Car Batter Inquiry

[ÜberFly]

I have an '06 Mazda 6 Sportwagon. Bought new, has ~95,000 kms and I have never had an issue, thus far...

 

Today I couldn't start it (ran into Timmy Ho's - left radio on and lights on for my passanger, but car engine was NOT running for about 5 - 7 minutes). Went to start it and it wouldn't start (gauges went all wonky no clicks or other sounds whatsoever... After about 5 hours (went fishing) came back and it started...

 

Is it my battery (I presume so) or alternator? How do I check as it's a sealed unit. I will be taking it in for an oil change next week to my mechanic so he can test it, but I'd rather not buy a battery through him as I'm sure I can purchase one at Cdn Tire or Costco for much less...

 

Thanks for your help in advance...

 

Peter

[deeppowder]

Pete,

 

First thing would be to load test your battery. This will tell your how much life your battery has or has not. Maybe you mechanic can do this for you if no access to a load tester. Next, make sure your battery posts and terminals are clean and tight. Then take a volt meter and read your battery voltage. Should be around 12.5 volts. Start the car and voltage should go up a volt or so. Alternator is good.

 

Our ski lifts use a lot of big batteries. Sealed batteries are awesome. No mess. Most problems with batteries are at the terminals.

 

 

Jeff

[Guest 420FLYFISHIN]

yep, sounds like low CCA. but at the same time that sounds like a problem my wife's old Saturn had. it would try to start and then just stop dead (no clicking or cranking) then 5 minutes later it would fire on up...or not

[ÜberFly]

Thanks Jeff, Jer & Greg,

 

1st thing I did was check to see if the post were clean and tight... I'll have my tenant check the volts (he's an electrician) and has a volt meter...

 

P

[gentlemang]

Pete,

 

First thing would be to load test your battery. This will tell your how much life your battery has or has not. Maybe you mechanic can do this for you if no access to a load tester. Next, make sure your battery posts and terminals are clean and tight. Then take a volt meter and read your battery voltage. Should be around 12.5 volts. Start the car and voltage should go up a volt or so. Alternator is good.

 

Our ski lifts use a lot of big batteries. Sealed batteries are awesome. No mess. Most problems with batteries are at the terminals.

 

 

Jeff

 

This is good advise.

Sounds like something simple, a cable connection problem, if you were not hearing any clicks or anything and then it started later. Batteries don't recharge themselves so I would suggest it is something else, like Jeff recomended check and clean all of your connections, make sure they are tight and then put the volt meter to them.

Good luck

Greg

[ÜberFly]

Ok so we just tested the battery. 12.7 with the car off, 14 something with it running... Re-checked cables and they are clean & tight!

 

P

 

 

[fishinglibin]

If you ara a member, AMA will test it with their mobile unit for free.

[Ricinus]

Some vehicles have battery shut off so if you leave your lights on it will shut things down so you have enough juice to start your car. Maybe check your owner's manual to see if you have it and how it works.

 

I would also try to repeat it to make sure it wasn't a once only type thing.

 

Mike

[Hawgstoppah]

I had the exact issue with an old mustang I had when I was a teenager. It ended up being the ignition control module... which was weird because it would die, I'd leave it for 20 minutes to a half hour, and it would fire right back up.

 

what I ended up doing was going to the junkyard and picking up a second ignition control module for that car. I jury-rigged it in right beside the original one, and when the car wouldn't start, I opened the hood, simply unplugged the wiring harness from the original one and plugged into #2. Funny thing is this happened no matter which one of the two I was plugged into, but if I swapped the car would start right away.

 

I know it's a long shot, but that was my experience.

 

Cheers