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Posted

Hey All, just started tying with Solarez UV resins, specifically as an epoxy head substitute and as a thin shine on the dirty worm. Used the Loon UV products last offseason, and I found that the epoxy heads kept peeling off. Just curious as I’m in the process of tying spring flies and I don’t want a couple dozen flies that I end up junking, how have you all found the product? Thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted

I haven't used Solarez, but I have had the same problem with Loon UV resin.  That said, what are you using for a light source?  I just picked up a better quality UV lamp this past week and it makes a world of difference.  Specifically, I found in the past that the outside was mostly hard, but still had a bit of tackiness to it and the underside of the resin didn't seem fully cured.  Now the tackiness is gone and the resin seems hard all the way through.  I need to see how the new flies actually perform, but its something to keep in mind.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

A good quality lamp helps also check your batteries they need to be top of the charge. I have a single lamp single bulb, but like my 21 light UV light better as it seems to cure faster. I have gone over to Solarez and do like it a lot. The thin and the thick. Certainly less tacky than other brands, but even with the thick I sometimes add thin over.

Just a note: the lights are UV.  and can damage skin and eye cells in a way that raises cancer risk. I've taken to slipping a pair of sunglasses on when curing.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just received my loon uv infinity light . Compared the light between my noname uv light and the infinity uv light , shined them both on the wall in a dark room . The infinity light was by far brighter . A thought came to me as i was shining both lights , uv light is supposed to be invisible to our eyes . What is the light I'm seeing  ? 

Posted

 I guess the only proper way to compare the two lights i have is to have a uv light meter .  Your idea of having sunglasses on when using the uv light is something i hadn't thought of , for safety i will be wearing a pair from now on .

Posted

The LED lights for resin fusing are 395nm. The visible spectrum that our eyes can see is 380-740nm, so the LED lights are barely into the UV (UVA)

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I havnt tryed loon uv res yet,but I found solar res is a great product. I cure the res with my uv light then put it in the natural sun for a full day before I use them. I have yet to have the res “peal off”. I use this method on the thin/thick and flex uv res.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I use Solarez, gave away  two 2 ounce bottles of Loon. Never ended up not sticky. Recently switched to a Solarez light, and retired my old Loon battery light. Seems to cure better with the new light, wonder if the wavelengths are slightly different. I know Solarez is targeted at 385 nm.

Also,  like the Solarez Bone Dry for head cement.

D

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I find if the threads are waxed from the factory, the Loon does flake off. With waxed threads, the Solarez seems to turn yellow, but it holds. Some of the Loon gets very yellow, and almost rubbery. For some reason, the red is very soft.

I’m sold on the Solarez thin for sure. If a UV laser is being used, the resin doesn’t seem to hold up as well, almost like it cures too quickly. It also smokes up like crazy!!. If I use the UV laser on the Loon, however, it seems to be bulletproof. Weird.

The Solarez instructions say to use a 3-step method with a ‘traditional’ UV light, ( 6” away for 5sec, rest, 3” away for 2sec…etc. ) but a long soak with light layers of resin has worked for me. I’m sure getting sensitive to the ‘ Loon stink ‘ however, so moving away from their non-water based products. 

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