KnotLikely

Does anyone have any information about the development taking place on the floodplain in Cranston slightly upstream and across river from the new Pine Creek wastewater treatment plant?

I never insinuated that Hullswood was a 'secret' spot, though it is a spot that does receive significant pressure; productive or not, that depends on the angler. I've received plenty of help from others, including many from this board and for that I'm very appreciative. I'm also glad to return the favour. I just expressed my concern over exploiting areas for anyone who reads this board to see whether it be Hullswood, Southland, the Crow, Castle etc. When an angler calls a flyshop, and asks for directions that's information given to one person, and eventually a handful of his/her buddies. When you post on here, you're advertising to the masses. I've fished in areas where anglers are lined up by the dozen and feel very fortunate that we don't "yet" have situations like that on Alberta waters, even for anglers like myself who for the most part can only get away on weekends with the rest of the masses. Thanks everyone for your opinions. This Saturday I'll be in the area of, Latitude = 50.9037, Longitude = -114.0136 Lat = 50 degrees, 54.2 minutes North Long = 114 degrees, 0.8 minutes West ...if you see the guy with the red hoodie, stop by and say hi.

I like Toolman's approach, but after this there was another post from a different member giving quite specific directions to a spot that already receives a significant amount of pressure, especially in the winter. I agree the sport should be promoted, but I also think that you should have to pay your dues and do a little homework before being spoon fed directions to a very productive spot. Especially one that is already heavily fished, but then maybe these spots are just being used as 'sacrificial lambs' to keep people away from the holes that haven't been exploited...just my thoughts.

I'm interested in getting everyones opinions on blanket postings of specific fishing locations. This board is all about providing info, helping out other flyfisher's etc, but maybe I'm greedy. I cringe every time I see a posting that provides specific details of a location for everyone to see. I think it's great to help others out, but I also think people should have to do a little research for themselves before getting spoon fed answers. It's one thing to suggest Policeman's, or Fish Creek, or offer to take someone out for an outing, it's another to say, park here, walk down this path until you get to this bend across from the dead spruce, walk straight out, and fish this pool. ...your thoughts!

I own Sage, G-Loomis and TFO rods. I'll take my Sage rod's over any of the other two, or the Scott, Fenwick and Orivs rods that I've tried. In fact I'll take my Sage DS over the pricier G-Loomis GL3. Any of you G-Loomis fans want to buy a G-Loomis GL3 4-piece 6 wt so that I can replace it with another Sage?

Looks pro compared to the crap i tied up when I first started. To get the wire rib to stand out a bit better, it helps if you counter wrap it. That way it doesn't just settle in the wraps of your body material.

I’d recommend starting with the following patterns and the listed materials and tools below to get started. Wolly bugger http://www.westfly.com/patterns/wet/woollybugger.shtml Gold Ribbed hairs ear http://www.westfly.com/patterns/wet/haresear.shtml Pheasant tail http://www.westfly.com/patterns/wet/pheasanttail.shtml Prince Nymph http://www.westfly.com/patterns/wet/prince.shtml Griffiths Gnat http://www.westfly.com/patterns/dry/griffiths.shtml Elk hair Caddis http://www.westfly.com/patterns/dry/elkhair.shtml Adams http://www.westfly.com/patterns/dry/adams.shtml Stimulator http://www.westfly.com/patterns/dry/stimulator.shtml And of course the BAW I think the biggest mistakes I made when starting to tie, and things I still have to watch out for are 1 proportions, especially crowding the head, and 2 using to much material. I found it easier to buy 1 of each of the patterns that I wanted to tie, and copy the proportions and amount of material on the store bought flies. My first flys were complete garbage, but they caught fish. I’d say a good starter supply list would be: - Black/Brown/Red 6/0 thread - Black/Brown 8/0 thread - Black/Brown/Olive/Grey/Yellow/Orange dubbing - Gold beads in various sizes - Black/Brown/Olive chenille - 22 guage Red/Copper wire - 26 guage Red/Copper wire - 30 guage Red/Copper wire - Grizzly Hackle - Brown Hackle - Black Hackle - Deer and Elk Hair - Pearl Crystal Flash - Brown/Black/White Goose Biots - Hare’s mask Natural - Peacock Herl - Pheasant Tail Natural - Turkey flat - Assorted Mustad 9672, 94840, 3906B, 37160 TMC 200R hooks - At least one good ceramic bobbin - 1 good pair of scissors, and one crap pair (cutting and trimming hair) - Hair stacker - Matarelli whip finisher - Bodkin - Head cement Once you get hooked, you’ll be buying stuff you need, you will need in the future, and stuff you’ll never need, but think you need.

About 10 years

I've found the same thing, and have started to use turkey biots instead. I find the quality to be better, and the extra length also comes in handy.

Thanks LadyStrange Hook: Mustad 94840 #14 Thread: Light Olive Tail: Pale green antron Middle section of body: Fluorescent Pink Floss (middle 1/3) Body: light olive ice dubbing. Dubbed lightly over hotspot Mid-wing: bleached deer hair wing tied over mid point Hackle (rear): under sized light blue dun tied in at tail and palmered over body to the mid-wing I'm passing on to flyangler

It's almost remembrance day, how about something on that theme

I like the idea of the frame. I've just tied the mylar in at the rear, cut, move to the front, start the thread, and before tying in at the front, created the tapered shape by gently pushing back on the mylar with my right hand, and pulling down on the mylar with my left hand. Once I have the shape I want, I pinch it with my left thumb and index finger near the front, and wrap and secure with my right. I don't know if it helps or not, but I apply a coating of head cement to the mylar to keep it from separating. The frame method looks easier, and probably keeps the mylar from separating better than the method I use.

How about a theme dedicated to some of the great tiers, and the flies named after their name sake, or flies that they are well known for. When possible, the flies should be tied as called for by the originator. Lee Wulff - Wulff series Bob Clauser - Clausers Brian Chan - Chironomids Skip Morris - Skip Nymphs Joe Butorac - Marabou Spiders Hans Van Klinken - Klinkhammer Series ...Frank Sawyer, Roderick Haig-Brown, Jack Dennis, Helen Shaw and many others. Lots to choose from

It should run if it's plugged into the wall. It might be stuck in a power saving mode. Plug it into the wall, hold down the power button for about 10 seconds, this will force it off. Press the power button again, and see if anything comes up.

Alaskabou's, while they're big and gawdy, they're a cheap and easy tie, and most importantly, they work. Pacres' has a good step-by-step on how to tie them for anyone else that's interested. http://flyangler.ca/index.php?option=com_c...6&Itemid=32

Good to finally meet you and everyone else from the weekend. I've been fly fishing for about 10 years, and haven't met as many people or learned as many new tips and tricks as I have since I've been a member on this board. Looking forward to meeting more of you, and hopefully being able to help out with a few tips and tricks of my own.

Once you have the hackle tied in, pull it upward from the tip. Now that you have some tension on the hackle, pull the fibers back starting from the bottom (Sometimes it helps to wet your fingers before you pull the fibers back). Make sure to pull the hackle fibers back as you wind it on similar to how you would palmer a rabbit strip

I think most of us who are tying large patterns with stingers are heading to single barbless hook waters in BC, so the front hook is cut at the bend leaving just the shank, and no chance of unnecessarily harming a fish with a second hook. From what I've read a single rear hook is just fine for salmon and trout. Pike fishing may be a different story, as they often hit from the side.

I like to put a little head cement on after tying on the fireline to the forward shank, and then double back and tie the doubled back section down while the head cement is still wet. I've seen a few stingers tied repeating the same process with a second piece of fireline for a bit of insurance. Do any of you ever use Waddington shanks?

My all purpose Bow River rod is a Sage DS 690, but if I'm set on chucking streamers, I prefer to use the stiffer Loomis GL3 both 6 wt. For the Crow, and pretty much all other Alberta streams, it's a Sage SPL 484-3.

I second the Tioga. Russell's, and I think Fish Tales also carry them.

I use a Renzetti traveler, and before that a cheapie CT special, that now only gets used when I need to mash down the barbs on larger salmon hooks. I like the rotary feature so much that sometimes I think I should give a Nor-Vise a try

After reading your post, I'm tempted to look for some seat sales, and get back out there. Great post, and pics. The Gamakatsu in that one pic looks like it's just about ready to fall out!

That fly reminds me of an old restaurant that used to be in Fort Macleod called the Scarlet & Gold which got it's names from the traditional RCMP colours. I really like your choice of colour and material. For a flash fly, my preference would be for a tail about the length of the hook gape, a sparser wing, and a collar that reaches to about mid shank. That would be my preference, not to say one way or the other makes a better fly. ...looks good, can't wait to see your next creation.

Check out You Tube, lots of good videos on there. KSPS usually airs 'Fly Tying the Anglers Art' Saturday mornings in the fall and winter. LeRoy Hyat, and the late Dave Engerbretson from this show were huge influences on my tying. Also check out the Sport Fishing On The Fly 'On the Bench Series'. Vic Bergman has a good video that's available at the library titled 'Trout -Tying and Fishing Effective Trout Flies'. The Video covers a lot of the usual suspects like. GRHE, Woolly Bugger, Deer Hair Caddis, C.D.C. Blue-winged Olive. If you fish still waters some easy patterns to tie are: chironomids, the super easy Griffiths nat, marabou leeches and marabou damsels (http://www.flyanglersonline.com/flytying/beginners/part14.html)