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Spey Rod


theiceman2

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Jahad,

 

the rod you purchased is a Loop design from 10 years ago that went out of production 4 years ago. Loop has been using ebay to clear out all discontinued items that were taking up space in their warehouse. These items are sold directly to the consumer at a large discount but come with no warranty. Not to discourage anybody from purchasing these itmes but please understand that you could get the newest version of the adventure (G3) for around $300 cdn in a 4 piece with full warranty. If anyone has any questions about Loop items(old and discounted or current) please do not hesitate to call me as I am always happy to help.

Brian Niska

1-888-822-3474

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Could do but the main purpose is for steelhead

 

 

Thanks for the link to ebay Jayhad, because i'm also intrested in picking up a spey for fishing lakes for big pike and walleye. l just looked and they dropped the price to a 100bucks a piece now. For that price l think l will grab two as well.

For this type of rod, can anyone suggest a set up for the line, l tend to fish for pike and walleye in the 10 to 15ft depth areas the majority of the time. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks

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couple of casts is all it took hey jk? Those loop sticks are a sick deal... Thinking about tossing big streamers for pike?

 

 

Could do but the main purpose is for steelhead

 

 

For sure... Yeah, kind of interested in the possibility. Whether it's realistic or not I don't know, but I did read somewhere that one could use such a setup on lakes (??) Any advice would be appreciated. The main reason being is it can be pretty tough to chuck an 8 wt single hander with a big streamer into a stiff wind. Loop sticks, you bet, got a 4 wt multi from Whistler a while back. Ordered on a Friday had it on Monday. Just in time for days off and a trip to the West Castle. Beauty rod.

 

Jayhad,

 

That is definitely on my agenda someday also. I'd give the left one to tangle with a few of those...

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You can fish stillwater with a spey rod. I tried it once and won't be doing it again, but then I think stillwater fly fishing is as much fun as watching paint dry. The main problem I found is that most spey casts rely on the current to wash your line downstream so that there isn't any slack before you begin the cast. There are ways around this, but it's just that much more effort. I suppose you could always overhead cast with it provided you have the back cast room.

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You can fish stillwater with a spey rod. I tried it once and won't be doing it again, but then I think stillwater fly fishing is as much fun as watching paint dry. The main problem I found is that most spey casts rely on the current to wash your line downstream so that there isn't any slack before you begin the cast. There are ways around this, but it's just that much more effort. I suppose you could always overhead cast with it provided you have the back cast room.

 

You could try overheading with a lighter line, but if you're down at Police Outpost with a strong wind, rollcasting is the way to go. :)

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I think stillwater fly fishing is as much fun as watching paint dry. The main problem I found is that most spey casts rely on the current to wash your line downstream so that there isn't any slack before you begin the cast.

 

 

 

I agree, but tying into a big pike is a pretty good time I can assure you... Other than that it doesn't hold alot of interest for me either. As for the current to take out the slack in the line, that's the problem I was wondering about and if it could be worked around in still water. Thanks for the advice. I am all ears..

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I agree, but tying into a big pike is a pretty good time I can assure you... Other than that it doesn't hold alot of interest for me either. As for the current to take out the slack in the line, that's the problem I was wondering about and if it could be worked around in still water. Thanks for the advice. I am all ears..

 

I must be a freak. Spey does not interest me in the least.

 

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I'm kinda curious about the whole spey game, how do you figure out the proper line for the fishing one would be doing? Also, what is the best way to decide on a length and weight of rod?

 

 

when first getting into the spey deal i found it overwhelming with teh lines rod length etc. i feel i have a pretty good idea on what its all aobut.. no well seasoned on teh salmon/steelie fishing but i haev don esome pike/ bully / trout fishing with all of my rods and i have figured this out so far... long line and mid belly lines were the traditional spey lines.. still around today but they were origanly designed too toss dryflies and traditional wets great distances... they work great if u want your fly too go far and swing down and across.. probably good for lakes with chronnies n whatnot too but u will halfto shake out a 50-80+ foot head before you recast.. scandi style shooting heads are basically a weight forward line in teh high 30 too low 40 foot range. they were designed too fish in close and if need be the caster wants more distance oyu shoot your line(like a wt forward line) the runing lines you can buy in 100feet typically and most lines that come with running lines are 80feet ish. there is also some mono running lines usually a flat beam(much ebtter for extra distance btu they do coil more specially in teh cold btu limpin them with a light stretch gets it out no prob)scandi lines i love for nymphing dryflies, emergers and small streamers BUT i find they do not turn over decent sized sink tips all that well nore do they cast larger flies well. that is were skagit come in. htey were developed by the western steelie/salmon fisherman too cast large sinktips and bigger bulky (oftern heavy) flies. skagit line usually come in teh low 30foot range and some compacts are in the high 20foot range. once again they are great for fishing in close and if you wish too fish further you shoot line (like a weight forward line) i personally figured i would be a longline and mid belly guy before i got into the game but since hten its all about the scandi lines and if needed (bully fishing, pike fishing, bigger sink tips, double streamer rigs etc.) i fish a skagit line that gives me the same functions(varied casting distances at will) as the scandi line but with some extra beef too fish bigger junk.. i feel both prettymuch cast equaly as well in teh wind u jstu need too throw a tighter loop(skill more than line desine)

 

as for what yall figure if it were for pike and other larger prey with larger flies i would say skagit lines are key! u can toss the bigger tips and larger flies no problemo, as for rods lengths n weights i feel 8wt or even a 7wt is fine for pike n eyes(they dotn take huge runs and oyu done need mega rods) a 8wt would be good for both steelie/most salmon and bully fishing with a skagit setup.. as for length i feel 11 1/2 foot too 12 1/2 foot would be great.. that will allow you too tuck into some tighter spots with less back casting room but a rod in the 12-13 foot range might be more prefered for better line mamagement at distance/line lifting power. as for your i feel a 6wt or 7wt is more than enough too deal with fish in the 20-30inch range no problemo... switch rods are also great for trout fishing! and if you plan on doing more of a nymph/skating dries/smaller streamer deal i would recommend a scandi line it has a softer presentation when hitting the water versus skagit but mainly because u dont has the big tip or larger flies on with also makes for a less subtle presentation...

 

hope that makes sence too yall and gordy, brian, pete or anyone else have anything too add or feel free too correct do so

 

 

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Spey rods are terrific for lakes, Rivers, tight shorelines, from boats or anywhere else one would go fishing with a rod and line... As for Spey casting on Stillwaters, Spey casts only require water to anchor the line to help load the rod, but the water does not need to be moving to achieve this.

World Speycasting distance championships are routinely held on casting ponds without moving water...

 

RDevonshire, the line weight recommendations for the current Loop Adventure G3 9132, is

31-36 grams, but I'm not sure for the older versions of the Adventure series, but are likely in the typical 9wt. grain window.

 

http://www.castawayflyfishingshop.com/page...dventure-g3.php

 

As for line systems to fish stillwaters at depths of 10'-15', full sink lines/shooting heads are one option to get deep and keep the fly in the zone when stripping etc. Rio AFS, Vision Ace, Loop Adapted, are a few of the popular name brands...You could also look at using Airflo Skagit Compact heads with custom cut sink tips or Rio's 24' DC Big boy sink tips.

Airflo...

http://www.rajeffsports.com/spey.php

Rio...

http://www.rioproducts.com/product.php?fmCategory=12

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Spey rods are terrific for lakes, Rivers, tight shorelines, from boats or anywhere else one would go fishing with a rod and line... As for Spey casting on Stillwaters, Spey casts only require water to anchor the line to help load the rod, but the water does not need to be moving to achieve this.

World Speycasting distance championships are routinely held on casting ponds without moving water...

 

RDevonshire, the line weight recommendations for the current Loop Adventure G3 9132, is

31-36 grams, but I'm not sure for the older versions of the Adventure series, but are likely in the typical 9wt. grain window.

 

http://www.castawayflyfishingshop.com/page...dventure-g3.php

 

As for line systems to fish stillwaters at depths of 10'-15', full sink shooting heads are one option to get deep and keep the fly in the zone when stripping etc. Rio AFS, Vision Ace, Loop Adapted, are a few of the popular name brands...You could also look at using Airflo Skagit Compact heads with custom cut sink tips or Rio's 24' DC Big boy sink tips.

Airflo...

http://www.rajeffsports.com/spey.php

Rio...

http://www.rioproducts.com/product.php?fmCategory=12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Very greatfull for the advice from you guys thanks a bunch takes the trial and error out of figuring this new hobbie out. Another question l have would it be recommended to get a reel thats two or three sizes bigger then rod? probably large arbour as well.

 

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the most important thing is having the rod lined properly. you could have the nicest/most expensive/best looking rod but if it doesnt have the right line on it it will cast like a pce of *hit. and rods from different companies with the same length and wt will have different flexes and cast differently. so a line that works for one 13' 8 wt might not work for another.most companies make good rods. a change of a few feet in head length makes a huge difference.

for newcomers it is highly recommended seeking help from someone who is qualified (certified all the better). someone that has been doing it for many years (not just 2.), and all year long. there is some good help here in town but their market is mainly single hand rods. not to make Brian Niska's (certified instructor)head get any bigger but he is very good matching lines to rods. that is what he does "full time" and for along time, and for a "good time".

 

a 13', 7 or 8 wt with a short belly line (scando or skagit) would be my recommendation for a beginner rod. with a couple of days instruction someone should be casting the full head, and proficiently enough to catch fish.

 

so seek help, qualified help, not just internet help.

 

PK

 

nothing against max or toolman or anyone else that tries to help. these guys have are keen, their knowledge has come from taking some casting lessons and learning about lines from qualified people, and spending some time on the water.

 

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Thought I would add that this Spey Casters Lounge has been helping new Spey casters getting started, for quite some time now...The collective experiences of all, has been very helpfull and has contributed greatly to the developement of our Spey Community. I encourage all Spey casters to share their experiences, knowledge and insights, whether they are certified instructors or they are just starting out...

Your comments can create good dialogue and increase everyones understanding of Two hand rods and Spey fishing.

Many thanks to everyone for their contributions and a warm welcome is extended to the newest members of our Spey community. We look forward to hearing about your Spey fishing adventures and will try and help you with your questions.

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So another question for ya Toolman, what would be a good reel to pick up? l've read a few posts and the general consent l think is to have a reel two times the size of rod?

 

The choices for reels have never been better and it is subject to line size/type, budget, personal style, rod/reel balance, application and how much running line/backing is needed. I use and like the Loop Classic 11/13 and Loop Opti Megaloop reels, which can easily handle all Spey line types/sizes, from 6wt. too 11wt and pretty much all Spey fishing applications/environments/conditions.

I also use and like the economical 10wt. Pfleuger Trion's for Spey lines 6wt. too 8wt. and 12wt. Pfleuger President reels, for spey lines up too 11wt. These low cost reels see a lot of abuse and are used for my winter rods/fishing and for guests.

There are many good reels available in all budgets and hopefully others will share what has been working for them.

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for newcomers it is highly recommended seeking help from someone who is qualified (certified all the better). someone that has been doing it for many years (not just 2.), and all year long. there is some good help here in town but their market is mainly single hand rods. not to make Brian Niska's (certified instructor)head get any bigger but he is very good matching lines to rods. that is what he does "full time" and for along time, and for a "good time".

I'll second this. When I bought my first DH rods I went with the internet lemmings here and had a really tough time getting past a certain point in my casting. I've since gotten three rod/line combos from Brian and line suggestions for another rod that I didn't even buy from him and they all cast great. Tell him what you're fishing for, where, and your skill level and he'll give you some great recommendations. Come here to get a few ideas, but get serious advice from someone like Brian. Also, after taking a clinic from Brian and Frankie my casting improved exponentially.

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How about a brief breakdown on the basics of the setup? The various types of heads (I've heard Skagit, Scandi, etc.) and the differences of each, as well as running lines, etc? I assume belly, etc is the same as with standard flylines? I was looking over Flyon's rig when he let me toss it, and made a few mental notes..

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How about a brief breakdown on the basics of the setup? The various types of heads (I've heard Skagit, Scandi, etc.) and the differences of each, as well as running lines, etc? I assume belly, etc is the same as with standard flylines? I was looking over Flyon's rig when he let me toss it, and made a few mental notes..

Here's a good place to start:

http://www.rioproducts.com/photos/file/Und...ines%202008.pdf

 

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RDevonshire, you may find this helpful. I did.

http://flyfishcalgary.com/board/index.php?...amp;#entry64676

in the end I checked out many reels and there are some fine peices of aluminum out there to be had. I would love to get a Loop Opti..... never seen one in person but they look so damn cool. I ended up getting a Loop Evotech 8/10 HD for a crazy deal. I originally budgetted $1500 for my Steelhead spey setup and now I am into it for only $375 for the rod and reel.

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RDevonshire, you may find this helpful. I did.

http://flyfishcalgary.com/board/index.php?...amp;#entry64676

in the end I checked out many reels and there are some fine peices of aluminum out there to be had. I would love to get a Loop Opti..... never seen one in person but they look so damn cool. I ended up getting a Loop Evotech 8/10 HD for a crazy deal. I originally budgetted $1500 for my Steelhead spey setup and now I am into it for only $375 for the rod and reel.

 

With all that mula you saved you should probably buy more fishin stuff!

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I ended up getting a Loop Evotech 8/10 HD for a crazy deal. I originally budgetted $1500 for my Steelhead spey setup and now I am into it for only $375 for the rod and reel.

 

 

I assume Max didn't blow the deal of the century? Nice...

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