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Posted

Flytrapper. Good first shots, however I'll make a comment on your hook rigging before you have a bad experience with a wild steelhead. Those are bound to hook fish deep, as the hooks are so far back from the actual hook of the fly.

In addition, the way you have rigged the wire, you can't change out the hooks. Instead of threading the hook on there, you should push the loop through the eye of the hook, and over the shank. This will hold the hook in a better spot (not just wildly swinging), as well as allow you to change out hooks.

Here's a good link:

 

https://www.deneki.com/2015/11/stuart-foxall-on-tying-trailer-hook-loops/

 

Most of the flies you've been tying with a trailer, don't need them. They'd be better off on a tube, or just a regular hook.

They're not big enough to worry about the lever-action that can occur with really large flies.

  • Like 3
Posted

Flytrapper. Good first shots, however I'll make a comment on your hook rigging before you have a bad experience with a wild steelhead. Those are bound to hook fish deep, as the hooks are so far back from the actual hook of the fly.

In addition, the way you have rigged the wire, you can't change out the hooks. Instead of threading the hook on there, you should push the loop through the eye of the hook, and over the shank. This will hold the hook in a better spot (not just wildly swinging), as well as allow you to change out hooks.

Here's a good link:

 

https://www.deneki.com/2015/11/stuart-foxall-on-tying-trailer-hook-loops/

 

Most of the flies you've been tying with a trailer, don't need them. They'd be better off on a tube, or just a regular hook.

They're not big enough to worry about the lever-action that can occur with really large flies.

 

Thank you for the advice and the link bcube! I agree I used hooks much too large on some of the flies, going to mostly stick to regular hooks, and it is what I have tied the most, I just don't have a picture of them all posted. Are the stingers I tied with wire too long as well, or just the hook to intruder shank flies? I need to find smaller wire for the loop to loop, currently using intruder wire and it is too thick to get through the eye of the stinger hook. Once again thank you for the help.

 

Nick

Posted

They're pretty long. I'd highly recommend you head to a shop and look at an intruder (or intruder-like) fly. Any of the shops can help you out with getting them right. It can be a bit hard to figure it out online. Too bad you missed the seminar I did a couple weeks ago!

 

Checkout saltymykiss flies if you want to see some of mine

  • Like 1
Posted

They're pretty long. I'd highly recommend you head to a shop and look at an intruder (or intruder-like) fly. Any of the shops can help you out with getting them right. It can be a bit hard to figure it out online. Too bad you missed the seminar I did a couple weeks ago!

 

Checkout saltymykiss flies if you want to see some of mine

 

Thank you again for the advice, I will stop in and see if I can get some advice on the intruder ties. Really too bad I missed it! Those flies look great! Once again, thank you!

 

Nick

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

12901035_705708886237332_237431992499961

 

I know its just a Prince Nymph but, it took me this long to make it look rightish, wings are a tad long. Anyways, thank you

IMG_0247_zpsl9vjpuoe.jpg

 

this is a great book, not only for tying mergers but, for a lot of different techniques. Ive had it for awhile, dusted it off today...

  • Like 6
Posted

Is that a partridge hook, doctor? Do you purposely use a heavier hook?

 

That is a great prince big foamy, that fly can be a real headache to get proportions in line.

Posted

Is that a partridge hook, doctor? Do you purposely use a heavier hook?

 

Its a HANAK Barbless Competiton Hook, they are strong. I really like them, It is a close up, I would say it's between a standard 18 and 20. I like em for really big browns as they hold well and don't straighten.

Posted

Foamy, if you don't mind my two bits...you can make that look even cleaner by tying the biots in forward and then backwards to lock them in. Could also tie the peacock in by the tips wrapped around some wire and help generate a nice taper.

 

Not that the fish care. It's a nice tie

  • Like 2
Posted

Awesome ties Muha! I have been trying to work on some of my nymphs, but its quite the struggle with the intricate patterns so I am sticking to the basics for now.

 

IMG_1501_zpszcjz9m9u.jpgIMG_1504_zpsexbwwoxr.jpgIMG_1505_zps33g7kn1g.jpg

 

Went a little too fat on this last one I think.

 

Nick

  • Like 3
Posted

Hard to tie a nice chironomid w/o the right materials. Fine wire or tinsel for the rib, and 6/0 or smaller thread will help you keep them skinny. They really shouldn't be much fatter than the hook shank other than a slight taper toward the bead--which makes bead size important when creating your taper. Here is a guide (posted from a guy on another page)

 

Size 16 nymph hook = 5/64
Size 14 nymph hook = 3/32
Size 12 nymph hook = 7/64
Size 10 nymph hook = 5/32

:peesout:

  • Like 1
Posted

Hard to tie a nice chironomid w/o the right materials. Fine wire or tinsel for the rib, and 6/0 or smaller thread will help you keep them skinny. They really shouldn't be much fatter than the hook shank other than a slight taper toward the bead--which makes bead size important when creating your taper. Here is a guide (posted from a guy on another page)

 

Size 16 nymph hook = 5/64

Size 14 nymph hook = 3/32

Size 12 nymph hook = 7/64

Size 10 nymph hook = 5/32

:peesout:

 

Word. Less is more :)

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