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bowbonehead

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Posts posted by bowbonehead

  1. I'm wondering how you guys are constantly breaking rods(hitting rod with weights or bead-heads-open up your loop) I use T.F.Os for boat rods with all sorts of skill level anglers using them and have only replaced 2 sections in ten years, and thats with their basic rods(40 bucks at the time) M.K.M.-you can get Springbrook to replace the feet but its pricey and I do not think it would be warranty. Probably not worth it if you have put lots of days on the waders. Money would be better spent on new ones and get a thin pair of neoprene socks to wear over your feet as this will save wear and tear on the feet which are usually the first thing to go on waders due to sand,gravel and compression. Must be just about time to head west!

  2. Indicators are great for beginners and are definitely an advantage in certain conditions and are a guides best friend as are hoppers with a bright post on them. The trouble is people don't take the time to adjust the depth, which on the Bow is always changing therefore they miss a lot of takes because they have to much line between the indicator and the flies in which case the fish picks up the fly and drops it before the indicator moves or they have too little line and the flies don't get down to the fish on the bottom (this is more of a problem fishing out a boat then wading as you have less time to adjust your depths as you float along) Fishing without an indicator once in while will teach you better "line control"which should in turn increase your hookups.

  3. How you fish a streamer really depends on the water your fishing at the time and whether your fishing from a boat or wading. If your in a boat you are casting to shore usually just ahead of perpendicular to yourself and stripping speed is dependent on water depth and speed of current (shallow and clear generally means longer casts,longer leaders and quicker strips,faster deeper water generally means slower strips as the current will impart lots of action to the fly)Try to keep the fly as close to the dropoff for as long as possible as this is where most of action will happen. If your wading you should start at the top of a run and work your way downstream swinging the fly as you go, again the current will impart most of the action to the fly until it gets below you at which point you may strip the fly back towards you before you cast again In faster deeper water a cast slightly upstream of perpendicular will allow the fly to get down to where the fish are(a few mends may be necessary) Don't forget to fish the water close to shore before you wade in as especially in the A.M. as there often fish lurking in the shallows. Keep in mind what it really gets down to is line control if you cant feel the fly you wont feel the takes! No feel No fish

  4. I have to agree with the others when ever possible go without the indicator it will teach you better line control and how to feel the fly and take which will catch you more fish in the long run "remember its not what your using its what you do with it"

  5. Loop to loop is fast and easy and as mentioned a lot of the new lines now come that way with a loop already there. Call me old fashioned or just plain stubborn but I still prefer to add a heavy butt 2 to 3 feet with a nail knot and bloodknot the leader from there if you use zap a gap or a similar product on your nail knot connection you will form a nice bead that will pass through your tiptop and guides effortlessly

  6. At this time of year they are probably taking boatman. try swinging princes,copperjohns or a boatman pattern from above and to the side of them be prepared for a violent take Keep an eye out for October caddis as they out now, try waking a Goddard or like pattern again the take will be violent use 3x ....... Have fun!!!!

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