SilverDoctor

Here is a great little fly of mine I have had luck with. I have a few Baetis nymph patterns that work really well but this is the one I use a lot. Named by Toolman. Doc's October Baetis Here's the pattern. HOOK: 16 - 18 THREAD: Uni-Thread flat olive TAIL: long Dun microfibettes (1.5 times body) BODY: olive thread RIB: Fine brass Wire WING CASE: Olive turkey bidot tied hump style (fuzz outward) THORAX: My own mix, brown and olive green mix dubbing with a bit antron glitter very spikey LEGS: Light Partridge white or dark barred tucked

Yep it's the Pflueger President model 2090. Lots of capacity. I've had a Windcutter 7/8 with 150 yards of backing on one, Ridge running line with 450 grain Rio head etc on it with 150 yards of backing and still plenty of elbow room on it. Lots of good reels out there mentioned before.

I normally "line in" when a drift boat comes to within about 4 cast lengths. Good time to study the water, have a tea and contemplate life. Remember a few minutes watching a boat drift by is still better than being at work. As far as other people go common sense and common courtesy should prevail even if it is not extended.

You might also have a look at the Pflueger President. I have been very happy with this reel and presently own two.

drooling over mine right now thank you.

Welcome and see you on the water.

Thanks for Posting Don, I've read about the process out of interest a number of times but it was neat to see it in pictures. Very enlightening. Confirms my previous belief that the closest I will get to "building" a bamboo rod is buying and wrapping a blank. Ha Ha. My hat is off to your for the pacience to produce your creations.

Mac... because it works.

Take lots of pictures so I can day dream.

Happy Birthday man. Have a great year on the water.

carefully fill em up with water inside, you will see where the leaks are on the outside.

Thanks all for the kind wishes.

I also have been tying them for many years. As you say off and on. The price of materials now a days slows me down. its the kind of tying I tend to do in stages. I have a Renzetti vice set up just for Atlantic's so I can walk away. They do take a fairly extreme amount of time to tie well. They tend to disappear off my vice after my son's and other relatives visit for some odd reason.

Sounds like a great plan!

Last time I tied a few dozen for this guy (he's in the US) He complained about wanting more tag. I usually do 4 to 5 depending on the fly. It's been hard to do his required 8. Had some "spoils" because of that. Bit of a pain.

In the middle of tying Blue charms to fill an order and for a swap I'm in. Love tying these great little hair wings. They where good to me, finding Seeelhead last fall.

I tie my own files because when I was 8 years old my Dad said to me, "I ain't buying any more of those expensive .25 cent flies, I'm buying you a vice" thus close to 50 years ago he started passing on a passion that has been dear to me all my life. I still tie occasionally on that vice.

Actually I like to tie them smaller and on tubes also.

I will have to regretfully relinquish my spot in the Sunday session. My @#*!! boss booked me that weekend. Very disappointing.

Was there two years ago. Wet flies: Blue Charm, Hairwing Onset, Atherton Squirreltail, Orange Charm, Minktail, Green Butt, Arndilly Fancy, Hairwing Highlander and Black Fitchtail. Dry Flies: Gray Wulff, White Wulff, Royal Wulff, Rat-faced McDougall and Hairwinged Black Gnat

Here you go, these are some Steelhead sized.

I'll try to give an reasonable description of underhand casting. It uses your bottom hand to supply most the imputes to the casting stroke. The steering of the rod during the cast is also made with your lower hand. the upper hand is more stationary. It was originally I believe a Scandinavia technique. The Rio Spey Video Has a great section on this technique and it's advantages. Basicly Most of the forward stroke power is applied by pulling the end of the rod in towards you. The ratio is 30% upper hand and 70% lower hand. The top hand is doing very little pushing and pulling of the top of the rod. The underhand stroke will flex more of the lower part of the rod, where most of the power is. It's is just how the power is applied to the rod. It's a great casting stroke for short heads. The casting stroke is also a great one if you have had tennis elbow problems like I had. I love it as it give controle to the "touch and go" stroke. Hope this rambling helps.

Shhhhhhhhhh........ Intruders work really well on the bow. You have to scale them down to trout size of course. I do mine as tubes mostly. Once I finish my tying commitments I need to work on some Bow sized ones. So many orders for Steelhead flies from my BC guys I haven't been able to tie for myself yet.

That is a great idea, thanks for posting.

Thanks for the insightful comments Don. The best I have heard in a long time. Through the years I've always played with line weights to the point of often cutting heads to achieve the right weight/length ratios. This tuning can result in exacting line rod matches. Often using a grain scale to keep the line weight right. You're right in saying that often times rods will perform with heavier or lighter lines than rated by the manufacturer. I love to experiment with lines, I've found that sometimes even two people with different casting styles will need different lines. So to as you mentioned other factors in the mix will include size and weight of flies. and also I might mention leader weight and length. Experimentation is the key. I've put together several graphite rod blanks for myself to to suit my own sensibilities and needs but have never looked at myself as a builder but rather as a "dresser" Just as I dress flies, I don't make the hooks. I hope to pick up another split cane by this fall to haunt northern waters. For those of you who have never fished bamboo, it has a life all it's own, a well built split cane rod has comes alive in the hand is a joy to the eye. I admire a nicely assembled rod... but building in bamboo as Don does is an artform. It is in my mind placed far above wrapping cork and silk around a tube. I tip my hat to you Don, for making rods with inner spirit. "A well-made split cane rod is a wonderfully sensitive instrument, a thing of beauty and value even apart from its performance." -Roderick Haig-Brown