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Nymph Rig With Indicator Setup


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I was on the Crowsnest last year with a guide but the day was cut short. He turned me on to nymph setup with a cork floating indicator that I'd like to try again, but I just didn't have the time with him to memorize the details. Does anyone know of a good how to online reference to get this setup?

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There are a couple really good discussions on this forum regarding Nymph setups.

 

Each person does have their own little tweeks they like which are neither right or wrong.

 

I would recommend searching around here a bit.

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Simplest advice I can give:

--use a thing-a-ma-bobber as indicator. It's indestructible, easily adjustable and floats well. I use white on the theory that it looks more like natural foam in the water (but that may be delusional)

--use a stout leader (3X or even 2X)

--tie on two or three nymphs. I tie the tippet for the droppers through the eye of the previous nymph, so that each nymph can wave about freely in the water

--use successively lighter tippet as you go down, so that if you hook your lowest fly on the riverbed, you are less likely to lose the entire rig

--space the nymphs over 12" apart, especially if one of them is large

--use split shot -- your rig MUST get down to the fish quickly -- spaced about 12"-18" above the uppermost fly

--use more split shot if all your nymphs are small, and less if the upper nymph is heavily weighted (a wire worm doesn't count as weighted, nor does a tiny bead on a little nymph, but a turd pattern with lead wire inside the chenille or a big stonefly with a large bead does count as weighted)

 

--set your bobber at 1-1.5 times the water's depth to the split shot

--you should touch bottom occasionally but not drag continuously -- adjust the bobber's height as needed

--you will lose a few flies

 

That's how to rig -- now your challenge is choosing the right flies and the right water. Good luck!

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Try nymphing without an indicator on Streams and Rivers, I don't use one unless Im fishing a real deep, slow pool. Use your floating Fly line as an indicator and your hands for feel, you would be surprised on how good you get at keeping up with your line and mending your line along with feeling/seeing the slightest take... Also after time you will get almost spidey like scenes, set the hook and fish on. Thats how I learned to Nymph. I really enjoy not using an Indie.

 

Cheers... Jeff..

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Thanks guys. Appreciate the full on recipe for a thing-a-ma-jig-rig and the yarn and the no indicator approach. Last year the guide was using a small cork and toothpick and it worked really well. I enjoyed the results and ease of use of a float indicator. I'm just not skilled enough to go without this at this point in my life. Just finished raising two kids and getting back in to fly fishing. My plan is to fish more and more now.

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WyomingGeorge - is your whole leader to the first fly in the heavy 2 or 3X?

 

And when you measure the one to one half depth is it from floating line to the weight or to the final fly?

 

I've been using pretty much the same rig but with a butt section from the floating line of thick 2 or 3x, and then another tapered leader of maybe 8-12 feet depending on depth, then the same progressive drop in tippet strength.

 

It can be a little unruly at times and sounds like your set-up May be more streamlined.

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When I'm dry fly fishin, Im dry fly fishin, when Im Nymphing, Im Nymphing... Im not into the Hopper Dropper, never even tried it, However, thats just me... :D ... Each to their own... So many set ups for so many certain people...

 

Cheers... Jeff...

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WyomingGeorge - is your whole leader to the first fly in the heavy 2 or 3X?

 

And when you measure the one to one half depth is it from floating line to the weight or to the final fly?

 

I've been using pretty much the same rig but with a butt section from the floating line of thick 2 or 3x, and then another tapered leader of maybe 8-12 feet depending on depth, then the same progressive drop in tippet strength.

 

It can be a little unruly at times and sounds like your set-up May be more streamlined.

 

I think I run a very similar set up.

 

IN-------------------------------SSx----------F1---------F2

Indicator--(1-1.5 water depth)---SplitShot-(Surgeons knot)--(30cm 2x-3x tippet)--FirstFly--(30 cm 3x-4x tippet)--SecondFly

 

I usually use a 2x tapered leader. I will use 2x tippet for big stone nymphs, but usually 3x for most of the year. Putting the split shot above the knot prevents the weight from dropping down. I usually tie on the second nymph with 1 size smaller tippet for 2 reasons. First, it turns over nicely. Secondly, the second fly is the break point. If the lower hook hangs up, you reduce the chances of losing both hooks.

 

I personally like to use a slightly lighter rig. I find that I catch more fish and it is easier to get a good float. The consequence is you need to make a longer cast---and we all know that longer casts do not catch more fish.. With a big stonefly nymph, I will often not use the split shot.

 

From indicator to bottom hook, it will be about 2x the depth of the water.

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this!

I've used this and had some success, but one thing I learned is to use a pretty heavy tippet on the upper fly that he "bloodknots" outward like a branch, because a light tippet winds itself around the leader every time you pick up to cast. I also tried using double surgeon knots with the idea of being able to simply change the upper fly in and out, but found it was just another place for the weight and lower fly to potentially entangle, and I'm already constantly tangling nymph rigs on trees, my hat, my waders, shirt, arm, backpack, water bottle, the line itself, pride, ................................!

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Bmck: you are most welcome. To answer your question: the 1-1.5X setting is as measured by the distance from indicator to split shot.

 

I agree with scel's remarks.

 

It's also very true that lighter leader/tippet will sink faster and let the flies drift more naturally.

 

My choice of rig is a result of compromises, i.e., sacrificing some realism (and probably hookups) for a more robust setup that means fewer lost flies and more control of the fish, i.e., fewer fish going away with flies or having to be played for a very long time.

 

This is definitely a burly, Bow River-style rig. On small streams, where I want more delicacy and where I can retrieve snagged flies without yanking them, I will nymph with 3X or 4X leader, and sometimes even have 5X tippet to the lowest nymph. But not on the Bow.

 

For sure, when fishing three nymphs, the biggest is at the top, and the smallest at the bottom.

 

Another thing I've talked about in the past is that under certain conditions, I'll go "all small", i.e,. not using a stone, worm or other large nymph at all, but three flies in the range of 16-20. There seem to be times when the large nymphs not only don't get eaten, but cause the fish to shy away from the small ones.

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Beedhead has hit the nail on the head! I also learned to nymph without an indicator (more years ago than I care to remember) and in my opinion it is by far the best way to learn. You won't go wrong if you take Jeff's good advice!

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From the fly line --> 4-5ft Maxima 8lb to a swivel --> 6lb Maxima to first fly --> 4lb Maxima the second fly --> 3lb Maxima to bottom fly

 

- Then you can either attach split shot above the swivel to prevent it from sliding down or use a drop shot below your bottom fly.

 

- I like to attach the 6,4,3 lb lines with surgeons knots leaving 4-6 inches of the tag end on each knot to attach my flies to so they have a more natural drift. More time consuming but worth it.

 

- I fish Maxima exclusively when nymphing on the Bow because the fish in the Bow warrant it and I don't like losing flies.

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Right on man, I really like hookin up on a Trout with no indie, while nymphing, mending, figuring and depths, ect.... Sure, Id rather have top water action this time of year, but hey, If they ain't lookin up, I guess, ya gotta do what ya gotta do......

 

 

Cheers... Jeff...

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