chiasson

This is "the Sage noodle"? I think Troutfitters had one in, it may still be there. I gave er a wiggle; it seemed like it would be a lot of fun on smaller trout. I also agree with the comment that bigger fish can be effectively and safely landed with lighter gear. I landed a fair sized Atlantic on the Sage 5 weight switch rod the other day, this is an 11 foot long rod. Only took a few minutes to get him in and it was a ton of fun. However, at the same time I think you got to be smart about it and not target big fish with light gear.

I've heard a lot about the 389 LL recently and have also heard that the new ZXL 386 is very similar. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with both of these rods?

Thanks for all the advice. So, I got my hands on a scale and have figured out how many grams that I would like to remove, it's approximately 3.8-4.2 grams. I think I'll take it all off the body close to the rear taper as you suggested. It should equate to no more than 10 feet of line. Bowcane you also mentioned doing a welded splice. I've found a few tutorials online about how to splice lines but was wondering if you had preferred method.

I really like fly fusion as well, they have beautiful photos / layout and great content; however, I wonder sometimes if they proof their articles before going to print. I picked up a few of their issues last year and noticed a considerable amount of typos, punctuation and grammatical errors. Fly Tyer is the magazine that I don't miss an issue of.

The W/C 4/5 is 320 and I would like to get it down to 255-265. I'm sure I could find a scale to approximately weight out what I need to remove it's just knowing what part of the line to cut out under the premise that I want the most weight in the shortest amount head remaining while still having something that will turn over.

Yeah, definitely risky, but what the hell. I bought it months ago and have another line that works with the rod. The line is actually the W/C 4/5 Spey. The rod is the Sage 5110. Since I don't have an adequate scale or calipers this will definitely be a trial and error thing. If you don't mind could you elaborate on how I can modify the W/C to cast tips. Thanks for the response. C.

I have a line that is a bit too heavy for the rod I bought it for and I can't return it so I'm thinking about cutting it back a bit - it loads great with half the head out. My question is what is the best way to do this? Should I just chop it, put a loop on the end and be done? Or, should I take line out from the middle of the head and splice it back together? The line is a Rio Windcutter 4/5. The idea is to just lighten it up a bit without messing with the taper too much so that it does what it's supposed to but casts a little more crisper and so that my rod wont buckle when trying to roll cast a bunch or line or when casting a sinking leader. Any help would be greatly appreciated. C.

There are a few places in town that do that kinda repair. Try these guys: http://www.alpinethreadworks.com/repairs.html

I'll second that.

I'm no expert but I would think that either a 3 or 4 would work with the 4 being a little more versatile. I have a 3 that I only use for dries, but it is a slower action rod; however, I know that some guys use the same rod for light nymph fishing. Regarding the 4, I've often fished an XP 490 on the bow with heavy triple nymph rigs and it worked great. Many guys even fish smaller/unweighted streamers with 4 weights, out East at least. When I was in Ab I was wishing I owned a 7 for streamer fishing on the Bow. Anyway, I would think a medium to fast 3 or 4 (Sage Fli or Z perhaps) would be great for all around Ab water but if you were just looking for something for smaller water and Bow river dry fly fishing maybe think about something a tad slower, a Sage Launch or VT2 maybe.

I believe it. After a few sessions with a physio I'm convinced my issues are resulting from poor core strength.

Thanks for that. I think I may return it actually, it doesn't seem to fit right, it limits movement a little too much for my liking. However, I think that this type of belt could help people with existing problems like myself, with a proper fit that is. Are they effective for preventing injury, who knows.

Was wondering if anyone has one of these and if so how you like it? I have some minor lower back issues and bought one today. $100 but worth it if I can carry a decent amount of weight on my back, if need be, w/o pain.

Interesting

That it in a nutshell; great post!!

I have the Korkers with the Boa lacing as well, no complaints here. I have about a hundred days over three years on them and aside from the felt, which is pretty much toast (it's thin to begin with), they're like new. I see they have a new non-felt insert, will have to check that out. Nothing against Simms, I love their stuff.

Nice!! What weight Z is that and how do you like it?

Sage waived my service fee due to the problem being related to manufacturing. I just had to pay to ship the item to them; very pleased!

I think I'm going to go, tickets are still available. I'm almost hoping that the weather is *hit so fishing is outta the picture.

Les Claypool is playing at UofC on Sunday.

Just got my reel back from warranty repair, took less than a month total. I'm very pleased aside than the $50 shipping and handling fee. Considering that the problem with my reel was a manufacturing issue I feel that the fee shouldn't apply.

Thanks to everyone for all the input. A ton of great insight and invaluable tips. A lot of people will benefit no doubt. Hawg, this is how I approach it as well. Depending on how far out I'm fishing I either mend line or roll cast to get my indicator upstream, I then mend accordingly. I've always thought that this would give me a longer drag free drift. As explained by someone else: "Without getting the indicator upstream of the nymph, the indicator, floating in that high velocity water at the surface, will pull the nymph along and not give it an opportunity to sink. As soon as the indicator hits the water make a quick mend to move the indicator upstream of where the nymph landed in the water. This gives the nymph a few seconds to start to sink before being pulled along by the indicator. As the indicator starts to overtake the nymph, make a second upstream mend of the indicator. (borrowed from http://streamsideadventures.com/tips-and-t...ics.html)" Therefore, wouldn't drifting the indy downstream of your flies, drag? I'm thinking the issues I'm having are likely due to a combination of things, of which are slowly coming together for me. The big thing I think still is the leader length. Have also been thinking of trying to rig my lower nymphs on dropper tags to eliminate slack between them and the indy. Also thinking of trying a straight mono leader to get down quicker, I've been using a tapered butt section for the last while. Lots of stuff to play with. Thanks again, I'll keep yall posted.

Thanks, definitely hitting it up tonight.

Yet another post in my continuing series of posts on indicator nymphing. Please forgive me. To start, I'm doing well. I'm getting into fish farily regularly and am confident with most of my game. However, I've recently realized that I'm missing a considerable number of strikes which I beleive is due to poor stricke detection. For example, I hooked a nice fish the other night completely by accident. I wasn't completely happy with my drift and was picking up to recast and had a fish on. I've had similar things happen few times actually. Considering this I imagine that I'm missing a considerable number of hits in the run of a day on the water. While I do realize that this is part of the game we play, at the same time I know I could be hooking into more. I'm sure this topic has been discussed at length before but I thought I would bring it up it it's own thread, that being what are some indicator placement and strike detection strategies for long line nymphing. I'd be curious to discuss things such as what approach is optimal in regards to changing indicator to top fly depth while working a piece of water. As well, another thing that has gotten me wondering is if I'm missing strikes because I may be drifitng too fast. I generally try to drift with, or slightly slower than, the speed of the current with my indicator upstream of my rig. However, I am wondering if I should maybe mend more upstream to slow my drift down a bit and that that might allow for easier strike detection. I've been trying a lot of these things out but am hoping to shorten the learning curve as well as help others out who may be having the same problems by bring this up here. C.

I've had the same problem with fluro. The last few spools I've bought are Rio 3X and I find your clinch knots have to be perfect for it to not cut itself. Blood knots seem to work well when tying fluro to a mono leader.