Eelpout

Hi I have just begun to fool around with my ARE 12ft 5/6 spey (not the switch) and a 390gr Airflo Scandi Compact (for dry fly/light nmph/emergers work and goldeyes on the N. Sask River). I am looking for a second line/head that will enable me to use indicators on lakes or swing streamers on mostly floating lines (super heavy or long sink tips not really needed). The two lines I am mostly looking at are the Rio Switch and Airflo Speydicator (mostly the Rio due to ease of availability). Just looking for people that have used either of the lines, maybe even hopefully with the ARE rod. Also, how do mid-belly lines handle indicators. I simply am a rook when it comes to most of this kind of stuff. thanks...

As a 6wt is one of the most suggestions (I would too), I will suggest (without knowing budget or how you like rods to feel) the Redington CT. I really enjoy my six for all around stream fishing. Light enough to handle average dries, but with enough guts deep down to chuck n' duck and haul browns out of logjams.

For trout in Alberta: 8.5' to 9' 5wt and a 9.5' 7wt For all species, I'd ratchet that 7wt up to an 8.

The Hardy Universal is really nice over cork. Ring and capture can be nice. Do not generally like double sliding bands though. http://www.flyforums.co.uk/news/files.php?...2_929865403.jpg

4 or 6 piece?

Aweosme CT rod. I love my #6.

This is all you really need to know. haha http://coloradoflyfishingreports.blogspot....uber-hatch.html

I am just curious. I am mulling over a switch purchase and have an Outbound Short 9wt line. Would adding the 15-ft Skagit floating tip from Rio effectively create a Scandi line? The two tips I was thinking of would either add 95 or 109 gr to the 375 of the Outbound (so a 470 or 485 grain head). Has anyone tried this? Would it work as a Scandi, Skagit, or simply fail?

Back to the "One". Pretty neat that, if I read it correctly, they will custom a grip for you.

Have not cast the BankRobber, but the grip (front tapered full wells) is super comfy. I am getting one like it on a custom glass rod.

Top half of a rod works just the same. String some of your better half's knitting yarn through (or buy your own and use the rest for tying flies) and practise away.

Most machined 5/6 reels would proably do. Lamson comes to mind (the #2's). The Redington Rise is only a bit over 4.5oz, the Drift is even smaller. Islander's IR3 and IR4 would also be light enough. Seriously, most 5/6 reels would be more than fine.

As an aside and in defense of George Anderson, he is completely open about his methods, why he has the Mid-Flex Orvis rods and why the GPX was used. I also know Tom at Trout Underground is a "low modulus guy stuck ina high modulus world" and claims "most fast taper rods feel stiff in my hands". I have seen similar comments from folks who proclaim certain rods to "really be a 6wt". I trust the review, though I am not naiive enough to make its desicion for me. I do not put much thought into who won, but into the individual comments for each rod. My two bits. FYI: I fish fairly quick graphite along with swamp donkey and quicker modern fiberglass rods. A slow Hardy glass isn't good for all situations just as a fast rod isn't always the most fun to fish.

Pike flies I keep in a Plano stowaway type box. About 11x8x2.5". Cost, 8 bucks. Pretty sure this is it. http://ca.wholesalesports.com/storefront/f...prod204333.html

Compared to the other TFO models of which I am not particularily fond of, this one is quite nice in the hand. Feels like a 5wt (or 6, 7, 8...) should. Tempted to pull the trigger on the 9wt if I reconsider on a shorter Loomis or Redington.

I am curious if anyone has used the GLoomis ShoreStalker 8'8" 9-weight for pike or salt. I like the idea of a slightly shorter rod for accuracy, though I am concerned about length for distance. I have read some reviews of the other rods, but they are generally even shorter so i can see how distance would be affected more. Also, has anyone also tried the Redington Predator 9wt? Thanks.

Beat me to it. I am also going to say FH Paddock who has two series of glass: brown (slower) and lemon (faster). I also have a 8' 5wt Hardy Glass (almost new) that I'd consider unloading. Not a 3 or 4, but more versitile

Perhaps you mean Greys. Still excellent. in some cases it also means an X-lengthed rod will have a full wells grip, fighting butt, and aluminium reel seat. Sage was mentioned earlier. The new VPX rods have two 690-4 models (one really a 6901-4). The latter is a full wells fighting butt model. Could be marketed as a Salt Rod. Dedicated sal rods will be designed for their particular purpose, with the VPX 691-4 most likely being a modified trout taper.

Make sure your reel fits. Playing with it in the shop, I found the seat is smaller than those on the CT series

People who take excessive time to fight fish do it for their own pleasure, not out of genuine sport. It is not the line the rod casts (or weight in general parlence) nor how deep it flexes that makes it difficult to land large fish, but the strength of the tippet. I've horsed some nice fish in on a short glass 4wt using 6lb mono. I know of a guy who fishes stripers with a rod normally considered a specialty light trout rod.

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