Guest JayVee Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 There must be at least a few of you here that make your own leaders. I've never done this but here`s a recipe from "Active Nymphing" by Rich Osthoff: For an 8ft 3X leader: 40" 20lb 14" 15lb 8" 10lb 8" 0X tippet 8" 2X tippet 20" 3X tippet The author uses Maxima Chameleon for the 3 thickest sections but I'd be inclined to use Berkley Vanish for all sections. He doesn't really talk about how each section is connected, only mentioning that he splices the 20lb section to the fly line with a needle knot. So, would anyone care to share their thoughts on this formula or post a recipe of their own? I'll use these mainly for nymphing and streamer fishing with my 7 weight Spey rig (24ft compact Skagit head...for now). I'm guessing for streamer fishing I could get by with a shorter leader. Thanks guys. Neil Quote
Flytyer Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 here's something that may be of interest to you: http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbetter/lead...lc/download.php Quote
Guest JayVee Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 here's something that may be of interest to you: http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbetter/lead...lc/download.php Excellent reference material FT...thanks for that! Quote
Flytyer Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 This system has been around for quite awhile and it's great that it's creator updates it as well Quote
headscan Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 Are you using tips on your compact skagit? If so, just use 2-3 feet of 10lb Maxima from your tip to the streamer. No real need for a long tapered leader when fishing tips. Quote
Guest JayVee Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 Are you using tips on your compact skagit? If so, just use 2-3 feet of 10lb Maxima from your tip to the streamer. No real need for a long tapered leader when fishing tips. Yes I'm using tips. So far I have a 15ft floating tip (#8) and a 15ft 7wt (95gr) type 6 sink tip. Others to come, I imagine. I'm not well versed in Spey lines and tips and it has been the most confusing aspect of Spey gear so far, but I'm getting there. Quote
headscan Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 If you're using the Skagit setup on the Bow, then you probably won't need anything heavier than that type 6. I'd get a type 3 as well for low water conditions. If you throw a 9 foot leader on that type 6 tip you'll end up losing a lot of flies. I've never nymphed with a Skagit line, but my friend does. I think he just attaches a leader to the end of the Skagit head rather than using any tips. Quote
maxwell Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 for leaders i use too use a 4' 3' 2' method...... usually 4'15lb 3'10lb 2'8lb for streamers jsut run 2 feet of 15lb Quote
agbff Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 What are the advantages to making your own versus buying one...? Quote
headscan Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 If you make your own, you can make it to your own preferences in terms of length as well as the taper. So if you want something to turn over heavier flies you could use a heavier butt section and so on. Plus, if you're on the water and you have your tippet spools you can build a new leader from scratch in a pinch. Quote
Conor Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 If knotting your own leaders interests you, you might want to look into furled leaders. It is a bit fiddely at first, but gets easier. I have been using furled leaders for dry fly for the past two seasons, and have started designing leaders for nymphing this winter. Quote
walker1 Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 I also have been tying my own leaders for 10 years. A definate cost saving and as mentioned easy to change things up. Maxima for the first 3 sections tapering down with various tippets depending on use. Quote
dube Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 Do you guys find that built up leaders lay out straighter than the factory tapers? I would assume since they are made up of several lengths they would be less susceptible to memory loops. I may have to give it a try. Quote
SilverDoctor Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 Do you guys find that built up leaders lay out straighter than the factory tapers? I would assume since they are made up of several lengths they would be less susceptible to memory loops. I may have to give it a try. I depends what type of leader material you use. I like stiff for the butt and softer toward the tip depending on the type of fishing. I always build my own. If you build your own you can experiment with different combination of materials. Small loop to loop on the end so you don't have to sacrifice you leader, then just add your sacrificial end. I like furled leaders for dry fly work. Add a bit of floatant and they sit nicely on the surface. Quote
Taco Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 SilverDoc, what do you prefer your furled leader made from? uni? I'm building a 10ft adjustable jig right now so I can build them from 3' to 10ft. Quote
SilverDoctor Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 SilverDoc, what do you prefer your furled leader made from? uni? I'm building a 10ft adjustable jig right now so I can build them from 3' to 10ft. Most of mine are from uni, nice an supple takes the better part of a spool. Have a few I really like that I made from Clarks sewing thread (mono). My leaders are only 5" right now as that's my jig. Should really do up another one for next winter. I usually make up enough for a few years worth of fun, I like to include a set shorbed loops for ease of change up to the sacrificial leader. That long jig You're making sounds cool, mine is many years old, just a two by fores and dowels. Need to make a folding one some day. Quote
Guest 420FLYFISHIN Posted February 5, 2009 Posted February 5, 2009 by knotting up all that line dont you just make extra stress points in the rig? Quote
headscan Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 Every knot is a potential point of failure, but I've found that my leader to fly knot almost always gives first. If you're tying up your leaders at home, then take the time to get it right and if a knot doesn't look good or didn't feel right when you tightened it, clip it and start over. Quote
SilverDoctor Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 by knotting up all that line dont you just make extra stress points in the rig? Also add moisture to your knots before tightening. Keeps the area from heating up and stressing. I have never had a knotted leader fail at a knot in 54 years so I'll keep using em. Quote
jksnijders Posted February 6, 2009 Posted February 6, 2009 I got sick of paying 9 bucks for 3 tapered leaders, so I started making my own. I buy Berkley in the big spools from 20 lb down to 4 (in each size down), cheap, plentiful, and hasn't cost me many fish (to my knowledge). People will probably laugh when I say I usually just use one strand of 8 lb (not necked down at all..) 9 feet or so, when nymphing almost anywhere. I've become a big fan of GRHE's, bigger with 2 beads. And shot in front depending on current. Can't say I've ever had real difficulty turning em over either. If the situation dictated a hair-fine tippet I carry a few in my vest, or just use a bit longer finer add-on. But I've become a fan of making tapered leaders, as for the knots, pull test til it draws blood, and good to go.. Never had a problem with them after. I check 'em periodically for nicks, and cause I tend to step on them alot.. As for busting off fish, I had a bit of a heavy hand at one time, but it's rare I snap one off on the hookset nowadays. They seem to lay out well, for my most-certainly-lacking-finesse casts.. Definitely worth a go in my opinion. Quote
Conor Posted February 7, 2009 Posted February 7, 2009 SilverDoc, what do you prefer your furled leader made from? uni? I'm building a 10ft adjustable jig right now so I can build them from 3' to 10ft. I like uni for dry fly, too. I haven't tried silk, yet. The extra density might work well. I have a spool of invisible nylon sewing thread I have broken in yet. I've heard some guys like a mix of the uni and the nylon thread. I will throw a strand of light super braid (just one from one end peg to the other) to add some strength to leaders I may use heavier tippets on. I've also been experimenting with light floro and super braid for nymphing leaders (some with uni indicators in the first foot or two). Fun stuff. Quote
SilverDoctor Posted February 9, 2009 Posted February 9, 2009 I like uni for dry fly, too. I haven't tried silk, yet. The extra density might work well. I have a spool of invisible nylon sewing thread I have broken in yet. I've heard some guys like a mix of the uni and the nylon thread. I will throw a strand of light super braid (just one from one end peg to the other) to add some strength to leaders I may use heavier tippets on. I've also been experimenting with light floro and super braid for nymphing leaders (some with uni indicators in the first foot or two). Fun stuff. Tried silk and wasn't thrilled by the turnover, could be just my style. adding some nylon to uni stiffens it a bit which is kind of nice. Lots of kool stuff to experiment with. Quote
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