chiasson

I've been diligent about cleaning sunscreen off my hands before touching my line, leader and flies as well.

I have the standard GPX on my 4 WT (XP 490) and I really like it. I love fishing this setup. Does anyone notice that the GPX isn't smooth though?

So the topic is, have you purchased a line(s) that just didn't work out to the point that they were useless to you or at least no good for what you bought them for. Im guessing that the Spey guys probably belong to this club.

I heard it numerous times that a DT in a given line weight will mend more easily and cast better at short distances than a WF of the same weight but never really understood why the casting is easier? Maybe a DT3 is what I'm looking for instead of overlining my rod. Regarding the whole overlining debate, the latest Orvis fly fishing podcasts is a primer on floating lines; they discuss this very topic. Dude claims that most new faster action rods need to be overlined and that this is the idea behind lines like GPX etc. The line weight system, which is fixed, i.e. by definition a 6 wt is 160 grains in the first 30 feet etc., was designed before all the fast rods. Then again, it's all what works for you personally in the end. Anyways, check out this podcast, I'm learning tons. http://www.orvis.com/podcast

Great to hear that overlining light rods is commonplace. I have a 8'6" med 3wt and it's perfect in every way but it just doesn't load when fishing dries at short distances, needs just a little more weight. I bought this rod as a dry fly rod. Anyways, I've been thinking for awhile of overlining it and will probably go for it now. I was thinking of getting a 2, which would be fun and I will get one someday, but a long 3 makes more sense for where I fish (roll casting and fair sized trout) and it's just near impossible, and not really practical at all, to own a different rod for every application, for a dude like me anyways .

Korker guides are great. 3 years on them and absolutely no problems. I just bought the aquastealth inserts and they're good but I find not as good as felt, I'm kinda wishing I went with the studded version.

I often leave my nicest reel on my work desk.

I have the Korkers with the Boa system and am very happy with them; have well over a hundred days on them over 2 years and not a problem. I'll admit I was skeptical about the Boa lacing when I bought them but they've held up great. I recently wore out the felts that came with them and replaced them with their version of sticky rubber. It works but not as good as felt. I personally don't like the idea of wearing spikes but I think with feltless boots it's may be a necessity.

Lee Valley sells a cleat like that as well. I've seen a lot of hikers with them. I hear they're very good. They are called Icers.

Been curious about all this myself lately as well. For anyone who hasn't see it, find the movie The Ghost of Flight 401. It's the true story of what are supposedly the best documented hauntings, that collectively make the strongest case of proof of ghosts in history. In short, not to ruin the movie for anyone interested, a plane went down near Miami in the early seventies and the ghost of one of pilots who died in the crash haunted the fleet for months. Numerous pilots and flight attendants saw him and some even spoke to him, there's even a flight data recording of the ghost speaking. There is also a new book out by Dan Aykroid's father documenting a long history of mediums in the Aykroid family. Dan and his father were on Larry King the other night plugging it. Makes ya wonder. We'll all know the truth someday, that is if it's all real. Youtube has some cool stuff as well, just don't watch before bed . I haven't experienced anything paranormal myself but I'm open to it happening, preferably when I'm not alone . I also hope that first contact, or disclosure and proof that it has already happened, happens during my life time.

I have this rod and am very happy with it. Incredibly versatile rod. I'm still searching for the perfect line for it but I find it to be a great rod for long line nymphing and underhanding streamers on the Bow. Trout of all sizes are lots of fun to catch on it. Since I got it it's been the only rod I use when the fish aren't rising. I hear good things about the Loomis 5 weight switch as well. I think the Loomis has nicer cork and guides than the Sage.

Some Atlantic flies I've tied recently.

Stunning Fall scenery. I took this photo a few days ago while standing in the middle of the tidal pool of a popular Salmon River in Cape Breton. I was wearing a t-shirt; I think it was -15C in Calgary that day .

Being creative with my camera while waiting my turn in a pool on Middle River, Cape Breton, N.S. A beautiful Fall day.

If your looking for a 6 weight streamer rod, in my opinion the faster the better. I have the Z690 and it buckles when casting heavier or bulky wind resistant flies, my main rod otherwise. However, I wonder if a TCR or TCX in a 6 would be a better all around streamer rod. I'd personally like to get a 9-9.5 ft 7 weight for a big fly streamer rod at some point.

I've been curious about this. In making these types of flies without the shanks what is the best way to attach the dropper hook? I was thinking to put the dropper hook on some heavy mono and then to lash it with tying thread to the shank of the cut off streamer hook, maybe use some super glue for good measure.

Thanks MAx, I'm curious how they are tied, do they use dropper hooks off of the bend of a hook that the fly is tied on, or is the bend cut off of the hook or, am I way off base? I found this link with a tutorial on how to tye intruders without tubes, is this the idea? http://www.angelfire.com/wa/salmonid/fly574.html

Great info! So, For the inline splice what is the best thing to use for the braid?

Max, those streamers look killer. Intruders?

This is "the Sage noodle"? I think Troutfitters had one in, it may still be there. I gave er a wiggle; it seemed like it would be a lot of fun on smaller trout. I also agree with the comment that bigger fish can be effectively and safely landed with lighter gear. I landed a fair sized Atlantic on the Sage 5 weight switch rod the other day, this is an 11 foot long rod. Only took a few minutes to get him in and it was a ton of fun. However, at the same time I think you got to be smart about it and not target big fish with light gear.

I've heard a lot about the 389 LL recently and have also heard that the new ZXL 386 is very similar. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with both of these rods?

Thanks for all the advice. So, I got my hands on a scale and have figured out how many grams that I would like to remove, it's approximately 3.8-4.2 grams. I think I'll take it all off the body close to the rear taper as you suggested. It should equate to no more than 10 feet of line. Bowcane you also mentioned doing a welded splice. I've found a few tutorials online about how to splice lines but was wondering if you had preferred method.

I really like fly fusion as well, they have beautiful photos / layout and great content; however, I wonder sometimes if they proof their articles before going to print. I picked up a few of their issues last year and noticed a considerable amount of typos, punctuation and grammatical errors. Fly Tyer is the magazine that I don't miss an issue of.

The W/C 4/5 is 320 and I would like to get it down to 255-265. I'm sure I could find a scale to approximately weight out what I need to remove it's just knowing what part of the line to cut out under the premise that I want the most weight in the shortest amount head remaining while still having something that will turn over.

Yeah, definitely risky, but what the hell. I bought it months ago and have another line that works with the rod. The line is actually the W/C 4/5 Spey. The rod is the Sage 5110. Since I don't have an adequate scale or calipers this will definitely be a trial and error thing. If you don't mind could you elaborate on how I can modify the W/C to cast tips. Thanks for the response. C.