screaminreel Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 If you make it too sexy you'll never leave shore ! Quote
Tungsten Posted June 6, 2012 Author Posted June 6, 2012 Well not much building going on,more testing and gathering of materials.Calgary is not a good town to build boat in,pretty much everthing has to be shipped to me. Since the object is to make it as light as possible the floor will be built from a high density foam.This requires a lot more glass then wood so i've been testing different weaves and weights too see what works best.impact tests have been impressive compaired to plywood so i think i'm on the right track. i've also built a full size model out of 1/8" hardboard to make sure its what i want. the sides are 24" high, once i get it all right i'll line up my laser line to shoot a straight line that i can trace then i'll cut the sides.when thats done i'll have full size templates. should move along quickly now that i have everthing. Quote
screaminreel Posted June 6, 2012 Posted June 6, 2012 Mike. Talk to Brunsie about the foam thing. I think you'll be more weight than plywood with all the epoxy not to mention cost. Well not much building going on,more testing and gathering of materials.Calgary is not a good town to build boat in,pretty much everthing has to be shipped to me. Since the object is to make it as light as possible the floor will be built from a high density foam.This requires a lot more glass then wood so i've been testing different weaves and weights too see what works best.impact tests have been impressive compaired to plywood so i think i'm on the right track. i've also built a full size model out of 1/8" hardboard to make sure its what i want. the sides are 24" high, once i get it all right i'll line up my laser line to shoot a straight line that i can trace then i'll cut the sides.when thats done i'll have full size templates. should move along quickly now that i have everthing. Quote
Tungsten Posted June 6, 2012 Author Posted June 6, 2012 Mike. Talk to Brunsie about the foam thing. I think you'll be more weight than plywood with all the epoxy not to mention cost. no worries,been doing tests.got it figured out. Quote
Gaffer Posted June 7, 2012 Posted June 7, 2012 no worries,been doing tests.got it figured out. No kidding. You spend more time breaking bits than building boats it seems. Did the plascore ever show up? I am interested to see what I might be able to do with the bottom of my boat to lighten it it. Just encase that model in resin and you're good to go. Andrew Quote
Tungsten Posted June 12, 2012 Author Posted June 12, 2012 Back at it again cut out a dovetail joint in the foam to join another piece on. glued clamped then scrape off the excess. glassed the inside then some peelply on top to flatten out the bubbles its still bendable with the glass on. So after the foam floor cured i played with the model again getting the floor shape right then traced it onto the foam and cut it out.the peelply works good for the pencil lines. So after the floor was cut i returned to the model pieaces stiched one side on and lined up my laser level to trace a line to create a flat sheer. cut them out and put the model back together again. didn't quite get the sheer line flat but a little fine tuning and i'll have full size templates. i'll trace and cut them out then glass and stich it all together again,for the last time i hope. Quote
Tungsten Posted July 13, 2012 Author Posted July 13, 2012 So back at it again,summer is really not a good time to build a boat but oh well it will get done. i've cut out and glassed my sides,then applied some of the plastic film to help level it all out. After laying the glass on the floor which is the foam i realized just how easy it is to lay down too much resin.Solution,vacuum bagging.i ordered one from a shop in the US Joe woodworker is the site and it comes with all the necessary valves to control the amount of vacuum. The plastic pipe is a reservoir to hold extra vacuum but its a little small.i've since adapted a 20lb propane tank to store the vac and its working much better.This keeps the pump from running too much. So i've done some tests to get a feel for it. getting some good results. I can now move ahead so things should go a little quicker now. Quote
Tungsten Posted July 13, 2012 Author Posted July 13, 2012 This is a piece i did today,i glassed both sides of 1/4 meranti. if it works it will be the transom of the boat. My first perfict seal, no loss of vacuum in over an hour. if anyone knows where in town i can get this kind of 2 sided tape,i'd like to here from you.It has to be the foam kind.Thanks Quote
Chadillac Posted July 13, 2012 Posted July 13, 2012 if anyone knows where in town i can get this kind of 2 sided tape,i'd like to here from you.It has to be the foam kind.Thanks I use that type of tape at work to fasten caps to window mullions , as funny as it sounds, try a steel stud framing supplier like kenroc, or pacific west. The 2 sided tape i use is foam but it is white not black. Hope it helps. Cheers Quote
Tungsten Posted July 13, 2012 Author Posted July 13, 2012 I use that type of tape at work to fasten caps to window mullions , as funny as it sounds, try a steel stud framing supplier like kenroc, or pacific west. The 2 sided tape i use is foam but it is white not black. Hope it helps. Cheers Cool thanks,as long as its sticky and the foam is soft it should work. Quote
Tungsten Posted July 27, 2012 Author Posted July 27, 2012 I was able to find the tape at a sealants and adhesive place,butyl its called. So back at the boat,both front and back panels turned out great. With the foam floor not excepting wire stiches that well because of only having glass on one side,i attached wood blocks along the edge with an angle to match the sides. i then attached the sides with screws and a couple of stiches to keep it all straight. i routered a 45 onto the edge of the floor so the sides had something to rest against,this helped keep them in place.the sides are up higher so after its all glued i'll be able to round over the foam to make a nice chine. in some spots i used wood washers to keep the wire from pulling through the foam. Some goo mixed with fillers was spread onto the seams in a sandwich bag with a corner cut out,like a pastry bag. Quote
Gaffer Posted July 30, 2012 Posted July 30, 2012 Looking very good. I am watching your foam floor with much interest. After seeing a ton of wooden skiffs when I was in Montana I am thinking about doing stitch and glue on my skiff and abandon my current framed skiff. Andrew Quote
Tungsten Posted August 8, 2012 Author Posted August 8, 2012 onto fillets and tape,this time round i'm doing it a little different.first the fillet, this time i used different fillers.last time i used wood flour,i did some tests and found it to be weak and it also sagged as it cured.this time i mixed it with a mixture of cellulose fiber and fumed silica powder.this makes a nice non sagging fillet. after a cure of about 2 hours i pre cut my tape to length set it on some plastic and wet it out with epoxy.once it was full i then was able to peel it off and lay it down onto the fillet.with my wet gloves i was able to work out the air bubbles.then a piece of peel ply layed over and rolled out. this technique has saved many hours of sanding.the peelply leaves a nice textured surface ready for paint. I also re cut the shear line to be a little flatter. flipped ,next up, bottom glass. Quote
Tungsten Posted October 21, 2012 Author Posted October 21, 2012 so back at again,i have the outer seams filled chines rounded and taped. bottom glass wrapped and vacuum applied. peelply pulled, broke out the jig to scarph my gunnels to the right length. some epoxy to seal, one outer gunnel fitted glued and clamped i'll get the others clamped on and should be ready for a test float. Quote
Gaffer Posted October 22, 2012 Posted October 22, 2012 Looking great man. I may be talking to you more about some of your S&G techniques you used. You have prompted me to reconsider my skiff as a framed boat. I have a ribbed boat now and i think a skiff would perform better without ribs. Andrew Quote
Tungsten Posted November 9, 2012 Author Posted November 9, 2012 a jig to help hold the scarfs straight as they cure. some clamps and some SS screws cured goo. sanded and epoxy ready for a float Quote
Tungsten Posted November 9, 2012 Author Posted November 9, 2012 it floats!! being so light and small its very easy to row.draft is about 4" in these pics Quote
RedBeard Posted November 9, 2012 Posted November 9, 2012 Very cool! What was the end $$ and hours? Quote
Tungsten Posted November 9, 2012 Author Posted November 9, 2012 still have the whole interior to do ,seats, dry boxes, anchor and of course a beer cooler and holders, rod storage and holders. I'll add it up once I'm done,people ask me about hours spent,i always say who cares, its what i like to do in my spare time. 1 Quote
Jayhad Posted November 9, 2012 Posted November 9, 2012 how much are you going to bill out our free labour at..... Quote
Tungsten Posted November 9, 2012 Author Posted November 9, 2012 free labor is always welcome and will be rewarded with fishing time! when working with epoxy its a waiting type game,you work for 25 minutes applying it then wait 24 hours for it to cure.drink some beer, repeat... Quote
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