Chironomid Fishing - Tips and Advice

[Komp]

I've been in the Edson region for work for the last year or so and have been enjoying the ability to head out after work for a few hours to fish a few times each shift. I grew up in the area and I'm fairly well versed on stream fishing and productive spots. However, in the fall I started trying my luck at Miller's Lake (I don't think I'm hot spotting here, it is a fairly well known as a stocked, aerated lake) and was having a blast catching fish on backswimmers, streamers, etc. I did not grow up fly fishing lakes so this was all fairly new to me with mixed results but I'd like to continue the efforts this spring.

Chironomid fishing would be another new venture for me as I've never done it. I've been watching a few videos online and it seems like everyone has their own flavor on how to do it. At the risk of confusing myself more I guess I'm reaching out for some help and basic pointers on how to best approach this type of fishing for the spring season. If someone really wanted to be a hero and hop on a phone call with me for 5-10 mins to walk me through some recommendations, shoot me a DM. 

- Floating line vs Sinking line? 

- Strike indicators? - Is there a certain brand or style that works best? Is this dependent on season and how you are fishing?

- Depths? - Start at the bottom and work your way up? Start a meter deep and work your way down? Millers Lake isn't very deep and fish have been typically in less than 10ft of water in spring/fall.

- Leader/Tippet arrangements?

 

Open to any and all suggestions! I'll be experimenting as I go and will put in the work but if you folks can give me a rolling start it would be appreciated.

 

 

[Birddog]

Usually try to fish a foot or 2 off bottom. Floating line with tapered leader to a swivel then another 12 to 18 inches of line to chironomid u Der an indicator.  Key is to find depth and size of fly. 

[monger]

I have found the chironomids in AB tend not always to look like all the ones you see from BC. A good plan is to get a throat pump and learn how to use it so you can see what the bugs look like in the actual lake you are fishing. Color and size of the bug can be pretty important.

I just use a corkie indicator with a tooth pick. Always works.

Leaders....many use tapered leaders. I just tie on a piece of 15lb Maxima mono for 75% of my leader to a swivel. Then I will use 10 or 12lb Seaguar fluorocarbon to my flies. Use a non-slip loop knot to tie on flies.

Anchor you boat. Cast downwind or slightly across. Tiny strip every once and a while. Start near the bottom. Can use hemostats or homemade weight clip attached to fly to lower down and find water depth. Set indicator so fly 6-24" off bottom to start. As hatches progress some times it pays to move fly up the water column.

Use good quality hooks for bigger fish so the hooks don't bend open.

I don't use a full sink line unless the water is over 25ft deep

[PassRat]

I also prefer straight mono or fluorocarbon however much less diameter than 10-12 lb. nonetheless, 8-10 straight fluoro indicator and agree on toothpick style and get it out and twitch about once a minute. I find the fish are always cruising and will often take just after a twitch. Also use the “weight” method to determine depth and get the bug about a foot to 2 above bottom. Not sure about the swivel but might just try that

[BrianR]

The videos that you should be watching.Are those guys ,that started it all.Brian Chan,Phil Rowley.Things mentioned are what i do.But you can go witout an indicator also[naked & or dangling].Naked is generally ,dry line with long lines.Dangling is done primarily with a straight sink line & very short tippet[strong].Usally done in water depth deeper than say 25'.Knowing the depth of water,helps very much.Electronics or a simply attach .Your forceps to the hook & lower the line to the bottom.Taking note of the depth .Mark it,peg your indie.etc .Losa guys do very well fishing these bugs.Help is a pm away.IMO Jack Shaw is probably the guy that .put the works in play.But alas i don't think ,there there are any videos of him.There are lotsa video authrs out there.I just named 2 that i learned some of there teachings from.

[Komp]

This is good stuff....keep it coming, appreciate the insight! I'll keep watching more videos, only a couple more specific questions. 

Flies - Are you typically using single flies or two? How far apart? If two do you use the same pattern or try multiple?

Swivel Placement - Where is this typically located in relation to your indicator and fly? Assuming maybe 12" below the indicator to stay out of way of the flies?

 

 

 

 

 

[BrianR]

imho Most guys use too big a fly.Spring time ,always have a red butt.Bloodworm red or green.So bottom fly bloodworm,next may be a chromie with a red rib.12-14.Swivel adds weight.So my 2 fly set up in 15'0 Would Straight flourcarbon 10-12' corkie [phil rowley type],swivel.Then the rest would be split up for the depth top fly would be 10-16,then one at the very bottom.That swivel adds weigdjust tippet length to depthht ,but also acts to stop the loss of your corkie.So corkie 1st,then svivel.Adjust tippet to water depth.

Once you catch a fish &is  longer than 12".A very good tool ,is a throat sampler.Helps to identify the bugs that your fish ate.

Tight lines & sinking corkies.

[Sparkplug]

 

Lots of good advice above.  I'd add a second to Brian's comment about staying with smaller flies (12-16) early in the season, maybe a bit bigger later.

I usually fish two chiro's at a time, but honestly I'd say probably 90% of fish are on the lower fly.

Also, the "dangling" technique Brian mentions above is very useful when the water is roily - too much ripple or waves, and chiro's under an indicator are not overly effective (too much movement of the indicator, bobbing the flies - most natural chironomids don't move this much).  So "dangling", where you compensate a bit for your boat movement in the waves to minimize chiro movement can be very useful on windy days in particular.

Don't be afraid to try odd colors - my best chiro patterns have consistently been in UV purples and pinks (probably more of an attractor pattern than actual imitation).

[monger]

Swivel is just 2-3 feet above the fly.

I have found using mono for the first big section of leader is beneficial. If you start fishing more shallow and move your indicator toward you flies you will have more leader between your fly line and indicator. Fluorcarbon sinks and can affect your hook set if it sinks far enough. Mono works better.

I fish from a tube, no electronics. I mark my anchor rope at five foot intervals for determining depth

[Komp]

Appreciate all the tips!

Hoping for ice off in early May and I'll report back on my efforts.

 

Reid

[BowLurker]

10 hours ago, Komp said:

Appreciate all the tips!

Hoping for ice off in early May and I'll report back on my efforts.

 

Reid

I'd also watch a lot of the SFOTF.ca ( Sportfishing on the Fly) videos, most are on their YT channel. They feature the Chironomid Wizard, Brian Chan, quite regularly and the banter between Big Dale and Don Freschi along with Brian is always good for a laugh.  They have a ton of stillwater videos.

 

[mrspratley]

Brian R has clearly explained a very good set-up. Its what we use too. Nobody mentioned it but the last bit of line you have after installing a swivel to the end of the leader allows you to go from shallower down to 19-20 feet if necessary by just replacing the last section of line with a new length enabling you to go deeper. A bugger to cast, but in that depth you don't have to get it far from your tube/boat etc.