the bottom.

$37.50 average wow, i would have thought more around $70.If you get a cart a few beers and a sandwich its $100.Never mind the lost balls.

Continuing on and cutting out the sides,again i changed what my plans said and reworked the arc of the sides. I then faired the edges to my lines the best i could then traced out the other side and cut it just a little bigger then the line.I followed along with a flush trimming router bit so that both my sides are identical. In order to help the sides line up with the bottom i ran a 45 Deg router bit to the inside edges of the sides,bottom and corners.I also pre soaked the end grain with some resin. Next it was time for some fiber glass, I've never done this before so i just jumped in and its really not that hard,i put some 4" glass over all my scarphs on both sides.Other then getting resin all over the place it worked out ok. After that all cured for a day i did a little sanding and drilled 3/32 holes along the the edges to accept the wires. Attaching a side. This is when you find out if the sides are the right length. The sides were ok but my bow and stern panals end up an inch to high so i removed them and cut them to the right hight. The bolts really help the edges stay aligned because of the rocker of the bottom they tend to want to slide. Once you get it all square and level and have matching sides,check and recheck. i tied in some wires to pull out the sides to keep things square. Next i mixed up some non sagging epoxy and with a popsical stick i glued between the stitches. After that cures I'll remove the wires and bolts,then epoxy the remainder of the seams.

Ya that would work better all though its hard to control the amount of squish out and still have to sand it flat and fill any dips.

Ya thats what i thought also,wasn't really a big deal as it only tinted the first 10' or so.I try to get greenish colored stuff now for my clear intermediate lines.

I wouldn't use red backing if i was loading it with a clear intermediate line, the color bleeds onto the line.No problems if your using a floater.

Woke up Sat am looked outside,guess I'm working on the boat with a foot of snow outside. Cranked the heat up to 70F in the garage and coated the scarfs with plain FG resin this helps seal off the end grain and gives the epoxy glue something to stick too. I let them sit for 8 hours then coated them with the epoxy glue ,lined them up so there flush to each other and added some weights.Remember to put plastic between the wood and the bench . I used plastic bags but i think something stiffer would work better as wrinkles formed in the epoxy that oozed out . I sanded it out and re-applied with a straight edge and filled in the dip from the scarf. I ordered some plans off the net but after looking at the sizes i think its a bit too narrow at the bow so I'm just winging it here and came up with my own design. Should have the sides cut out some time this week and be able to stitch some off this together this weekend.

Maybe a better option would be hip waders,all though you may have the same problem with leg size.You could also give Springbrook a call here in town as there able to make them.Not sure but worth a try.

One thing to remember is the action you get ,fast or slow.A fast 5 can feel stiffer then a soft 6 to some people.Myself if its not windy a slow-med 5wt with a double taper line(thx to Mikey from Southbow) is my most accurate rod.If its windy and i want to chuck some weight then a fast 5 is what i reach for.

May the love of those around you help you through the days ahead.

Well i managed to get a little shop time today between shoveling snow.A couple weeks back i managed to score some Sapele wood from a co worker, its reddish brown similar to mahogany very straight grain.This has a little oil on it. Most of the pieces i got were cut offs from wider boards so most have a taper but i can get 2"x 10' pieces from them.Some of them are a little smaller so a little time through the table saw to straighten them some biscuits to help keep them in line. some polyurethane glue and a bunch of clamps and i have some more 2.5"x10' pieces for gunnel's. I'll plain these down to hide the joint and store them elevated between two supports with some weight in the middle to start pre bending them for the inner and outer gunnel's.

I have the #2 hardener or intermediate temperature,it says a min. temp of 13c for curing.I should have maybe got the #1 it sets quicker and says it needs only 2c to cure. Cold or not ,next week I'm gluing.I was just trying to avoid having my garage furnace run full time.

Well if it would ever warm up outside i could continue with the epoxy.For some reason my wife said no to using the dining room table for the glue ups.

I bring bananas and i still out fish you. ofcourse i only have to catch one.

1 man and 5 rods or me and three women

And the most important rule is.... If you can't row you can't go.

Tip #123b tie wire or string to your plug and attach permanently to the transom of the boat. I have no idea why my post above has all the quotes but you get my point.

Ya kinda like that,however mine may look a little closer to this.

I've always wanted to try building one so these past few weeks I've been gathering materials, reading plans and so forth.Since this was gonna be my first build i thought i would try to keep it cheap.So this meant not using marine plywood, just to much$ for a first attempt.So i chose to use Baltic birch plywood, price was right very strong wood only thing is it comes 5'x5' so some scarfing was in order. First i ran a power plainer over it to remove some of the material .Then the jig runs with the grain 1/2" at a time 96 times i moved it. A little sanding to clean it up A little epoxy and some glass an I'll have 10' plywood. To be contiued....

You should be a little more descriptive so some of the other members can understand it. Also i think its X 2 since its been said once already. Tungsten- always willing to help.

Looks good Andrew, Correct me if i'm wrong.The Mackenzie style was made more for the whitewater,the skiff is more for slower rivers. I like the low sides and fat ends Lol.As you said it really is a pointless build. I just found a source for a whole box load of 8" C-clamps that i can borrow for a few days.Let me no when you need them I'll get them to ya.

Nice,fishing in my spot i see.No wonder i can't get anything when i'm there.LOL!

All of the above,i have a 8'6" 4wt, when i first got it i thought its too short but its now my fav for dry fly.Very accurate.