Guest 420FLYFISHIN Posted May 4, 2011 Posted May 4, 2011 amazing build, cant wait to see you on the water Quote
Tungsten Posted May 4, 2011 Author Posted May 4, 2011 Wow, this is an awesome build. I do have a question, what would be the benefits/disadvantages between the different style of boats that ive seen people use on lakes and the bow. Thanks,i can't speak for all boats but for a small boat like this the more rocker or curve to the bottom the easier it is to row.Less rocker would make it more stable to stand in. Quote
Gaffer Posted May 4, 2011 Posted May 4, 2011 Thanks,i can't speak for all boats but for a small boat like this the more rocker or curve to the bottom the easier it is to row.Less rocker would make it more stable to stand in. Looking good. What did you use as your laminating resin? Silver Tip? As for the topic of boat syles, that is a topic that one could right volumes on, and people talk about in length on boat specific forums. A lot of it boils down to what what you want to do with the boat. Will you have one or 2 anglers? Will you want it to be for overnight trips? etc. There are many people who are happy with thier low profile drifter boats from a company like Hyde or Clackacraft, but there are new options like skiffs that will likely be popular options on the Bow. Andrew Quote
Tungsten Posted May 5, 2011 Author Posted May 5, 2011 Looking good. What did you use as your laminating resin? Silver Tip? Yes.it does it all. Quote
Castuserraticus Posted May 5, 2011 Posted May 5, 2011 Thanks,i can't speak for all boats but for a small boat like this the more rocker or curve to the bottom the easier it is to row.Less rocker would make it more stable to stand in. A boat with lots of rocker will be more maneuverable but slower. When loaded up it will sit deeper in the water making it even slower - especially with no V. The biggest effect will be felt with rowing out and back to a spot on a lake or crossing the river. A boat with a long straight keel line will track better and be faster and easier to row but difficult to turn. Think about a sea/touring kayak vs a whitewater kayak. Stability is determined by the width of hull in the water for a given length as well as the shape to a certain degree. A flatter hull is more stable. There is no one hull that works in both whitewater and still water. Quote
Tungsten Posted May 11, 2011 Author Posted May 11, 2011 Finished off the glass on the out side. Machined up some keels and glued them down,i used up every available weight i had. Talked to an experienced boat builder who said it was really not imperative to glass over the keels,just a coat of resin was all that was needed.Makes sense,if i ever were to dent up the keel and puncture the glass water would seep in and cause rot problems so no glass it is. While i wait for the resin to dry on the keels i thought I'd move ahead to priming the sides. Soon to be test floated for bench and oar lock locations. Quote
PeteZahut Posted May 12, 2011 Posted May 12, 2011 Wow, this is such a great thread. keep it coming, it looks outstanding. Quote
SamIam Posted May 12, 2011 Posted May 12, 2011 Tungsten, If that is your first one, you are doing a great job. Seems like you are doing it very efficiently with a minimum number of hours too. Are you keeping track of how many hours it is taking you? Did you put glass over the entire bottom? If so, what is that line about 4" from the chines around the bottom? Also, did you think about not putting keels on at all? I could see those being kind of annoying in a shallow riffle on a river. Although nice on stillwater. Quote
dutchie Posted May 12, 2011 Posted May 12, 2011 mike can't believe i missed all this , good topic , i'm going to start calling you '' Tim the tool-man '' lots of work you have into it , will make you enjoy it that much more , slap on your 60/40 merc and she'll go like a bat out of hell Quote
Gaffer Posted May 12, 2011 Posted May 12, 2011 Mike, That is awesome. I will give you my address and you can come finish mine when you are done. Andrew Quote
Tungsten Posted May 12, 2011 Author Posted May 12, 2011 Tungsten, If that is your first one, you are doing a great job. Seems like you are doing it very efficiently with a minimum number of hours too. Are you keeping track of how many hours it is taking you? Did you put glass over the entire bottom? If so, what is that line about 4" from the chines around the bottom? Also, did you think about not putting keels on at all? I could see those being kind of annoying in a shallow riffle on a river. Although nice on stillwater. Hours?You mean days lol! Working with epoxy resins is slow,it takes about an hour or so too apply it then at least 24 hours for it to cure. Yes the whole outside of the boat is glassed,2 layers on the seams.it really stiffens up the hull. Not sure what line you see,glass came in a 60" wide roll not enough to do it all in one,so theres pieces patched on the sides.Spent a lot of time fairing the overlap of the seams so there not so noticeable. This is mainly a lake boat so keels are needed,they also stiffin up the bottom.If i were building one for the river then ya i would have left them out. Quote
Gaffer Posted May 12, 2011 Posted May 12, 2011 I think he may be talking about this line here What paint are you using for the outside? I am going to paint part of the outside of my hull, did you get it locally? Andrew Quote
SamIam Posted May 12, 2011 Posted May 12, 2011 I think he may be talking about this line here What paint are you using for the outside? I am going to paint part of the outside of my hull, did you get it locally? Andrew No, not the tape...the line that is on the bottom, right by the scissors. You can see it better in some of the other shots. Quote
Tungsten Posted May 12, 2011 Author Posted May 12, 2011 Pencil lines maybe? or guide lines,2" since I'm using 4" tape.Helps keep the tape straight when i lay it down.Or Maybe the fairing compound? The brownish stuff thats at the edge of the tape. Andrew I'm using the Pacific Sailor from IPP marine paint.Since this boat will be used mostly on lakes i went for the cheap paint.If i was too build something for the river i think i would spend the $ and go for the 2 part epoxy paints for the outside and the bottom. Quote
darrinhurst Posted May 12, 2011 Posted May 12, 2011 Not a bad lookin rig Mike! Might look better if you knew what you were doing...... Quote
Tungsten Posted May 16, 2011 Author Posted May 16, 2011 You no the little color charts they have at paint stores? They really aren't big enough.It looked good in the store at least i thought it did. Kinda 70's harvest gold.I was shooting for gravel road dust color.Guess i missed. Had the paint store add brown and white tint to it. Flipped it back over and started with some of the interior. I was thinking of a stern box for the battery but realized the battery box's are just to big,or the box I'd have to build would have to be quite large. I was thinking just some floor blocks and i could strap it down.Or i can build a bigger stern box and not use the plastic battery case. My center bench will just be rails for a seat support so no room there for the battery. What do some of you guys have/use?I'll end up using about 16"-18" of floor space to make a stern box thats big enough so the battery can be easily installed/removed. Is it worth the space loss to have a rear box? Quote
bigbowtrout Posted May 16, 2011 Posted May 16, 2011 From the photos the colour looks great. Awesome job!!!!!!!!! Quote
Tungsten Posted May 16, 2011 Author Posted May 16, 2011 New center bench idea and battery box location. Looks comfortable.LOL! Quote
Tungsten Posted May 16, 2011 Author Posted May 16, 2011 From the photos the colour looks great. Awesome job!!!!!!!!! Ya its definitely a one off color.After a few scratches with some of the other color showing it will be interesting. Quote
darrinhurst Posted May 16, 2011 Posted May 16, 2011 Can't wait for your first report on it's maiden voyage! Slick work Mike! Quote
Tungsten Posted June 21, 2011 Author Posted June 21, 2011 Sorry I've been fishing,working bla bla. Managed to get out for a test on Glenmore. Rowed real nice, easy to stand in.At one point i had a big rock at the stern to be my battery and motor.Only had to move the seat a few inches and it was good. So this is how my bench supports will look. They'll be sealed up glued and taped to the boat.This will give me about 10" of adjustment.I think the oar locks will be permanent. Quote
ÜberFly Posted June 22, 2011 Posted June 22, 2011 Hey Mike, Looks great! Though I had to chuckle seeing you in a PFD (not for city ordinance/DFO/DOT reasons, but for the "just in case" scenario!)! Why don't you have 3 different positions for the oar locks (like many drift boats do)... That way depending on your load (or arm length of the rower) you can adjust accordingly... Though you would have to be able to move the seat forward or back, I guess, as well... P Quote
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