bulltrout

and you are calling me bad...lmfao

just need a recipe tango and you're in...12 in and it's only been three days...wicked...

more like a sponge...

who's that directed to?...if it's for me, i've reached my quota and then some...

lmao:D...to quote american pie "single malt, aged 18 years...the way i like it"...does that mean you're a MILF LS?... jks

the main point i had to get across with this question is why do we put emphasis on replicating the original (three tails on a mayfly or underwings on hoppers)?...if, according to the urinal theory, something comes across as looking like food, then it gets eaten...so why get precise on patterns if imitative patterns that represent the prevailing food item will work just as well...i don't think that fish count tails or wingcases as is demonstrated when they take a pattern that has a hook sticking out of it...hope that makes more sense...i'm not one for precise replicative fly patterns...to me they are meant to catch fishermen and not fish...

maybe in your case dave as i would already have eaten by 9...

what about the cons of fluoro rather than just the pros...aside from the obvious (price), i've heard that it doesn't break down over time like mono does...what happens if a rig ends up at the top of a tree?...

i wouldn't toss a fly like that...it wouldn't leave the shadow box...

i never specified what life stage for the midges so pupa, larva and even adults (aka griffith's gnats) are all welcome...and yes terry that pattern is fine

i mean specifically in regards to fluoro leaders vs. mono leaders...i usually only use tippet for droppers or lake fishing...

i know there's arguments for both but i wanna hear the debate...i'm partial to mono cuz i've been using it for years (that and fluoro costs a mint)...anyone wanna try to convince me to change??

have a good one big guy and try to lay off the b-day cake...

we all go to great lengths at some point in time to keep from spooking fish with a presentation...whether it be using fluorocarbon tippets, miniscule flies, realistic patterns, etc...the question i have is in regards to flies...in realistic flies, there are the exact number of wingcases, legs, tails, etc. (most people try to explain to me how picky fish only eat exact imitations)...now with that in mind, how does the fish NOT see that chunk of metal sticking out the ass of the fly and how does that not spook the fish??? there's my stupid question of the month...

i'm sorry to hear about your loss rick...but you shouldn't want to call him after every trip because he already knows about all the details...he'll be there with you for every trip, sitting and smiling on that rock behind you...

Simple Thread Midge Hook: TMC 2487BL #14-20 Thread: 6/0 (Color to suit...I use black, black and white (white thread rib), dark red, and as pictured, fluorescent red) *Tying Note : coat all the thread with a coat of Sally Hansen's Hard As Nails...

i know we've done this topic before in the old FFA forum but i wanna hit it again as it is that time of year where they are pretty much the only thing going on for the fishes...patterns in by Sunday, January 13 by 9:00 PM please... before we get going, i want to straighten a few things out as there have been some kuffuffles as of late...from here on out, these rules apply to all "contests" unless otherwise specified... 1) NO previously tied flies (and yes i will be checking EXIF data on entries - make sure your camera's date is set to the right day ...it's not fair for those who try to tie something up by the deadline to go against an archived image)... 2) functionality rather than looks counts (pretty flies can be found at the fly shops...i wanna see patterns that novices can tie and have work for them)... 3) try not to make these fun little challenges into pissing matches...the sole purpose of these "contests" is to inform, not for bragging rights...bragging rights come at the end of the season KOTV tourney... 4) please post fly recipes along with the photo... i'm not trying to be prickish, i just want these things to run smoothly and have everyone have a chance to post their patterns and maybe pick up a few new ones...thanks again for all those that have participated so far and i look forward to seeing some more cool stuff....

whatever the case may be in regards to the name, i still highly recommend this pattern and hope that some of the new tyers give it a go to add to their boxes...

i am actually currently awaiting my prototype as i have already put one together and sent it in to be laminated...

thanks for the comments guys...just figured i would toss it up for the new tyers as a reference... albanna...in regards to the classification of the G & H sedge vs. the Goddard, i always considered the one i tied to be a goddard caddis as the G & H sedge has an underbody of colored fur and the goddard doesn't...just what i was taught but i could be wrong...

26. The finished Goddard Caddis.

18. Select two appropriately sized hackle feathers, trim off the webbing, flare the hackles and strip about two inches of barbs off. 19. Tie hackles in as shown. 20. Move tying thread forward over the hackle tips evenly, building a smooth base over the tips, to approximately one eye length away from the eye of the hook. Make two figure eights inbetween the hackle tips to keep them splayed out from each other. 21. Place a small amount of head cement over the thread base you've just created and before it dries, wrap the first hackle forward keeping the wraps evenly spaced and tie off once you reach the thread. 22. Wrap the second hackle forward and tie off. 23. Pull antennae and hackle out of the way and create a small head under the antennae up to the eye of the hook (to keep the antennae tilted on an angle during drift). 24. Whip finish the head, trim the thread and any unruly hackle or body fibers out of the way. 25. Cement the head by applying to the base of the antennae and let it flow back into the hackle base.

8. Repeat Steps 3, 4, 5 and 7 until you have covered 2/3 of the shank with hair. 9. Make a couple of half hitches to tie off the thread and then clip the thread off. 10. Take the "furball" out of the vise and make sure all the hair is coming off the hook straight (sometimes the hair from the first bundle gets caught on the hook barb or point). 11. Grasp the hair on the top side of the fly and move your scissors so that they are in a straight line parallel to the hook shank on the bottom of the fly approximately the height of the eye away from the shank. 12. Trim in one smooth cut to the bend of the hook. 13. Hold the hook by the point and barb and trim the hair on the top of the fly upwards on angle to form a wedge shape when viewed from the side. 14. Hold the fly by the hair on one of the sides and make a tapered cut on each side (keep the crotch of the scissors in line with the eye of the hook and trim outwards on a slight angle). 15. Pinch the fly's wing (the part that extends past the bend of the hook) between your thumb and index finger and make two cuts at a right angle to each other in order to form the caddis' "tent-shaped" wing. 16. What the final trimmed product should resemble (a wedge with a slight "tented" look at the rear). If you are stage tying, tie all your flies to this point and then continue. 17. Reattach the thread directly in front of the hair.

the Goddard Caddis is by far my most favorite dry fly to use when fishing our Eastern Slopes for cutthroat, brook, brown and rainbow trout...occasionally, i have even caught bull trout using this pattern...this patterns rides high even in rough water and is quite durable when tied properly... here is a tutorial to try and simplify the tying of this fly...most people that i talk to in regards to tying this fly have the most trouble with the spinning of the hair and the trimming and shaping of the fly but, with a little practice, it's really quite simple... Goddard Caddis (originated by John Goddard as tied by Andrew Burla) Hook: TMC 100 or 100BL #10-16 Thread: 6/0 To Match Body Color Body: Natural, Olive or Black Deer Hair or Carabou Hackle: Grizzly or Furnace To Match Body Antennae: Hackle Tips 1. Attach thread to the hook at the front and lay a base of thread to the rear. 2. Clip a small amount of hair (about the width of the gap when pinching hair between fingers) and clean out underfur and short hairs. Also trim the tips of the hair (as their diameter is too small for spinning) leaving a hair bundle about 3/4" long. 3. Hold the hair bundle along the shank of the hook while you make TWO loose turns of thread around the hair to hold it in place. 4. Gently pull down on the thread with medium pressure (half the breaking point of the thread) and allow the hair to flare around the hook. After the hook has flared, wrap three or four more tight (almost breaking point) wraps through the hair. 5. Move the thread to just in front of the the flared out hair (make sure the thread is directly in line of where the hair ends). 6. Repeat Steps 3, 4 and 5 with another hair bundle of the same size. 7. Use a hair packer or else an empty Bic pen tube to pack the second group of hair back into the first.

see post in photo related topic from one week ago...