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Check the Fishing Get Togethers section and try to get out with some of the people from the forum. You got some great advice in this thread but nothing beats on stream pointers. Watching someone else cast, seeing where they're casting, which flies they're using, and how they're rigging up will help a lot. From there, just get out as much as you can knowing that you'll have good days and bad days. After enough practice, the good days will outnumber the bad.

Just thought I'd post a few of the resources that have really helped me out as I learn to cast with the two-handed rod, especially since there seem to be more people picking it up lately. If anyone has any to add this thread could be a great starting point for people looking to get into Spey casting. Understanding Spey Lines by Simon Gawesworth http://www.rioproducts.com/photos/file/Und...ines%202008.pdf Great article on Skagit lines and for understanding cheaters: http://www.ggacc.org/docs/Sites/1/Bulletin-2006-07.pdf A couple of really good DVDs: Rio's Modern Spey Casting Spey to Z I'm sure there are other good resources I've left out. Anyone?

Talk to either Courtney as Harps said or Brian Niska at Whistler Fly Fishing. I told Brian where I wanted to fish, for what, my skill level, and so on and he set me up with what I feel is my ideal rod and line combinations (Loop Goran Andersson 9126 with a Skagit line for sink tips and Scandi line for floating work). Having said that though, have you cast a two-handed rod yet? If not, you may want to see if speyghillie has any space in his clinic or look into the clinic Brian is offering in May. Both will likely have a variety of setups you can test to see what you prefer, plus you'll be learning from some great two-handed casters.

I've seen a weasel in the rocks at the FC boat launch. They're pretty small though, so I doubt a weasel could've done that to a fish that size. They mainly hunt mice and small birds I think.

Rod (and all gear reviews) are subjective. One might be more suited to your casting style than the other and the opposite might be true for me or someone else. West Winds carries both the Z-Axis and the Helix. Go ask Gord to cast them both back to back with the same reel and line and see for yourself.

Heh, you'd never know that those first few pics and the last one were taken on the same day. Gotta love spring in Calgary... Great to meet a couple more people from the board. Was also great to be able to watch some experienced spey casters at work but it's also sickening to see how easy you guys make it look Pretty impressive turnout considering how miserable the weather was in the morning.

There are already some good suggestions here. A couple of things I'll add based on my own experience. First, if you haven't already, try to take some casting lessons before you buy any gear. Most places that offer beginner lessons will supply rods/reels/lines. Try to cast a few of them to get a feel for the type of rod action you prefer. Make a note of the rod and line that you're most comfortable with so that when you're ready to buy you have a starting point. Visit a few different shops and test as many different rods as you can and note your favourites so you can come back to them. As pseudonym said, you don't have to break the bank on your first purchase, but don't go too cheap either. I started out with a really cheap rod and hit the limit of what it could do fairly quickly. Ask the shop's staff if a rod is forgiving enough for a beginner but has room to "grow into" as your ability improves. As a beginner, you may want to go with a rod that has a "no fault" warranty for those unexpected accidents (car doors, stepping on it when releasing your first fish, hitting the rod with your fly during a cast, etc.). Second, don't forget the importance of matching your line and reel to the rod. Make sure the reel isn't too heavy for the rod or you might find your arm tiring out pretty quickly. Some people might buy a 6 and 8 weight rod and try to save money by getting one reel with two spools for both rods. This will usually mean that the reel balances the 8 weight but is too heavy for the 6. The line is one of the most overlooked things when a beginner buys a rod but probably as important to consider as the rod itself. A great rod with a crappy or mismatched line will usually cast like crap. There are some exceptions to this, but usually they're few and far between.

I think the newer versions of the GPX all have the welded loop at the front. If they send you one of those just use that to make a loop to loop connection with your leader and you shouldn't experience the same problem.

I'm guessing you cut it to change a leader that was nail knotted on. What you could try is making a loop at the end of the line so you're doing a loop to loop connection with your leader. Use some UV Knot Sense or something similar to cover the tip of the line after making the loop so the water doesn't seep in (after drying it like Max said).

That doesn't sound right at all. I have a GPX line that I beat up and abused and it still floats. How old is it exactly? If you haven't had it long it might be worth bringing back. Almost sounds like a manufacturing flaw. Maybe it didn't get treated properly with the "Dry Tip Technology"...

I've only used them on the Bow so far and find they're better on algae covered rocks than my felts were. Haven't had a single problem staying on my feet. YMMV.

Check out the Loop Opti Creek rods. I recently bought a 5 wt Opti Stream and it has quickly become my favourite rod. With the matching Opti line it does a pretty good job cutting through wind. Contact Brian at Whistler Fly Fishing for more info about them.

I just went from felt to aquastealth soles and I'll never go back. The aquastealth is great in the water and won't slip on grass climbing back up a bank when wet like felt does. Aquastealth is supposed to be the same "living rubber" stuff that they make the soles of climbing boots out of. As for hiking long distances in your wading boots that's going to have just as much if not more to do with the fit of the boot and the support it offers in terms of comfort.

So you didn't just wet wade? You aren't as hardcore as I thought you were...

Hence the thread is titled "A Question Of Etiquette" and not "A Question Of Law". Just to play devil's advocate...

Haha, priceless.

nnnnnooooooo!!!!!! you just posted directions to the ultra super top secret fishing spot! (sorry, you knew sooner or later someone was going to say it )

Now go check out some of the threads about reels for two-handed rods. If you get the 5/6 with the matching Elixir line you probably won't be able to fit the line on a reel meant for 5 or 6 wt. single-handed rods. I had to spool my 5/6 Elixir on a Nautilus 8.

Still non-gerard-trout but probably requires more rod than a 4/5 weight.

The Elixir can be used for overhead casting as well, but it won't necessarily give you a delicate presentation. The only non-spey casting I really do with mine is flipping it over while high sticking nymphs.

I think a switch rod would be fine for what you want to do. Honestly I think you could even get away with using your 9 foot rod and just using single-handed spey casts with it. On the weekend I was using a 9' 4wt Loop Opti rod with an Opti Stream line to cast 3 nymphs under an indicator using single hand speys, although my leader wasn't 20' long. I believe the Loop Opti and Multi lines are designed as shooting/spey lines with a colour change between the head and running line so you can see where the load point is with ease. Before buying a new rod/reel/line you might want to talk to the guys at Whistler about the Loop lines or Courtney might be able to suggest a Snowbee single hand line that would do the trick. The Beulah switch rods are quite nice as well, though. I doubt you'd have any trouble nymphing or chucking big streamers with one or fishing for pike. I think the main difference you're looking at between a switch and a spey is the distance you can cast with it. The switch rods are also nice for high stick nymphing and overhead cast decently. The Gawesworth book is good, but you might also want to check out the Rio Modern Spey video. After watching the video I realized that I wasn't getting the full picture from the book.

I own the G3s but I've also read lots of good reviews of the Dan Baileys. I would say you can't go wrong with either one and it comes down to whether you want to pay extra for the Gore-Tex. Fit/comfort may also figure in. Have you tried on both waders? If one fits a bit better than the other that would be the way I'd go. Nothing beats comfort. For me the G3s fit perfectly and I got them at a good price so I just didn't bother looking any further.

http://www.animatedknots.com/albright/index.php Great site to learn all sorts of knots. I'm not very good at tying some of the complex knots, hell nail knots give me fits, but I was able to tie a good albright following the instructions on that site.

I've been wearing polypro long johns and fleece pants under my breathables without feeling too hot. Tuesday I was out on the Bow for a few hours in just the long johns and I started feeling a little cold after a few hours. Keep in mind it wasn't very sunny and I didn't do a lot of hiking. Most importantly, make sure to wear breathable stuff under your breathable waders or it defeats the purpose. Patagonia, Simms, Columbia, Helly Hansen, and a lot of the MEC baselayer stuff is breathable. MEC will be the best bang for your buck. Avoid wearing anything cotton at all costs since it isn't breathable. If you perspire and it stays against your skin, then that will just end up making you cold and clammy. After wearing my breathables I turn them inside out to dry because there ends up being moisture inside the neoprene stockings. Without breathable socks that would stay against your skin.

Agreed. Plus people can sort of scatter a little more that way at some point, maybe half on one bank and half on the other.