headscan

I don't know if one brand is better than another. Being an Apple guy I use an Airport Extreme and I'm happy with it. In terms of speed, there are a few protocols for wireless - 802.11, 802.11a, 802.11b, 802.11g, and 802.11n. The 802.11n protocol is the newest so go for that if you can. 802.11 is the oldest and slowest and I don't even think that anyone still sells units using that one. Of course, one thing a lot of people don't realize with wireless is that a wireless network is only as fast as the slowest adapter on the network. So if you have a bunch of 802.11n connections and one 802.11a connection, the whole network slows down to the 802.11a speed.

If you run wireless with encryption (which you should if other computers use the wireless connection) then you might experience some lag during online gaming as each packet going between the Wii and the wireless access point has to be encrypted then decrypted. If you have the ability to use a direct wire connection then that'll eliminate the problem. I'm not aware of any widespread viruses that affect the Wii.

That's such a stupid rule. My condo board has the same one but I've had my 42lb dog here for 4 years now and nobody has complained. Better to have a 40lb quiet dog than a yappy 10lb one in the building. Sorry about the slight rant. Great looking pup.

I think something that everyone forgot about is consumer perception. I once read about a study where they took a product that had all the same features as the average products in that space. They then priced it significantly lower than the other products in the space and brought in a focus group (just like real manufacturers do before they release a new product to market). The focus group was shown the comparable products and preferred them over the similar but lower priced product because they perceived they were better because of the higher price. They then took a different focus group and showed them the exact same product spread but this time set the price on theirs higher than the rest. Guess which product this group preferred? At the end of the day, buy what you want. If you prefer to buy lower priced stuff that does what you want it to, then great. If you don't mind spending a little more for the perception of having something that will work better, it's your money so spend it how you like. Personally, I don't have many other hobbies outside of fly fishing and tying so I have no issues spending more money on the gear I want. While I'm out on the river I'm perfectly happy in my expensive Simms waders casting my $1000 fly rod with the $700 reel. Do I catch more fish than people with less expensive gear with less markup? Maybe, maybe not but I'm still happy and enjoying myself. It's called capitalism and the invisible hand of the market and a bunch of other stuff from ECON 201 that I've forgotten. If you don't want markup move to the Soviet Union. Oh wait, I mean China. Oh, they're capitalists now too? Umm, how about Cuba then?

Yes, they most likely did. They probably recoup some of that through tax write offs and the rest is probably made up with increased sales of the newly released line. The reason given to me by a fly shop owner for rod manufacturers discontinuing a line and introducing an only slightly revised version every few years is to get them reviewed in magazines. The mags don't tend to write reviews of gear that has already been out for a while. When the new line of rods comes out there's always going to be an initial rush of bleeding edge upgraders (same thing happens in the computer and electronics industries - just ask Apple) who cause an initial sales spike. When sales taper off, it's time to discontinue that line and introduce the new one, get it reviewed in the mags, then watch the sales jump up again.

Doesn't volume figure into the equation? There are far more of each model of Remington made each year than Sage rods. Probably more than every fly rod manufacturer combined. Plus you're looking at lots of sweet gov't contracts since Remingtons are probably used by various police and military around the world.

Wait, are we talking about going to classified waters for limiting rods on the water and forcing non-residents to pay more (my understanding) or conservation and enforcement?

Taking a lesson through one of the shops in town or someone like the McLennans (Lynda also teaches) is probably the best way to go. If you learn from a friend who has bad casting habits, then you'll probably pick those up as well. If you want to give it a try with friends before investing in a lesson, start out casting on the grass in an open field with wool at the end of your leader instead of a fly. That way you're only concentrating on the casting technique and not fish or getting caught in trees and other obstacles (or putting a hook in yourself). Then move onto the water, but still using wool instead of a fly until you get the basic casting mechanics down. Tough to resist getting out and fishing right away, but it's easier to learn the right way now than break bad casting habits later on.

Nope. Unless you can show me empirical evidence that the fish are being affected by the number of anglers on a specific piece of water then there's no need. If it's based on the perception of overcrowding then you're proposing something no different than the much despised Skeena angling management plan.

Having decent flex in the tip of your rod helps protect light tippet, so if the missing 1.5' was where most of the tip flex was that could be a part of the problem. Your tippet mono might also have degraded. Pull some off the spool and see how easily it breaks. Sometimes even a spool of mono you just bought a few months ago might have been sitting in the shop for a long time. If they're breaking off because you still have the line pinched down with your finger when they start to run, the only thing to do is work on improving your reaction time.

Fish were all landed quickly and the hooks were obviously debarbed from what I saw. More than I can say about some fly fishermen I've seen. Also, I know lots of guys who both fly fish and use gear.

An American with Alberta plates fishing in BC? You're lucky they didn't flat out arrest you.

It's like deja vu all over again. http://flyfishcalgary.com/board/index.php?showtopic=9051 http://flyfishcalgary.com/board/index.php?showtopic=9381

The sign I saw at the Burnsmead parking lot didn't say anything about it being relocated, just that there would be a settling pond there and explaining what that meant. Not a bad thing to have them, I was just surprised that it hadn't come up here before since that's a bit of a popular spot.

Seems that the Burnsmead parking lot area is going to be turned into a settling pond according to a sign on the pathway. Haven't been able to turn anything about it up in a search (here and google). Anyone have more info?

Yup. And I have enough trouble picking out my PMD 15' away let alone two-handed rod casting distances...

I find spey casting drowns my dry flies. I've been single hand spey casting when nymphing, but otherwise haven't picked up my double handers in a few months. Once fall rolls around I'll dust them off.

Actually we were planning on loading it up with yellow golf balls and scattering them around the river.

Last night I bought a Rio Grand as a general purpose line to go on my Loop 5wt. I think it's pretty similar to the GPX as far as being a half size heavier and both have the same head lengths. I've fished the GPX before and thought it was also a great general purpose line. To me fly lines are as personal a choice as rods and reels, though. See if you can try a few different lines out before you buy.

Anyone have a local source for adhesive lead foil? I've checked two fly shops so far without any luck.

Just because you haven't seen them doesn't mean they haven't seen you...

If they're people you know and have some patience ask them questions. Which flies, what kind of presentation, leader length, etc. Then ask them to show you where they hooked up and look at the characteristics of the water. Ask why they were fishing that particular section of water. If you book Max for a day he'll answer all those questions for you. You've already gotten a lot of good advice in this thread. One thing to add is that if you're checking the Bow river reports here, use it as a guideline rather than a crutch. Just because guys say the fish were taking a size 6 stonefly in fast water yesterday doesn't mean that'll work today. It's a good starting point, but don't get hung up on it. Today they might take the same stonefly in slower water, or a different fly but still in fast water. You might also want to look into something like this: http://www.mclennanflyfishing.com/onedaybasicschool.htm

What do you consider a smaller creek? And what other use would it see? Yesterday I used an 8'2" 2wt on the Liv and Oldman headwaters and it was perfect for those little cutties. I use a 4wt for dries on the Bow.

Have you tried standard caddis patterns and tie them to match size and colour of the sedges? Some October caddis patterns might work too.

I'd highly recommend contacting Fish and Game down there or speaking to someone at one of the shops to get clarification. I think what Pete and Trailhead said is probably accurate, but why risk a fine?