gentlemang

I voted other. As many have mentioned, if there was scientific evidence that it would help the population, I am all for it. If there would not be effect on fish population either way then I would say leave it open.

Why don't you put in the post style seats, the ones you can remove or add at will, then put in the base brackets for all of your configurations and then add or remove seats to accomodate? Just might work for your use, just keep the posts short. Greg

Interesting article. Thanks for posting. Greg

Go Canada, Good luck over there. Greg

Sounds like an expensive and time consuming permit to get, If you started the process in January for that year you might actually get your permit by the end of the summer. Interesting though. Greg

Absolutely have. Have also refined my techniques a considerable amount since as well. Thanks Brian.

Just started this thread as a result of the questions on the Bow river reports. This year has been one of my most sucessful years of fishing the bow since I have been stomping the banks. Over the last 2 years I have been focused on nymphing techniques, reading some books and spending lots of time on the river. Here is what is working for me lately. The Setup: corky indicator, I have also used other types but I prefer this one. I typically use a 8lb tapered leader about 9' long The indicator mounted on the leader approximately 1 1/4 to 2 times the water depth above the first nymph. This all depends on how fast the water is. The faster the water the longer the space. Stonefly nymph seen in picture tied to the leader through the eye. with another piece of 6lb tippet tied to the back of the hook about 12 to 14" to a wire worm tied through the eye. Lately I have been using a little lighter wire worms because I have been fishing slower water and find that they are still effective in getting to the bottom, but result in less snags. I use the wire worm mostly for weight but do have days where the fish are liking them. I prefer the heaviest hook on the bottom of the rig, but typically catch the fish with the top hook. The Technique Most of the time that i spend is on the bank, not wading into the water. The coloured water of runoff allows you to fish really close to the shore without being seen by the trout. Keep your footfalls light, vibrations will also put the fish down. I am not a very stealthy guy but have learned that approach to the water is extremely important, more so when the water clears up and the fish start rising. I usually work upstream when nymphing, I find more success casting to water that I haven't walked/ stood by. I start with a cast upstream about 1 to 2' from the bank, approximately 15' of line at most. then flip the indicator upstream of the nymphs. For me this method really helps with having the nymphs travel naturally with the current and not be pulled down the river by the indicator. It is important that the bottom hook is bouncing along the bottom, but not sticking, If you find that it is sticking then adjust the indicator down the leader shortening the length between the indicator and top hook. As the rig flows down river I will flip the indicator back upstream once or twice during the float. Once the indicator has reached straight downstream then I usually just cast it back upstream a little further out (4 to 6") from the bank and allow it to flow downstream again. if the water gets much deeper I will stop and adjust the indicator up to increase the length, so that the worm is still bumping along the bottom. Ill continue this until I am casting out about 10' from the shore. The Hookset Trout love to eat, but i've found that they are not like a northern Pike where they attack the lure and it takes a pair of pliers to reach down thier throat to release the hook. I like to think of them as taste testers, take a little in thier mouth and then spit it out if they dont like it. So under this assumption there is very little time to set the hook and I find often that I have missed the fish by the time that I react. Watch the indicator and the line below the indicator, if either pauses in its travel downstream it could be the hooks on the bottom or better yet a fish tasting. Set the hook every time!!!!!!!!!! If it looks fishy set the hook!!!!!!! If it looks like the indicator nudged over to one side set the hook!!!!!!!! If you have a gut feeling that something happened below the surface Set the hook!!!!!!!!! Set the hook, Set the hook, Set the hook!!!! I do this by moving my rod sharply to the side downstream of the indicator, sometimes I just flip the indicator back upstream if there is nothing there or just pick the whole rig up and cast it back upstream for another float. More often than not Ill have set the hook on some type of twich in the indicator before the rig makes the full travel downstream. Ill cast 20 or 30 times from one position and then move upstream 5 or 10 feet and repeat. If it seems to me there is a fish there toying with me Ill cast the same spot several times. Hope this helps some of the new guys out there. Nymphing is not pretty, not elegant like dry fly fishing and to some it is not even considered true fly fishing. I don't care, it is what works for me in this cloudy water. Thanks Greg PS Rickr has done an excellent article called the Nymphing primer, worth a read.

I noticed in the Metro newspaper that over the long weekend there were 190 fines issued having to do with the fishing regulations. Including fishing without a licence and people in possesion over the limit. That sounds good to me, I wish that they had made a full page article with a big picture. Just found that interesting as there is a lot of talk about enforcement on this forum. Thanks Greg

Found it at Canadian Tire, in the general household cleaning stuff. Again it works great. Thats funny Taco. This should be a great week to get out the brush buster and clear cut the yard. Or fish.

I found this stuff called Iron Out. It is a household cleaner designed to remove rust stains from laundry. It worked great. Took out the stain in minutes. Would recommend for any tough rust stains. I didn't think that it was going to work, it was more of a hail mary play before I called in a company to take care of it. Thanks for the advise. Greg PS. I dont have a lawn to park on

Yes thank you for the info. Greg

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/5/Sp...d.jsp?locale=en How many bags of ice is $1000.00? Weedy you made me laugh. Thanks Greg

Just a question. If the quality stocks lae limits are reduced, are there going to be more poachers on other bodies of water, as result of them not beng able to take the fish home from these stocked waters? I am not opposed, but I question what will happen to the other fisheries a a result. As others have pointed out, we don't have the water that Manitoba has and a larger population. Increasing the amount of fishable waters makes sense to me, it would also increase the quality of the ones that we have now, by spreading out the angling pressure. Thanks Greg

To add an additional question to this thread. What would be the recommended best leses (brand) for prescription polarized sunglasses? Sorry not trying to hijack the thread, same subject. Greg

Bring streamers with you. Hopefully the water drops a bit for your visit. Right now the river is not good for someone to search on the banks for spots. If we don't get any rain between now and next week the level should drop enough that you could fish. Be careful of the banks some are collapsing, and don't bother wading there is a lot of debris moving in the water, stay on the shore. Greg

I have a coleman Extreme. It works pretty good. Need to use a fair amount of ice packs. The ice block made from a milk jug definately helps how long they last. My parents had one of the coleman classics that Rickr mentioned for about 20 years. that is still one of the better ones in my experience. Now available in Stainless steel. Greg

Great topic. Thanks from me. I truely enjoy my time spnt on this forum and like a few have mentioned, the information that I have come accross on this site has really helped my fishing. It has also allowed me to meet some great people. Thak you Greg

Great pictures, a good openner, hope the rest of the season treats you as well. Thanks for posting. Greg

Actually I have tried dynamite, made a mess but didn't get the stain out. Would Muriatic acid count as a heavy acid? I will try the coke and see what happens. Then try the Oxalic acid, which I understand is in wood bleach products. Thanks for all of the feedback. Greg

I will be doing that. however for the purpose of recommending a line to someone I don't think that it should be cracking like that so soon into the life of the line. Especially when other lines like Airflo have a 5 year warranty against cracks and my experience with the courtland has been much different. I have only retied the nail knot on the end of it once since I have owned the line and that was because the loop was looking a little frayed. I would have expected at least 2 seasons with the SA for the price that I paid for it before I had to start cutting it back. I stand by my statement that I don't recommend the line. Thanks Greg

Any one know of a way to get rust stains from pavement? I have an old car and it has caused a large rust stain on my driveway. So far I have tried, with little to no sucess the following CLR (didnt even touch it) baking soda, no effect simple green heavy duty cleaner, no effect vinegar (had some small effect) I am moving soon and need to get this off. Any suggestions would be appreciated. If you know of a company that can do it relatively cheap that would also work. I have scrubbed and scrubbed with a long handle brush so much that the bristles on the brush are now gone. Help Greg

Interesting discussion here. Any new comments for this old thread. Greg

I have a Scientific Anglers WF floating line. I have been using it for almost a year now. The end of the line has cracked about 2" from the loop at the end, and of course allows water inside so that it does not float properly any longer. Will have to get new line soon. To my dismay I did not keep the receipt so I can not send for warranty. I don't recommend this line. On my other rod that I use less frequently I have courtland classic 444. It has been on the rod for about 7 years. Still works like the day I put it on. There was a while that it was the only rod I used so it has seen a lot of water. I can definitely recommend that line. Greg

Hey troutfriend, great post. Thank you.

So now that the water levels hit a high and the river is being run clean of silt, didy and small trees. I see that some members feel it is a good thing for the fish population in a couple of years. Will this actually improve the fishing later this year? Or is it going to take a year or 2 to bounce back? Or is it just going to be another year on the river? I don't remember the water this high last year even with the city ban on the river. If there is a biologist lurking I wouldn't mind hearing an opinion from them. Just to clarify, the purpose of this thread is to make conversation for a few days to let the river calm down a bit. Weather looks like we are going to get a lot more rain early next week.