TerryH

You also might consider making a sandwich of two or three layers of the thin sheets. I do this for some foam fly patterns. Use one of the 3M spray on adhesives.

The wind varies a lot depending on where you are. Lundbrek, Pincher Creek, Fort Macleod -- look out. Inside the mountains, i.e. Blairmore and Coleman, I don't find it a problem at all. Terry

It's just in Toronto -- called the land transfer tax. I'm not aware of other jurisdictions in Ontario with a similar tax, but there could be some. The Toronto tax is part of the tax and spend legacy of Toronto's previous lefty pinko mayor. More info here: http://www.toronto.ca/taxes/mltt.htm

Following up on Gary's post about staying in Alberta, do what I did -- retire in the Crowsnest Pass. There's great fishing close by in every direction, both moving water and stillwater. If you want to sample some BC fishing, the Elk Valley is minutes away. It's a beautiful place to live with all the small town advantages -- i.e. people are friendly, no rush hours etc. and if you need an urban fix, Calgary is 2 hours away, and Lethbridge is 1.5 hours away. I've been here for going on eight years, and I'm loving it.

The city of Toronto has a real estate tax.

I've found these to be as durable as most flies. The extended body is tied on a strip of foam that is about 2mm x 2mm in cross-section. I thread it on a long beading needle (available at Michael's). With the needle held in the vise, I tie the thread on, do some wraps to get the taper I want, and then dub the body and wrap the ribbing (for the green drake I use yellow floss). Then it's whip finishing and lastly, pulling the tail fibbets through while taking the extended body off the needle. I usually tie up a bunch of the extended bodies before constructing the completed flies.

some green drakes

There are also some "shoe goo" type products that work well in certain fly tying applications. For example, I've used a product from Tana called Sport Gloo, which is very much like Aquaseal, but dries much more quickly and is much less expensive. I have not used it for copper johns, but I have used it when tying Jensen's Ultimate Boatmen, and it works very well.

There you go Don, I just bumped you up to a +2. Terry

WIN cards are good for 5 years. Obviously you should receive the card in the mail if everything goes as it should, but even if it doesn't show up, it is just the actual WIN number that you need when purchasing a fishing or hunting license, whether done online or at a fly shop. The WIN number is shown on your fishing license and on the receipt you would have received when buying or renewing your WIN card. If you didn't retain either, you can still go to a fly shop and have them do a WIN search. If the system finds a match between your birth date and either your telephone number or driver's license number (or whatever ID you used, i.e. passport or health care card), your WIN number will come up. There is no charge for this service.

I use one when I'm stillwater fishing with very small flies like chironomids. Trying to remove a small hook, especially on a big fish (I get one every now and then), is difficult simply because there's not much to grip. This tool pops the flie out quite easily. I doubt that' I'd ever bother dragging one around on rivers and creeks. I already have too much junk hanging off my vest. Terry

I've used a trekking pole, then the Springbrook multi-section pole with interior shock cord, and finally the Simms wading staff. The Simms is the absolute best. It folds into a compact unit that resides in a holster on your wading belt. It is attached to a retractor cable, and best of all, once extended, it is locked. The Springbrook model has all of that, but it does not lock when extended. Terry

Nice fish. Shoulda photoshopped out the secret fly though. Terry

Awesome. Thanks for posting. Terry

I have it on my 7wt Sage 99, which I use almost exclusively for chironomid/indicator fishing. As Rick says, it does shoot nicely, although given how I'm using it, distance is not a big deal. I've not tried the full blown shark skin so I can't compare, but I can say that with the textured line, you don't really notice the roughness after a while. Since the price premium is not that great, unlike for the shark skin, I think it is worth a try. Terry edit: mine is the nymphing indicator line

I assume the brookie was delivered to Taco's frying pan. Nice pics BTW.

I do it just the way they are packed at the factory -- Sages at least. The thickest sections (i.e. the bottom two sections) are alternated with the thinnest two (i.e. the top two sections) when you put them in the sock. The thick sections go in thin end first, the thinner sections go in fat end first. This accomplishes two things. You lessen the risk of breaking the thin sections, while there is minimal risk of breaking of breaking the thick sections. Also, you don't end up with all the biggest line guides at one end of the sock. Makes sense? Terry

Oxalic acid. Do a Google search and you'll find instructions for using it to remove rust stains on concrete.

Have a look at this thread: http://flyfishcalgary.com/board/index.php?...p;hl=transducer The photos on the above link are my old pontoon. I have a different system for holding the sonar head on my new toon -- as shown below. The wood base is bolted on the frame with a U-bolt. The sonar head is removable for storage in the saddle bag, along with the transducer and gell cell battery. Terry

I'll send you the coordinates. Nope. Although I have a pump, and have tried it the odd time without much success, I usually feel that I've harassed the fish enough by the time I get it in the net, and I just want to let it go.

Wouldn't leave shore without one. In addition to wanting to know the depth, I prefer fishing in spots where I see a screen like this. I'm not sure it's worth paying the premium for a portable, since it is a simple matter to set up a regular model sonar on a pontoon boat.

You must be tying them in your sleep too. I thought I had a pretty good Chirony box, but I can't match yours. Terry

I was pleased with the work I had done by "The Branch Manager." Terry

Ok NamasteMushroom, explain to me why it is necessary to wear a mask when protesting.

Good point. I used to use a swing arm overhead fluorescent lamp (the kind they used to use on drafting tables when drawings were actually done on paper). The lamp used 18" fluorescent tubes and full spectrum versions are available -- not cheap, but worth the money IMHO. Anyway, I don't have the swing room for the old lamp, so I now use one of the fold-down Ott lamps, and am quite happy with it. The only disadvantage of the Ott compared to my old system, is that it takes up desk top space, and can obscure your view. Terry