Tungsten

Pencil lines maybe? or guide lines,2" since I'm using 4" tape.Helps keep the tape straight when i lay it down.Or Maybe the fairing compound? The brownish stuff thats at the edge of the tape. Andrew I'm using the Pacific Sailor from IPP marine paint.Since this boat will be used mostly on lakes i went for the cheap paint.If i was too build something for the river i think i would spend the $ and go for the 2 part epoxy paints for the outside and the bottom.

Hours?You mean days lol! Working with epoxy resins is slow,it takes about an hour or so too apply it then at least 24 hours for it to cure. Yes the whole outside of the boat is glassed,2 layers on the seams.it really stiffens up the hull. Not sure what line you see,glass came in a 60" wide roll not enough to do it all in one,so theres pieces patched on the sides.Spent a lot of time fairing the overlap of the seams so there not so noticeable. This is mainly a lake boat so keels are needed,they also stiffin up the bottom.If i were building one for the river then ya i would have left them out.

Thats a face only a fisherman could love.

Finished off the glass on the out side. Machined up some keels and glued them down,i used up every available weight i had. Talked to an experienced boat builder who said it was really not imperative to glass over the keels,just a coat of resin was all that was needed.Makes sense,if i ever were to dent up the keel and puncture the glass water would seep in and cause rot problems so no glass it is. While i wait for the resin to dry on the keels i thought I'd move ahead to priming the sides. Soon to be test floated for bench and oar lock locations.

I edited in the lake only thing.

Which regulation is better? Alberta with the one rod 3 flies or BC with 2 rods and one fly on ea. as long as your solo in a boat on a lake. My self i like the BC rule, i find it keeps me a little busier. I seam to change flies often,cover more water.I can't say i've ever had a problem with too many double headers,if idid i guess i would just fish one rod then.

here

If you remove the old soffit then leave it out better venting, but i can't see it being rotten unless you had a roof leak.Most guys just cut holes in your old soffit (probably 1/4" ply) to aid in venting.You'll have to find out how your attic insulation is installed.In new homes there is no wood soffit just a piece of cardboard known as an insulation stop that goes between the trusses.There has to be a space for the air to flow properly.

If the old fascia is so rotten that it won't hold fasteners then replace it. In new home construction the fascia just goes over unprotected dimensional wood.

Yes.it does it all.

It really depends on what your comfort level is,are you OK with a boat thats a little tippy?You can get 10' boats with 32" wide floors that weigh around 70-80lb.If you want something a little more stable then it weighs more.I have been in a boat that had a 40" wide floor, that was about the limit for me.Any smaller and i didn't feel comfortable. I have a 10.5' with a 45" wide bottom, it weighs in at 150lb i can load it on my roof rack by myself and my wife and i are comfortable.I have no problem standing in it and i weigh 240lbs.

Thanks,i can't speak for all boats but for a small boat like this the more rocker or curve to the bottom the easier it is to row.Less rocker would make it more stable to stand in.

Thanks guys,don't worry theres flaws in my work. Back at it again, Filled the gaps with some resin and wood flour i used two putty knifes to make a trowel to leave me a square edge that could be rounded easily with a rasp. rounded out for the glass. Next some 4" tape. Tried my hand at fairing the edge,lets just say i wont be building any clear finish boats for awhile lol. Next i layed out the glass for the bottom i left it there over night so it would smooth out easier.I also put some tape on the boat for a guide to cut it after i wet it out. first coat of resin(epoxy) After about 2 hours i cut along the tape edge and removed the excess this leaves a nice edge. Next I'll patch in the pieces to completely cover the outside. Since i had some left over resin i did my net. to be continued..

Ah, its April fools not May fools.Your exactly 1 month late.None the less made me laugh.

Theres gotta be away to stop these polls from popping up just cause someone voted. :Hi jack:

Since its just practice and you want to make it easier for the kids i would just go with something 1-4'max. What ya also need is something like what they had at the expo, a tarp with 1" of water in it to cast into. Best of luck with your club.

Looks good.I ended up scarphing mine back 3.5" on the 1/4" Ended up with a 3" overlap (glue joint) Between the two of us were gonna start a boat building frenzy.LOL!

Back at it again over the long weekend,i finished up the rails all around and plugged up the screw holes.I took some scrap plywood and clamped it to the rails to make a jig for my router to carve out my corner blocks. Worked well, by clamping to the sides the angle was copied. I got this edge jig with my router when i got it years ago and said to myself I'll never use it as i normally just use bits with bearings on them already.Turns out it was real handy as it created a stop so i would get a straight edge. Did the same on the other side of the corner. Then i made a wider jig to do the center part or the flat area.This was a little too wide for my little router so had to break out the big plunge. The results. I was going to start the bench and other things but I'm still unsure on there size and location so i thought i may as well get started on the bottom. Sand grind sand grind...dremal tool is handy for this. More fillet and some tape and she'll be water tight.

Thanks some good tips there,just in time too.

Thanks Darrin,ya theres a lot more to go.

Well after going from store to store i finally found some stainless screws, $7 for a 100 not too bad.Thought they'd be more.Did some pre drilling then glued the first one in ,not too bad since it had been clamped to the boat to help bend it.Went to do the other one and crack!! Oh *hit.Long story short, clean glue off boat arg!!My own fault i had noticed a few dings on the edge of the wood i thought if i just sanded them out and put that side on the inside you wouldn't see it.I guess i was wrong.Since then I've managed to get both inner gunnel's in, one outer and both inner stern and bow rails.I've also glued in the corners. I see sanding in my future.

Ah great now i got that tune stuck in my head! this... will wash it out.

Well the glass is dry.Got home early today so jumped on to the gunnel's,bending the wood was a bitch even with having them pre bent.They gotta bend 5" in/out and 5" down i put screws in from the outside on the inner one and I've just clamped the outer I'll let them sit for a few days see if they stay. Not sure what to do about the corner blocks, 45 round Don't like round,I think this may be the winner i can use different types of wood this way.

Ya I'm learning as i go,i was wondering about wetting the glass first before laying it.You say it doesn't work well??For the tape that is. Ya cutting the edge when its green works well. I really didn't notice any fumes from the resin,not like polyurethane resin.I do have a vent though.