SilverDoctor

They work quite well on the Bow. The Czech Nymph technique is is a deadly one.

I have one and they're a good little bobbin. Like you said they don't unthread at all. I use it in my travel kit. it does come with and especially nice bobbin threader that you can store in the bobbin when not in use.

Never get a line burn on trout, but came back from my Steelhead trip with 2 burns on my hands. Once on a strip strike and another on on a loose line pickup during a strike. Get the odd burn fishing for piike on the fly in the spring. Thinking of getting one of those stripping finger covers for that .

Oops OK guys time to move again, he found us!!!!!! To bad you didn't get out this year, will you be able to sneek out this winter or spring? Well if nothing else you can catch up reading the postes here form day 1. Good to see you back again.

If you varnish or head cement floss it will change the color and texture. The less you handle floss the better. I always have floss on a bobbin. Less frays that way. Don't let it run through your fingers. For a nice smooth floss finish, after you finish winding the floss on burnish it with a perfectly smooth tool smooth like the side of your bobbin. Or a plastic pen barrel. It aligns the fibers and flattens them for a nice sheen. Give it a try.

For straight forward tying stuff go to one of the local fly shops. I only mail order specialty materials that I can't get locally. First of all you spend you money and keep the local shops in business. Second and more important you get to SEE the materials before buying. You can pick through and select the exact color and texture of tying materials you want.

I have a few in ceramic and stainless. I think it depends on the quality. I like the ceramic as I've never had a problem with them. A couple of my stainless have developed groves that nick thread and I've consigned em to wire and other materials. I have one that I saved by super gluing a glass bead on the end. I've used the Nor-Vice automatic bobbin for a few years now and really love them. No problems so far. Just started tying on a Nor-vice. and really love it.

Ouch they are dumb enough to do it too. Did I ever tell you about registering my Craftsman heat gun and soldering Gun? Never thought of trying to register the Peter Gunn salmon fly fly Hummm.... I wonder.....

You can also post it and get someone else to suggest a name. Did that with my Doc's October Caddis which Gregg named, but I received some great suggestions from the forum.

Hi Weedy, By control I mean is line control. The Spey style of casting allows you to change the direction of your cast in mid cast. It also allows you to thowe sinking tips and large streamers if needed. But I have done a lot of dry fly work with this rod using flies like skid bitches down to #20 BWO's. The double handed rod especially allows great line mending because of rod length. The rod I use on the bow is the Deer Creek 5 wt which is a great trouter. Not at all like a "mooching rod". Not even close. It is light and respondent fly rod. It's my big river rod and a 8 " trout keeps things interesting. If I fish small lakes and creeks I will use my 3 or 6 wt. single handed depending on the area. Most of the trout I seem to get interested are between 12" and 23". They all give me a great run on this rod.

Although I usually fold my hackle by hand or by running scissors along one side of the Hackle another way to do it is is really simple if you use the Joe Ayres foam block method. Start by getting a block of foam (the kind you find wrapped around computer equipment to protect it in shipping) about 3"x3"x10" long. Cut 1/2" deep slots in the foam -- you should be able to get about a dozen slots in a 10" piece of foam. To fold the hackle all you have to do is insert the feather's stem in the slot and the hackle is folded. You can do a whole bunch this way before tying. Simple and easy.

Good luck to you on your trip. Looking forward to your posts when you return.

I would be most grateful.

OK then I won't tell you you can lay out longer casts with less effort. Fish spots that you couldn't reach before. Fish in spots where there is zero room for back casts. And fish a style that is much easier on your shoulders and arm than single handed with requires less effort and that you can change of direction during a cast. I also better not tell you that it offers longer rod control for mending and double handed comfort. Playing fish takes on a whole new dimension. Gone is the feeling you don't have the control you need. With a Spey Rod you have leverage and power along with a suppleness that protects your tippets. Oops..... shouldn't have told you that. Please ignore the above.

I need to build a new station for a Nor-vice that I picked up. Boy the price of wood just soared again. Wanted some cherry ånd the one place I checked so far had it at $12 a board foot. Ouch.

We are lucky to even still get it in this country. You can't in any other. I'm getting low and am tempted to stock a larger amount for futures.

I've tied on Waddington's many times. Good for certain patterns.

I run Firefox at work and home. Microsoft no longer produces an explorer version for Mac. for the last couple of years. Just as well Firefox is better.

What size is that one?

Nice I'm sure it would work on Steelhead too

We had a running topic in the old forum with a lot of members including myself experimenting with different egg patterns. I tried yarn eggs of different size and color but did not have more than a minimum of luck.

I have a couple of binders of printouts. I have a couple of sketchbooks of pattern sketches and a diary. I also keep a "perfect" set of patterns of flies that I like in a dedicated fly box.

One more thin to a great description. After tying in the line to the shank of the hook hit it with a bit of glue. I like Salley's Hard as Nails. Should never come free. Use it on Intruders for Steelhead.

This one will certainly become a collectors Item.

I have it just forgot to mention it. Great read.