Jump to content
Fly Fusion Forums

Tungsten

Members
  • Posts

    2,102
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Posts posted by Tungsten

  1. Well not much building going on,more testing and gathering of materials.Calgary is not a good town to build boat in,pretty much everthing has to be shipped to me.

     

    Since the object is to make it as light as possible the floor will be built from a high density foam.This requires a lot more glass then wood so i've been testing different weaves and weights too see what works best.impact tests have been impressive compaired to plywood so i think i'm on the right track.

     

    i've also built a full size model out of 1/8" hardboard to make sure its what i want.

     

    boat012a.jpg

     

    boat013.jpg

     

    boat020.jpg

     

    boat021.jpg

     

    boat022.jpg

     

    the sides are 24" high, once i get it all right i'll line up my laser line to shoot a straight line that i can trace then i'll cut the sides.when thats done i'll have full size templates.

     

    should move along quickly now that i have everthing.

  2. the farther you cast out into the current the less chance you have of getting a nice drift.

     

    people often say a 6 wt rod is good for nymphing,yes if you want to cast to the middle of the river.

     

    i've found that say you cast a 3 weight your not gonna cast as far so you tend to focus on closer in water,your rig will be lighter and you'll get longer drag free drifts.

     

    remember a lot of fish are holding in water that you can easly wade in.

  3. Unless said person has flipped the head of the electric motor it will be a push motor.

     

    Flippers will work great as long as it is not a stand up model that has a floor.

     

    Moving the motor mount when it is part of the frame is a lot of work which would require it to be cut off and rewelded/painted.

    There is still a good chance of catching the anchor rope or a pontoon depend how high you have the motor and how hard of a turn you make.

     

    My solution: Flip the motors head 180 degree's and mount the motor on a 2x4 which is bolted to your foot pegs.

     

    Even pontoons that are not stand up models can run with the motor on the front with no worries. A pontoon with a floor is ultimately the best set up as the height of the motor can be adjusted depending whether you are sitting or standing.

    When standing and casting you just reach down to steer or speed up/slow down.

    Trolling is just as easy just reach forward.

     

    Oars are not needed but it is a law to have one at least. I just have them bungi to the pontoons so they are out of the way but accessible if ever needed.

     

    i guess if your arms cant reach the controls you'd have to spin the motor other wise you point the controls out in the lake so it pulls ya.this gives you better accsess to your stuff since the handel isnt in your way.

    moving your motor is easy just bolt on a piece of plywood that exstends over a bit then clamp the motor there.

    i can't comment on the stand up thing,sounds like you have it figured out.

     

    having the motor at the front or by your feet on a regular toon is just asking for trouble,this where most of your slack fly line will end up.

    motors always pull,better control, easy trolling and if you want to go real slow spin the motor around and put it in reverse.

  4. it was posted already and i agree, why do you have to steer the motor??you have two flippers just angle them a little and you turn.the motor always pulls ya not push.you can also row while the motor is on so you can get over to Don quicker to ask him what hes using.same thing in the river steer with your flippers and fish with your hands.

     

    and for those of you that the motor gets in the way of the anchor just move the mount off to the side.the motor doesn't have to be in the center.

  5. yes i picked up some also thanks for the heads up gaffer.

     

    scaled down some weight, each bottle is 250lbs and did a test float.

    foam009.jpg

     

    foam010.jpg

    Looks like just enough rocker on the transom, the bow end floor is just touching the water.i measured the draft in the middle was 1 1/8" so to scale about 6.75"

     

    Onto the sides,i had my plywood supplier cut a puzzle joint on each end of the ply with the cnc, this saved a ton of time cutting a scarph and trying to line them up.I whetted them out and then coated in some goo and they just dropped together.

    foam007.jpg

     

    001wfg.jpg

  6. I like the looks of that. Did Roger's book provide any help?Not really but it is a good read.

     

    Did you give any more thought to the chine idea you were considering? Yes, but i would have to build a strong back to hold it.also it may be heavier then fillets and tape.So not gonna do it.

    Andrew

     

  7. Thanks guys,

    i changed the model a little added a little more rocker to both ends so now 8 in the rear and 5 up front i also changed the flat area in the floor to only 2' then a gentle curve after that, this should help get the sides to bend a little more easily.

     

     

    model015.jpg

     

    i curved down the sides a bit to straighten the sheer,this will help keep the wind off and getting in and out a little easier.

     

    model014.jpg

     

    model013.jpg

     

     

     

     

  8. The stitch and glue on the model is a nice touch.

    Why dp you want so much rocker in the back?

     

    BK

    not sure really how much i need but the boat will double as a lake boat so the back becomes the front ,so waves wont slap as much.

     

    Any idea how much rocker yours has?

  9. I like the looks of that. Especially the side profile.

     

    Which end is the front?

     

    I will be following with interest, but you are not allowed to get your in the water before mine.

     

    Andrew

     

    The rocker as it sits now is 6.75" in the stern and about 3.75 at the bow.i think i'm gonna skinny up the floor at the stern to increase to about 8.i think i'll shave a little off of the tops of the sides at the bow and stern to flatten it out a bit.any idea how much rocker you'll end with on yours?

  10. with the sale of my other boat I'm gonna try my hand at a bow river boat,not sure why they call them skiffs maybe the flat bow not sure.here are some pics of a model i built.

     

    161jc.jpg

     

    160wm.jpg

     

    157ne.jpg

     

    163vd.jpg

     

    shooting for about 12' in length,floor width of 48"side height of 20" this gives about 16.5" of free board and a beam of 69-70"

    plan on mounting a bow mount electric so i dont have to row.

     

    ordering some materials and epoxy,i see more sanding in my future.

×
×
  • Create New...