hopdrop

I (read: people rowing(ish) my boat) have hammered stuff, and I'm talking hammered. Rocks, trees, jet boats, rafters, spawning rainbows, agressive dogs, ect. with my boats, previously a Hyde and now a Clacka. You'd have to do something really dumb to actually break a boat. I (it was me) split the gunnel (should've been worse) on my Clacka last year (perceived skill to actual skill ratio was running a little rich), little expoxy and she's as good as new. Buy 'em to use 'em. If they're just superficial chips in the gelcoat, any marine place should be able to sort you out. If they're into the glass, order the stuff from Hyde. You're going to need it again. IMO you'd really have to be laying a beating on your boat to justify the shoe. Most guys on the Elk don't bother, and it can be a hard river on boats (see split gunnel).

Nailed it. Don't cheap out on scissors, by the $15 pair over the $4 pair.

Read an article somewhere about this; http://www.flytyingforum.com/pattern7343.html Cool idea, haven't tried it yet.....

My team is debating about a switch for next season. Just looking for some feedback on some of the leagues out there. Good or bad. Earlier ice times are on the wish list (good luck), 30ish games per year, non-contact, reasonably competitive (refs, scorekeepers, ect.) Over 35 leagues won't work. Thanks guys.

Would love to see some time lapse photos of this project if you end going for it.

I'd get a spare oar lock along with those oar rights. If you break/lose an oar lock, it can make for a long day.

I've been looking for a light weight camper for awhile, something that fits a Taco. Here is my rationalization. Plan A. I've come to the conclusion, that the Tacoma (actually has a payload very similar to most 1/2 tons, 1350lbs), although a great little truck, just isn't going to cut it. Any camper that actually fit's and doesn't push the truck over it's limit, is basically a glorified topper. Not to mention big dollar, and you're only taking you. No stuff. Plan B was a 1/2 ton, gives a guy a few more options as far as finding a camper that will fit, but most '1/2 ton campers' are right at the payload limit, dry. Add a dozen rods, beer, the dog, water, food ect, and you're over. What about the boat? Plan C was a 3/4 ton, it should handle all but the very heaviest campers, with enough payload left over for stuff and can pull the boat. But......depending on how fancy you (read: the wife), want to get, they're going to cost some bucks. Also, everytime you want to drive somewhere, camp must be broken. Current; Plan D. 3/4 ton, small (like 20-22') fifth wheel with a boat hitch. Didn't mean to succumb to Albertansyndrom, but it happened. I know BC is out with this setup, but the same dollars are going to buy me way more RV in a fifth wheel than a camper. I realize fuel costs are probably going to increase with this setup, but an overloaded 1/2 ton is going to eat fuel. For the ~10k/year a put on my vehicle, I can handle it. My Tacoma's mileage isn't amazing anyways. There's a reason why most of the campers you see, are on the backs of 3/4 or 1 tons. I know people do it, but can't see how they're not over weight in a 1/2 ton. Most half tons have a payload between 1300 and 1700 lbs. Most half ton campers come in dry around 1300 or 1400lbs. I feel sorry for those trucks. You're basically @^%$ed with an 1100lb payload. Tungsten is right, if you don't need to pull anything else, get a bumper pull trailer. Plan R; 60' Diesel pusher motor home with a 35' enclosed for a tow vehicle and jet boat. Get out there and stimulate that economy.

+1 for the Norvice.

Best. Hat. Ever. Sorry Scorpion, it's better than Operation Iraqi Freedom.

If you're trying to sell to non-fisherman, hoppers or ants.

Print off their warranty form, fill it out, and send the rod in. Turn around time can vary, but is usually pretty good (the few times I've had to send one in). I believe they ask you to send in the entire rod, but in the past, I've only sent in the six or so inches (what ever you can fit in a standard envelope, saves on shipping costs) of the ferrule end of the broken piece. Presumably so they can measure the replacement piece for the best ferrule fit. I've only ever broken the tip or butt (don't ask) section, I think about $100 bucks all said and done. I have never sent a warranty card in.

If they don't, try Gregg's.

I bought one when I was in NZ. Not sure how acurate, but would give you an idea. It just has a strain gauge built into the handle. Net the fish, let him calm down for a second, lift the fish out of the water a few inches with the net. It has a huge basket on it, so the fish stays horizontal. Or clip the net's french clip onto the stringer and weigh the fish that way. Kidding, kidding.

If you were looking 'down range' at the casting pond, they were on your left, at the rear. Custom Rod Builders out of Victoria.

Can I just sell it to you, and we'll split the shuttle? Forget the new one, I want some Abels.

Anyone done some DIY repairs to their fiberglass? Nothing major, just a few chunks out of the chines and some wear through the gel coat and into the fiberglass a bit where the trailer bunk hits. I've heard of guys using bondo, not interested. Epoxy the best bet? Not really interested in dragging it to the states and don't really think the damage is bad enough to warrant a professional job either. It doesn't have to be perfect, it's going to get banged up again. Just want to do some preventative maintenance. Also, anyone have anything different than carpet on their trailer bunks?

Way better than a Gerber.....

You're two DAYS into this? Wow, nice work. My day two flies were FUBARed SJWs.

I'll echo the Gierach recommendations. Colin Angus has two or three (that I've read) books about hardcore adventure travelling. One is his account of circumnavigating the globe under his own power. Pretty amazing.

I've had a Nor-Vise for about four months, put somewhere around 300 flies through it. I love it. I only have the small inline jaws and don't see myself getting any others. They handle the big bully hooks and will hold down to 20s without issue. Probably won't fish anything smaller anyways. I have a love hate relationship with the auto bobbin. It's miserable to thread, and having to put a friction lap around the frame is plain stupid. The connection between the frame and the spool hub is a thread trap (when threading). There has to be a better way and I think the answer is Ekich. The Ekich has the added bonus of not having to spool thread. It's not a big deal, but it's one less thing you have to do, label, buy, ect. $100 for a bobbin is ridiculous, but Norvise is $50 and a never ending need for more spools. That said, the auto feature is great. If you can, try them both before you buy (then you can confirm my suspicions). SilverDoctor's tip about the two bases is a good one. I mounted the thread post just a touch to far from the vise, occasionally I'll exceed the limits of the clutch and the bobbin won't retract all the way back to the hook. Scud hooks are a bit of a problem, but manageable. You're not going to be spinning materials onto the hook shank at top speed anyways (maybe dubbing), and the process for applying dubbing to the thread doesn't change regardless of straight or curved shank. Hope that helps.

Girdle Bug, VERY good fly.

How Flymax is on WFN over that, is beyond me.

Bingo. Or, just don't use it.

That same trip, I rode in a Surf ( I think. It was left had drive) that had over 700k kms on it. It had lived it's life driving BAD roads at high speeds. That's amazing to me. There are so many 'throw away' vehicles made currently. Makes you wonder why, when the technology/quality/whatever, is availible......and it's unlikely the cost of that Surf was double or triple or more than a throw away.

I usually make a paraloop out of bright foam.