Dangus

Any change to mackinnon launch?

Hard to tie a nice chironomid w/o the right materials. Fine wire or tinsel for the rib, and 6/0 or smaller thread will help you keep them skinny. They really shouldn't be much fatter than the hook shank other than a slight taper toward the bead--which makes bead size important when creating your taper. Here is a guide (posted from a guy on another page) Size 16 nymph hook = 5/64 Size 14 nymph hook = 3/32 Size 12 nymph hook = 7/64 Size 10 nymph hook = 5/32

You wrapped between the eyes? Style points?

Fluoro for streamers is a waste of money. Fish only see part of the fly--usually the ass end--for a very short period of time. Either they react or don't. Furthermore, the focal distance of the fly and the line are not matching, so one is seen over the other. This is compared to a nymph rig, where the fly and the leader are in the same focal trough, making the leader easier to see. Thus you choose a Tippet with the similar refractive index as water, so it "disappears."

5x is pretty light. Bow fish in the summer will def break you off. 4x and 3x are a better combo.

Where's the one that says stay south of the bridge then?

Make sure to take your controller home, too.

To claim ignorance, I didn't even see that sign just followed the lead of other guys launching in the same spot.

Foamy, if you don't mind my two bits...you can make that look even cleaner by tying the biots in forward and then backwards to lock them in. Could also tie the peacock in by the tips wrapped around some wire and help generate a nice taper. Not that the fish care. It's a nice tie

I don't mind that response, really. But sort of the wrong time/place for it. Fish head went on a rant about how young anglers are a mess yada yada but what biggy is complaining about are those people. I recently fished the vedder and found the same BS. Tims cups dumped everywhere. Piles of line cut and discarded. Way too many people out there that obviously had their mummy wipe their bum and clean up after them until they finally left the nest at 30 (only to move back a couple months later).

Is there a gate?

Cluck cluck cluck cluck

...was being a troll

Well if it's for the city section with the increased flow you're going to need something with a big block for sure.

Got a trail cam?

So what is the action like on these rods? Any graphite rod you'd compare this to?

Other than the obvious big deep runs, the other spots need a bit of an eye...finding the runs within the runs. The water definitely has a look to it. 4 feet plus, a bit of chop and slightly slower than a walking pace. There were a couple spots where you had to get it just into these specific seams to find fish. I got lucky the first fish and that opened my eyes and ended up contributing to my success, as I was blanked up to that point. landed about 8 yesterday above the Mackenzie golf course. Nicest one being a a 14" Brown, 16" white and a 18-20" bow right at the end of the day. Quite a few risers around 2 then it died off. Nice to start the day by having a drift boat pass you, fish your hole and then row straight through it to land a fish on your side. Tried not to let it bother me but a dick move nonetheless.

Bcube got it right. Take this with a grain of salt as Before this season, I had only read a lot on winter fishing. I see tons of guys fishing summer water. I believe that Fish are in wintering holes- Deep, slow runs that don't ice over. They are hard to nymph because the current is so slow and the takes are so soft. It's in and out of the fishes mouth before the current get a chance to push the indicator under. Also, fish are less likely to move out of their lane to take flies, so the indicator doesn't drop when they move back to their lie. I'd think that smaller, lighter rigs would be more successful. Also suspending the flies off bottom a bit more so there is less slack in the system to help you detect subtle takes. With all the midges rising through the water column, makes me wonder if some fish might be suspended.

Why a 4 weight? go 5 or 6...hell I even bring my 8 sometimes. Don't want to be casting chironomid rigs with that nor do you want to be bombing the bullrushes with damsels in the wind. That being said, you sound like a man that just wants an excuse to buy a new rod. So in that case, yes a 4 weight is great for lakes.

I assume this is for brass?

Then that begs the question, For long tailouts and big runs in wide rivers, do you really need t14? T14 doesn't sink much faster than t11 or t8, it just has the weight to keep a fly down in faster, turbulent flows. I would argue that t8, a sparsely dressed and decently weighted 5-6" fly would not only be successful but more enjoyable to cast at a greater distance. I really only found the need for t14 in the kootenays during the end of the freshet on the Lower reaches when the runs just started. Once summer rolled around, t8 or less. Even on heavily fished rivers like the W, the fish didn't seem to mind the rip. In a lot of scenarios (other than the meathole LP confluence), you're 30-40 away from them and reaching down to them with a cast and swing. Just my thoughts.

How long are your flies? I find once you hit a true 5-6" fly with a big profile, cutties don't really hit them as much.

lots of things to consider. Size of river, type of fly, presentations/season, size of fish etc when choosing a rod. But in general... I'd say the go-to for most winter or northern bc fall situations would be a 13'6" 7/8. Go 7 if your more likely to fish fall than winter as you won't be swinging many 200 grain sink tips. Summer fish in Oregon, Washington and BC or east coast "steelhead" are likely better fished with a 11-12'6" 6/7. Again, depends on the size of the water. Shorter and lighter the smaller the river... Jeez, I didn't even do a good job with "in general." Because it's really not as simple as just picking a number. Also, a lot of two handed Rods are rated "6/7" or "5/6/7" Refer to my first statement...

Stiff, as in doesn't fold back on itself? ha. Redbeard, Don't bother with braid. There articulation is where you get your movement from- Looping wire through the eyelet of the next shank or trailer hook provides enough "release" to generate more than enough movement. I believe Jayhad can be quoted belly aching about triple articulated dungeons folding back on themselves and beads "doing nothing." braid/backing is far too limp. perhaps this is his problem?

Have your rod tip pointed toward shore while you fight the fish. The fish has taken your fly and tried to head back to the middle of the river, hooking itself in the cheek closest to the bank you're on. You're trying to keep it there.