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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey guys, I love seeing what everyone is tying. I just started tying about a week ago, from a kit that I received for Christmas, as well as lots of materials bought at the fly shop, need to work on some things but I am starting to get the hang of things. Most of the flies in the pictures I have about 3 or four of, some in different colour combos. And of course constructive criticism is always welcome as well.

 

Thank you,

Nick :)

 

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  • Like 8
Posted

Nick, first off, let me begin by saying nice ties, they will all catch you fish. I particularly liked the brown and white bunny fly. There are a couple of things I did notice though. On the cone head flies, try using some of the rabbit fur as dubbing and fill in the gap behind the head. It's pretty easy, just pull a little fur from the hide, with the bobbin hanging down, use your right hand to twist the fur sparsely around the thread. When you have an inch or two covered, simply wrap your thread around the hook shank behind the cone. Stroke the fur rearward after each wrap so you don't trap any fibres under your thread. It will make your fly look finished. Or use it as it is, it'll still work. On the fly with dumbbell eyes, the eyes are heavy and will make the hook ride point side up. The colours should be dark on the underside of the hook and light on the top side. Other than that, I think you're off to a great start.

Posted

Nick, first off, let me begin by saying nice ties, they will all catch you fish. I particularly liked the brown and white bunny fly. There are a couple of things I did notice though. On the cone head flies, try using some of the rabbit fur as dubbing and fill in the gap behind the head. It's pretty easy, just pull a little fur from the hide, with the bobbin hanging down, use your right hand to twist the fur sparsely around the thread. When you have an inch or two covered, simply wrap your thread around the hook shank behind the cone. Stroke the fur rearward after each wrap so you don't trap any fibres under your thread. It will make your fly look finished. Or use it as it is, it'll still work. On the fly with dumbbell eyes, the eyes are heavy and will make the hook ride point side up. The colours should be dark on the underside of the hook and light on the top side. Other than that, I think you're off to a great start.

Thank you Murray. In regards to the cone heads, those are the first ties, my other ones were wet from fishing however I have filled the gap on the fly as you noted. I appreciate the tips and I will fill in those gaps.

Once again, thank you!

 

Those are some great looking flies Panther! I like the mouse pattern!

 

Nick

  • Like 1
Posted

Amazing ties Gary, wow is all I can say.

 

Andy those look great, I agree, the deer heads look awesome!

 

Sorry this post is picture heavy.

 

I have turned my attention from big streamers to some winter Bow flies and some different chironomid patterns. Still trying to perfect the Wooly Buggers, lots of work to do on them still. The double chironomid pattern on the bottom was a bit of an experiment, turned out a little rough but I had seen this pattern before in the shop.

 

Nick

 

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  • Like 7
Posted

Nick, a suggestion if I may, consider using finer wire and 8/0 thread (if you aren't already using 8/0) when tying chironomids in mid and smaller sizes. You can also use 8/0 thread in different colors for bodies and mylar or gunmetal flashabou (the narrow stuff) for your chromies, wrapping a doubled up strand over a tapered thread base. With finer materials you can build up a slim but tapered body, better representing the profile of the naturals. For durability coat with brush-able superglue such as LaPage or Elmer's Krazy Glue.

Posted

Nick, a suggestion if I may, consider using finer wire and 8/0 thread (if you aren't already using 8/0) when tying chironomids in mid and smaller sizes. You can also use 8/0 thread in different colors for bodies and mylar or gunmetal flashabou (the narrow stuff) for your chromies, wrapping a doubled up strand over a tapered thread base. With finer materials you can build up a slim but tapered body, better representing the profile of the naturals. For durability coat with brush-able superglue such as LaPage or Elmer's Krazy Glue.

Thank you for the advice Flyfisher! I am using UTC 70 thread, not sure what 8/0 is (my apologizes I am very new so some of this blew right over my head). I have been using silver flashabou but I have trouble obtaining an even wrap, still lots of work to do on the chironomids. As for durability I have just been coating them with head cement but the Elmer's sounds like a good idea.

 

Thank you again for the advice!

Nick

Posted

Nice ties everyone!

 

I've been enjoying a lot of streamer tying myself! Got a question though. One of the streamers I've been tying is the Dalai Lama articulated streamer. The stinger hook is #2 tied upside down and pierces the main rabbit strip. The front of the articulation is a articulated shank, 35mm.

On this fly I was expecting the tan to ride upright with the white toward the riverbed, but when I fish it it rides with the white up.

 

Any suggestions on how to make a rabbit strip patter swim as you tie it? Ie. tan over white? I'm pretty sure I tied the fish skull in the correct way...

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  • Like 3
Posted

I've found I really like to use the fish skull sculpin helmets instead for patterns where you want the hook pointing up. The common reason I have seen for wanting the hook this way is to imitate sculpins that reside near the bottom of the stream, which require the hook up to avoid snags rather than being just for looks. Instead of the normal fish skulls your using, the fish skull sculpin helmets seem to be better at imitating this and have a lot more weight on them to force the hook point up, along with getting the fly down where you want it. If you give these a try I'm sure you'll be impressed with the results over the regular fish skulls

Posted

does it instantly flip over or just once u start stripping it? I think when the top rabbit strip is longer, it encourages it to flip over.

 

No it doesn't Bron, stays long strip down

Posted

That's what I mean...the longer strip goes up all the time. Not sure if the extra resistance acts as a keel or if the hide holds more air and is buoyant?

 

I've done some patterns using those fish skulls with white schlappen and marabou and just colored the top half of the fly with a copic marker. Sheds water nicely, sinks well and still gets good movement. I've limited most of my bunny patterns to just the tails (for movement) as I had the same problem you have with double bunny as well as that they don't sink reliably. IMO Using split shot to get a fly down is pretty lame...especially if you've already got a t14 tip on.

Posted

Colin,

 

Let's go out for my usual B-day trip in May to Lower K and give those bad boys a try!!

 

Playing around with some Silver Tip Fly Company minnow heads and sculpin fins.

 

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  • Like 1

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