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Thread Bobbins


Flytyer

Thread Bobbins  

20 members have voted

  1. 1. Which type of bobbin do you prefer?

    • Ceramic
      16
    • Stainless Steel
      4


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Guest bigbadbrent

I went with Ceramic, just because i know i dont break my UTC thread, or 8/0 and smaller, nearly as much compared to using a steel bobbin...

 

i love UTC thread, btw haha

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I use both but prefer stainless because of the fact it gerates less heat and disipates much better than ceramic, which is important to the system of tying I use. A word of interest here about stainless bobbin: they are not created equally. Different grades of stainless are used in their making. The ones I used are not flared at the end like most but are straight and radiused and highly polished. Tey are also thick walled which allows this radius and polishing to be applied.

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I can't relate to heat being a problem. I need to come and watch one of you guys tie with a NorVise. I use two flard stainless bobbins and a couple of the Griffen ceramics but I would have to acquire super powers to be able to generate any heat while tying.

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I like the stainless ones only because all the ceramic bobbins I have ever bought have frayed and broken line extremely bad..... some to the point of not being able to get more then a couple wraps between breaks but I have only ever tried 3 and all the same supplier..... maybe I have been buying the wrong brand or something. Am I doing something wrong or do these ceramic bobbins need to be treated with something or something..... So far I hate em

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I only have one ceramic and I use that for Benecchi 12/0 only, the rest are SS and the preferred shape is the bullet as I can spin this to work the thread as opposed to the button type. 95% of my thread is UTC 140/70 Denier as I do not like UNI. Danville was my preferred thread but getting the type I like is hard these days but UTC is great for splitting.

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I like the stainless ones only because all the ceramic bobbins I have ever bought have frayed and broken line extremely bad..... some to the point of not being able to get more then a couple wraps between breaks but I have only ever tried 3 and all the same supplier..... maybe I have been buying the wrong brand or something. Am I doing something wrong or do these ceramic bobbins need to be treated with something or something..... So far I hate em

 

Sounds likre they are defective bobbins. Are they the cheaper indian ones? I know they had some problems with production a while back and lots were recalled. tyeh used a ceramic that was too pourus and like you said, 2-3 wraps and the thread was toast. Take them back from where you bought them and get replacements.

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I have regular style ruby insert and a titanium insert bobbins that have been good so far but I only have been using them for floss for the most part. Has anyone else tried these types? ?The ones I have are the Dr Slick ones.

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Don I have yet to wear out or nick a stainless on yet that have the thicker walls and polished radii. Now the flared end ones that's another matter. Their use is limited to spooled wire. There is alot to be said about the grade and hardness of the stainless steel being used for the majority of stainless bobbins.

 

If you have a stainless bobbin with a nick in it you can polish it out using kevlar thread for those of you that are not aware of this bit of info.

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I have a few in ceramic and stainless. I think it depends on the quality. I like the ceramic as I've never had a problem with them. A couple of my stainless have developed groves that nick thread and I've consigned em to wire and other materials. I have one that I saved by super gluing a glass bead on the end. I've used the Nor-Vice automatic bobbin for a few years now and really love them. No problems so far. Just started tying on a Nor-vice. and really love it.

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here's a really smart sounding amature answer... i don't know.

 

now then for the clarification... i still have the first 2 that i purchased. since i a little on the cheap side and didnt know what i was doing, i'm going to take a stab in the dark and say they are both stainless. i have never had any problems with threads being chewed.

 

i have also recently accuired 2 older bobbins. i want to say they are brass. i dont have them in front of me at the moment. call it 40years old. is it possible they are brass?

 

i have used this one on my most recent project and liked it better than the newer SS model.

 

i guess i could go take a picture.

 

as far as i know, i have not used a ceramic. could anyone give me a little more info as to the specific differences between the 2? or why one would use A over B and in what situation. this is interesting. i have also not used a bobbin for floss or for wire. any school of thought to this ?

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here's a really smart sounding amature answer... i don't know.

 

now then for the clarification... i still have the first 2 that i purchased. since i a little on the cheap side and didnt know what i was doing, i'm going to take a stab in the dark and say they are both stainless. i have never had any problems with threads being chewed.

 

i have also recently accuired 2 older bobbins. i want to say they are brass. i dont have them in front of me at the moment. call it 40years old. is it possible they are brass?

 

i have used this one on my most recent project and liked it better than the newer SS model.

 

i guess i could go take a picture.

 

as far as i know, i have not used a ceramic. could anyone give me a little more info as to the specific differences between the 2? or why one would use A over B and in what situation. this is interesting. i have also not used a bobbin for floss or for wire. any school of thought to this ?

 

I'm assuming that the school of thought you are asking about has to do with bobbins used for floss or wire.....bobbins make the material handling so much easier, especially floss when you want it to stay flat, especially true on any kind of a rotary vise. I use the tradional type bobbins more for use with wire, floss, vinyl ribbing , tubing or and thing else that can be stored on a spool. It's just so much easier to handle when contained with something you can hold in your hand.

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Flytyer,

 

I used to polish out the stainless tips using a high speed die grinder c/w felt bob and jeweller's rouge. Took some time and you never really knew if it worked till it started to break thread.

Kevlar and jeweller's rouge would be a great idea for those inclined. Kevlar by itself is quite abrasive. The wax carrier in the jeweller's rouge would cut down the abrasion a tad. I'd suspect that dental floss [not the Teflon stuff] would work as a jeweller's rouge carrier as well.

 

catch ya'

 

 

Don

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Flytyer,

 

I used to polish out the stainless tips using a high speed die grinder c/w felt bob and jeweller's rouge. Took some time and you never really knew if it worked till it started to break thread.

Kevlar and jeweller's rouge would be a great idea for those inclined. Kevlar by itself is quite abrasive. The wax carrier in the jeweller's rouge would cut down the abrasion a tad. I'd suspect that dental floss [not the Teflon stuff] would work as a jeweller's rouge carrier as well.

 

catch ya'

Don

I agree with you Don it's not the best solution but if one is in a pinch it could get one through. True it does require some effort as well. I just passed that info on in case someone could be out in a remote area and is in a bt of a bind.

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Stainless....Until my kids get a little older.

 

Went back to Stainless shortly after my 8 year old took and interest in Tying last year. The Ceramics will stay in storage for awhile with only one casualty before putting them away.

 

Took some getting used to again and have had some frustrating break offs, so I personally see the benefit of using Ceramic.

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