SilverDoctor

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You could never get rich tying flies. You have to remember that the shop needs to mark up the product like every other product they sell to meet staff, rent and other overhead. not to mention the tax that the Government charges you. It's business. Next time you're in a shop check out the price of hooks and materials. Then factor in labor, equipment costs and overhead.

Don't have a vid camera, that's all I need I'd be posting vids all the time. Pretty simple tie really Long shank nymph hook #8 or # 10 or what you feel comfortable with. I use red thread to lay a base then lash the Micro Chenille down front and back I usually make a bit of a hump of it on the shank and that's it. Wire worms sink faster but the fish seem to hold these longer.

I usee I'm out of the norm here but although I do fish wire worms I do prefer Micro Chenille worms.

What time of year? my flies for the bow and small ca\reeks depending on which ones are diffident. Do you fish, nymphs or streamers or wet. Sorry for being nebulous but it makes a difference.

Be sure to have some Doc Spratley's

That's why I don't post as much as I did a few years ago. Posted a picture here of a beauty of a brown showing location. Caught her a couple of times. Found her dead and filleted on the bank a couple of days later. Not only fly fishermen read this forum. Mind you the older I get for me it's more about the fishing then the fish.

I'd go with $75 perhaps a bit more depending on the shop. I've tied commercially for a few shops over the years. If you're a fly shop it costs to keep your doors open now a days. The other thing is the price of hooks and materials which is really getting up there.

Pseudonym has some good points on indicator and fly position. Max has really hit it when he said look for a reason to strike. I always look for the slightest change in line position or indicator speed to strike, sometimes 10 times during a drift. You get so you try for almost a sixth sends in striking.

See the two handed workshop posted.

Bummer

yep

This is only my personal opinion I've seen more than one drift boat and raft shattered on the bow. Avoid high water. The way I look at it is what's our life worth. Whatever you do wear a PFD. take care

Cool looking set up. The rod has one broken tip and should be scarfed to repair it. As Don said it is a longer rod and not as collectible as some others but has a good name. The reel is by a good maker but unless the initials are from a famous personality it decreases the value of all items considerably. You mentioned rust. don't know how bad it is on the eyes. The Leonard rod should have a serial number I could look it up in my Leonard catalog, and a Leonard crest. also look for markings engraved on the metal butt parts. the leather case is cool as is the reel looks like a click prawl. the value has dropped on all collectibles over the recession with some great deals out there. If you can get it for a decent price it would make a nice collectible. I would certainly bite.

Don's a great bamboo builder, i'm sure he'd agree in the end its' condition, condition, condition. Things such as does it have its original two tips. Are the tips the right length (never broken). No damage delaming of bamboo or cracks, original sock and case good label and marking on the rod all go a long way to establish good value. How bad is the rust?

And on top of the great quality it's made by a Canadian company.

Here you go Tungsten I often use yellow or brown thread for this one. Dress the hook with thread to the curve of the shank. Take a clump of deer hair (half the size of a pencil) don't bother stacking but remove the guard fuzz. Slide the cut ends up the back of the shank so there is an even bunch top and bottomjust short of the eye of the hook. Bind the deer hair along the shank of the hook with loose wraps at first so it doesn't flair then tighten up the wraps. you should now have the deer hair flared out at the back of the shank. Take your thread wraps back to where the first tie off segment will be. Fold the deer hair forward and tie off the first segment. Continue up the shank tying off segments. Tie off the deer hair and cut off the excess. Tie in a short collar of Squirrel. Stack the squirrel first like you would deer hair. Take a slip of turkey or a partridge body feather. Wipe a bit of head cement on the feather and wipe it between you fingers. it will thin out the feather. tie it in at the head curving across the back no longer than the curve of the hook. Add antenna made of wood duck or other barred fibers (Optional). Hope the steps make sense.

Stunning pictures, wish I was there. thank your for posting.

I would love to see the pictures of the Leanord, could likely give you a general value. Really depends on condition. PM me if you like. H.L. Leonard Rod Company built some of the finest rods in the world. Good collectors item. You could also go to the Leonard Rod Company web site and to Clarks forum for more info.

Islander reels are great. I have the LX4. And it's an amazing reel that's stopped more than a few Steelhead and Salmon runs. The only other reel that is as good aquality is my old Hardy Marquis.

Just noticed that I was up to 999 on my last post. Yikes, this post turns over the clock. Just wanted to say this forum has been a great place to visit and chat.

The Duncon Loop is my favorite in a lot of situations. allows freedom of movement for nymphs and streamers. Don't use it on Dries though I like a tight knot on dries like the double turtle or Improved Clinch.

I loved those Iron Blue episodes, wish they would re run them. Have all his books and thoroughly enjoy them. Would love to get them in hard cover some day when I get a few bucks ahead.

The problem is more than likely UV damage than anything. I believe those tippet holders on the outside of your vest where put out by the tippet companies so you have to replace tippet spools. If you have one throw it away or use it for something else. Keep it stored in the dark. Even ends hanging out are no good. Try and experiment. tie a bit of tippet to our vest for a couple of weeks then compare it to material that has been stored in the dark.

I use silica gel packs in my materials box, have a few packs in there, it don't take much. Also have an old Vapona no pest strip, don't know if you can still buy them or not. It's worked great for keeping insects at bay.