snakeman Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 When I fish 2-fly nymph rigs I like to place my weight between the 2 flies, but I find that after a few casts the split shot starts sliding down to the bottom fly, and constant time-consuming tinkering with the rig becomes necessary. So is there any way to prevent the split shot from sliding down to the bottom fly, without tying a knot in the tippet? I've tried putting a slipknot below the weight but I set the hook so frequently that the slipknot only lasts one or two drifts. Quote
dryfly Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 Just add 12 inches of tippet ahead of your fly. Pinch them above a surgeon's knot. Or use weighted flies. Quote
ÜberFly Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 When I fish 2-fly nymph rigs I like to place my weight between the 2 flies, but I find that after a few casts the split shot starts sliding down to the bottom fly, and constant time-consuming tinkering with the rig becomes necessary. So is there any way to prevent the split shot from sliding down to the bottom fly, without tying a knot in the tippet? I've tried putting a slipknot below the weight but I set the hook so frequently that the slipknot only lasts one or two drifts. Great question! Though I'm not sure of the answer, but would wrapping the tippet around the split shot cause a weak point?! Quote
ladystrange Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 i used to wrap the tippet around the split shot - more than annoying especially when trying to get the shot off, and yes i found it did cause a weak spot. i also used the knot method but found that i ended up moving or re-tying my line often when i changed set ups. i have changed to using a swivel. 1st. 6 ft leader to swivel. add shot above swivel, if needed. then add tippet and flies at desired leghts for cross or down stream drifts. for up stream drifts i use a longer leader and knot the bottom of the tippet, tie nymphs on above and put the slip shot on just above the knot. i got that from kerry galloup's DVD Quote
Castuserraticus Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 I've found some types move and others don't. I won't buy the style with the ears on the back so they can be reopened. They don't stay in place. Look at the shots. If the slit is more than half-way through it won't stay in place. the "hinge" area fatigues too easily. I used to use the matchbook lead but I find the concentrated weight and low surface area of shot gets the fly down better. Quote
Pythagoras Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 You can also add 6" of tippet below your bottom fly and knot it at the end...add split shot there. Quote
WesG Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 I've found some types move and others don't. I won't buy the style with the ears on the back so they can be reopened. They don't stay in place. Look at the shots. If the slit is more than half-way through it won't stay in place. the "hinge" area fatigues too easily. I used to use the matchbook lead but I find the concentrated weight and low surface area of shot gets the fly down better. OKay so if you dont use the winged version then what other style is there? I have seen the singless stuff but how do you get the shot off your line then as there is no wings to re-open it? Do you have to cut your fly off and pull the shot off every time you want to take off weight? Quote
Hawgstoppah Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 I also never use expensive tippet material, just maxima,2x or 3x..Never gets tangledand has lots of beef when needed... Amen. Forget your light tippets for nymphing the bow guys. I used Berkley trilene XT spools for years. 6 and 8lb test. Gotta have something that's tough. Quote
Hawgstoppah Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 and.... in using tougher "tippet" I found that if I did want the weight between flies and tied a knot to keep it there, a weak point was really a non issue. Quote
Hawgstoppah Posted February 24, 2008 Posted February 24, 2008 Actually, just looked at yer original question again. You never specified "bow river" nymphing. In smaller rivers I go with a weight at the bottom (wether it's a wire san juan or a tag end with a knot and some splits, either way works well) Quote
Brownstone Posted February 25, 2008 Posted February 25, 2008 Water Gremlin brand split, the non removable kind .. does not slip, not real easy to find tho .. try a big swivel in between your flies .. using fluorocarbon helps a lot to .. it sinks better than mono & large spools of "spin cast" fluoro cut down on $/m . Quote
Castuserraticus Posted February 25, 2008 Posted February 25, 2008 OKay so if you dont use the winged version then what other style is there? I have seen the singless stuff but how do you get the shot off your line then as there is no wings to re-open it? Do you have to cut your fly off and pull the shot off every time you want to take off weight? Removal can be tough especially with the smaller sizes. That's why I tend to use several smaller ones rather than one big one. I add until I tick bottom. To remove shot I dig a fingernail into the crack to open it enough. The ones I use are more egg shaped than spherical. I can't recall the brand - several sizes come in a compartmentalized round container. Quote
hydropsyche Posted February 25, 2008 Posted February 25, 2008 You shouldn't be reusing shot. When you crimp one on, the lead is soft enough to form a little dent. If you took it off and resued it, you now have a dent to deal with and it will start slipping. I've never tried it, but I would think a spot of knot sense might stop it from sliding? Quote
monger Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 I've been using FOURTEEN lb mono for "worming" and streamer fishing for about 20 years. I place my weight between my two flies and it rests above a single hand knot I put in the mono (no slippage). When nymphing in fast flowing water you don't need fine line. My Dad used to drag soft hackles down and across on the Bow with TWENTY pound mono in the 70's (this was when the stuff was as big as a rope). He previously used 10lb but was just snapping off too many huge fish. I guess if you are using #18/20 nymphs you have to downsize accordingly. My suggestion would be to use the heaviest mono that can fit through the eye of the hook. Heavy leader decreases fighting time and therefore decreases lactic acid build up in the fish. Quote
rusty Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 Rob, I agree wholeheartedly that heavy fishing doesn't require light tippets. However, I've found in the last few weeks that sometimes a lighter (4X) leader with a long tippet lets me fish that winter water with very little weight (a #12 wire SJW and two unweighted flies). The lighter leaders slice through the water a lot easier than the heavy mono does, and I can fish a 10' or 11' leader without hanging bottom all the time in that slack water. I've just been casting at the top and walking the drift all the way down the long runs. Quote
vhawk12 Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 For those who rig the split shot at the end of the leader above a knot...tie a knot below the shot to prevent slipping, but tie one just above the shot as well, this way when dragging bottom, if you get snagged, you can pull and most likely bust the leader at the upper knot, thus saving the rest of your rig and you're only out a couple split shot and some leader, tie a couple more knots and continue fishin'. Quote
snakeman Posted February 26, 2008 Author Posted February 26, 2008 Thanks for the good tips everyone. I think I'm going to pick up a pack of swivels from Canadian Tire and try using them with my worm 'n bobber rigs. Quote
monger Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 You bet Russ. The larger diameter line definately is more bouyant. It's great that new technology has allowed us to use stronger line with much smaller diameters. Calm, slow moving water certainly calls for a bit more finesse as the fish have more time to inspect our offerings. It sounds like you have a great plan for those big, slow runs. Using less weight would also allow one to decrease corkie size if one was so inclined. Thanks for sharing your insights. Quote
WesG Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 I've never tried it, but I would think a spot of knot sense might stop it from sliding? That right there makes the most sense of anything I have read in this thread. No swivels with more knots to them, no weak points, you can still easily add or remove weight and it shouldnt slide down post the little dab of glue.... Seems like genius to me!! Quote
Tako Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 Thanks for the good tips everyone. I think I'm going to pick up a pack of swivels from Canadian Tire and try using them with my worm 'n bobber rigs. :lol: You guys fish weird I don't get the split shot thing.... Quote
Guest bigbadbrent Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 It's all about dredgin man... Quote
Tako Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 It's all about dredgin man... 30 wraps of .020 lead man Quote
Brownstone Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 30 wraps of .020 lead man on a size 18 nymph .. ? Quote
hydropsyche Posted February 27, 2008 Posted February 27, 2008 No swivels with more knots to them, no weak points, you can still easily add or remove weight and it shouldnt slide down post the little dab of glue.... Seems like genius to me!! It came to me as I was writing the reply. What do they call that? An Epiphany? I've never used knotsense but I'm going to buy some tomorrow. The only thing I can see go wrong is the dap of clue will slip because its not fixed to a knot. It would be sweet if it worked. I'm always adjusting my weight (one of *the* most important things to do, IMHO) and stacking them up on top of a small bb welded in place makes sense. Quote
Tako Posted February 27, 2008 Posted February 27, 2008 on a size 18 nymph .. ? Never had need to fish a size 18 Quote
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