headscan

I know what you mean. I took way more unplanned swims with felt soles on the Bow than with aquastealth. Can't wait to try the streamtread soles now.

Not the worst I've heard. http://www.tcpalm.com/news/2009/mar/03/tol...oman-calls-911/ And the best part? They gave her a refund. cheeler, no Darwin award because she didn't remove herself from the gene pool in the process.

With the thingamabobbers don't just look for it to go down. Watch for it to pause, twitch, or move any way other than with the current.

A lot of this stuff exists because of flaws and security holes in Windows. Would you really want the same people who are responsible for those flaws to be the only ones protecting you from them?

ZOMG!!! It already struck!!! http://voices.washingtonpost.com/securityf...es_militar.html

One thing I want to clarify - I'm not trying to say that there's a method to stop missing takes entirely. I'm just looking at ways to try to minimize missed takes. Getting the hookset and landing are also two entirely different things than what I'm looking at. Yeah, you're going to miss a ton no matter what, but why miss more than you have to? This is pretty much what I'm talking about. What happens when there is enough slack between your top fly and one of the bottom ones the fish actually takes that your indicator doesn't move before it exhales the fly? With shorter lengths of mono between flies this is less likely to happen. But when you fish your flies close together you risk foul hooking, wrapping the fish, etc. With longer lengths of mono between flies it's going to take longer for the current to pull that slack out. Time that you could have easily missed takes. Yeah, the whole slow vs. fast water thing is exactly what got me thinking about this. I wouldn't have thought twice about it in the summer, but then I usually tend to fish faster current when it's warmer. I think sometimes we tend to get locked into certain methods, flies, spots, rigs, and so on because we caught fish that way before so why change? Then we stop catching fish and call it a slump, when maybe all we need to do is change one of those things. Maybe the triple nymph rig with the heavy fly on top is one of those things that needs to be changed occasionally. I think I read somewhere (maybe McLennan?) that if you aren't catching fish then change something - flies, presentation, or spots.

I just want to quickly clarify that tomorrow is just the day that the worm starts checking for updates. If nothing happens tomorrow, that does not mean it's all done and you can't get infected any more. A lot of people have been focused on that April 1st date, but the worm can update itself after that as well. Use Windows Update to install all the security patches and run up to date antivirus software to protect yourself. This worm can also copy itself to things like USB thumb drives, so be careful sharing files that way. Don't panic, but exercise caution.

Ok, here's a better diagram of what I'm talking about. My Adobe Illustrator skillz suck but it's all I've got. I might try playing around and putting the heavy fly in the middle of the rig with the medium one at the top and the lightest at the bottom. I don't know that any of it will make a difference but hey, if you don't try you'll never know right?

For the switchers out there... http://speyshop.kiene.com/orvis.aspx $875US = $1100CDN

Yeah, I've seen that article before and it's really cool. What I'm curious about is specifically with the two bottom flies drifting on totally slack line if you're missing much more than 50% of takes like closer to 100%. There are always going to be those subtle takes that won't move your indicator even if you're only fishing a single fly (Hey Dave, notice my correct use of your and you're there? Just for you). Everyone has those stories about going to lift their line to cast and suddenly the line is tight and it ain't bottom... So here's something else to think about. Let's say you're fishing a pretty typical Bow river triple nymph rig for this time of year - SJW followed by a caddis larva with a tiny midge at the bottom. The caddis and midge are drifting loose and you're missing just about every take on the caddis. No takes at all on the midge, and the occasional take on the SJW that moves the indy. You land a couple that take the SJW but none that take the caddis. At this time of year you figure the midge has got to work but maybe not the red one you have on. The caddis on the other hand you think isn't producing at all. You change up your rig so now you have a SJW, prince, and a black midge instead of red. You've just removed the most productive fly you had on. I'm just starting to wonder if the odds of fishing one nymph under an indicator at a time might not be the same as three. I think it'd be a tough theory to test properly unless someone has some scuba gear.

http://www.brid.ab.ca/ Maybe they have the info you're after.

I've been thinking about fishing multiple nymphs under an indicator and the number of takes that I believe I might be missing. My thought is that most of us tend to fish a three nymph rig with the heaviest fly at the top with the lighter flies below it. Under an indicator I believe we're missing a lot of takes with this rig. Since the heavier fly is at the top, I'd think your rig would look something like this early in the drift (the Js are the flies in case it isn't obvious): ___O__________ | | | | | J | / | J | / J/ If your rig looks something like that and you get a take on one of the two lighter flies your indicator probably won't even twitch a little since the mono between the heavy fly and the other two will likely have slack. It's been a long time since I took a physics class and I don't remember hydrodynamics at all, so I may be totally off base with this thinking, but it makes sense to me. Any thoughts? Edit: Argh. Looks like the forum software doesn't like my ASCII art. I'll try to do a drawing of what I mean and post it later.

Mystery solved. Good to know.

Yeah, everything I've read has talked about sparse ties. 1 to 1 1/2 turns of hackle and that's it. I also like Leroy's suggestion of only using half of the hackle. I know the first one I tied had way too much hackle on it.

So if it was two-tiered that would mean one type of license if you're fishing all C&R and another that allows you to keep fish? Interesting idea, but implementation would be difficult. In major centers like Calgary, Edmonton, Red Deer, Lethbridge you could have education/testing locations but what about all the small towns? How far are people going to have to go to take the course or test? There might be a lot of interest in March/April if it needs to be renewed annually but what about outside of that? I think you'd have people who are really concerned about proper identification not really needing a course and learning it on their own and those who don't care either not taking the course or just not paying much attention.

This has only happened to me with Airflo lines, even fresh out of the box when I first take them off the spool and put them on the reel. Everywhere the line passes through my fingers it leaves an orange residue. Usually after a few outings it doesn't happen any more, but whenever I clean my line and dry it by passing it through a cloth the cloth turns orange. Has happened with Scandi Compacts, Skagit Compacts, 40+, and Ridge running line. Even those white fluffy twist ties that they use to keep the line on the spool in the box will have orange on them. Not a deal breaker for me, just an odd occurrence.

You need to make friends with someone high up at the museum and get them to take you on a back room tour. I have a paleontologist friend who used to work at Royal Tyrell and took me back to the warehouse where all the real fossils are kept. Way way cool the stuff they had back there.

All the Airflo stuff - lines, shooting heads, running lines - turn my hands orange when they're new. Kind of looks like I just ate a big bag of Cheetos or something. It goes away after some use so it may just be something from the line coating.

The Airflo lines are all made out of polyurethane rather than pvc like most other lines. That might have something to do with the coiling, but I'm not a chemist so I couldn't say for sure.

Oddly I just picked up some partridge today to tie some soft hackles. I'm so sick of fishing under an indy I can't wait to swing some. I recall reading somewhere about fishing a sort of "life cycle" rig - dry/emerger/cripple on top, soft hackle below it, then a nymph as the bottom fly. Think I might give that a shot this summer.

Just cut the running line off at the back of the head and use a running line like I did for my Decho 5122. Echo recommends the 40+ as a "Floating line normal" for some of their lighter rods. The durability and coiling came up in another thread and someone mentioned that they've addressed this in the newer ones. At the end of the day, it all comes down to personal preference though.

Yeah, I didn't realize how many zeroes were there until I read your post. I haven't seen the store yet, but I'm guessing Jayhad got a little carried away with the zeroes. I could see $40k or maybe even $400k. Grand opening info here. Damn, just noticed Jeanette Lee is going to be there on the 7th but I can't make it that day.

Ah, spring. That time of year when a fly fisherman's thoughts turn to all kinds of spawning activity...

Your fly is always going to rise at the end of the swing. The only thing you can really do is get it down deeper before it reaches the dangle by casting further upstream and mending throughout the swing or using more weight. Just make sure you don't get it too far down or you'll snag constantly. You could also throw a bit of slack in your line to let the streamer sink at the bottom of your swing, but then you risk missing the hits on the dangle or first strip.

I have an Islander IR1 on my 8'2" 2wt and it balances nicely. Not exactly a large arbour, but I agree that you don't really need one for such a light weight. It has a pretty loud clicker, though, so if you want quiet it isn't the way to go.