Optimal Weight For Nymphs??

[chiasson]

New tyer here.

 

I've been playing around trying to get my nymphs as heavy as possible without being too bulky. The ones I'm liking are averaging between .20 and .25 grams, which seems to be a tad heavier than their store bought counterparts. I'd love to get most of the weight I need into the flies and forgoe the splits. Is this even possible? I'm thinking about trying some of those tungsten beads.

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.,

C.

[headscan]

You could try a tungsten bead and a few wraps of lead wire right behind it. Might make your nymph a bit front heavy and nose dive a little though. Don't know how much of a difference that would make to the fish...

[Nick0Danger]

You can get Lead or lead free wire pretty thin to wrap the hook, part or whole, i like to wrap right behind the bead 4 or 5 turns. Tungsten is just to expensive for my cheap dutch rear end. I like to use a wire worm as the point fly and it gets every thing down nice and quick as well.

[seanbritt]

I like to have nymphs weighted too so I don't have to use splits. I haven't actually weighed the nymphs. I tend to experiment and see which ones work the best, then mimic the weight (usually lead or lead free weight and/or beadheads) with others. Once you have a pattern weighted the way you like, then you're usually set for similar patterns.

[bhurt]

Here is a suggestion,

 

Instead of using weighted nymphs why not use barrel swivels? I buy then in 4 distintive sizes and use that as my weight.

 

Last year I used exclusivly weighted nypmhs and did well and this year I am using unweighted nymphs (I use my stone, sjw, etc.... & my diffrent sizes of barrel swivels as my weight)

 

By using this method I have found a couple of things.

 

1. Saves my leader

2. Easy to adjust diffrent weights

3. keeps all three nymphs in line, and get very little tangles

4. allows me to use unweighted nymphs (have caught more bigger fish so far this year then last year at about the same time)

 

In the end use what you like to use but this is just what I suggest if you do not want to use splits.

[chiasson]

Here is a suggestion,

 

Instead of using weighted nymphs why not use barrel swivels? I buy then in 4 distintive sizes and use that as my weight.

 

Last year I used exclusivly weighted nypmhs and did well and this year I am using unweighted nymphs (I use my stone, sjw, etc.... & my diffrent sizes of barrel swivels as my weight)

 

By using this method I have found a couple of things.

 

1. Saves my leader

2. Easy to adjust diffrent weights

3. keeps all three nymphs in line, and get very little tangles

4. allows me to use unweighted nymphs (have caught more bigger fish so far this year then last year at about the same time)

 

In the end use what you like to use but this is just what I suggest if you do not want to use splits.

 

 

Bhurt, Thanks.

 

This was suggested to me when I first started and was having trouble with tangles, but I never did tried it. I somehow got the knack of casting, if you can call it that, multiple nymph rigs and forgot about it. What swivels do you use? I'll definitely give this a try.

 

C.

[maxwell]

im all for teh swivel and un wieghted or lightly weighted nymph rigs.. i find i get a little less moss on my hooks and dont drag up as many sticks either but still get them right in teh zone on bottom...... i use too be all about taking nymphs and making them into cannon balls.... but if u want too weight a nymph down i would say tungston is the way too go(never really used them PRICEY) and find some lead tape!!!!!!! love the stuf...... ive bin using it for a few years now and hardly use beads any more.. its the cats ass imho!!!!!! also keep in mind u can make nymphs with beed bodies like 3-5 green beeds and a black beed for a caddis larvae.. or like i do tye alot of copper john spinoffs with wire bodies(i dont use beadhead johns anymore tho jsut wire bodies) but with a tungston beed and wire body u cant get much more weight into a fly... same with beed body flies......... i remeber making a cone stone once too... i took 3 meduim cones with rubber legs in between for legs then i had 4 small cones on the back end and the 5th cone spun the other way too get the nice short tapered back end... sunk like a ROCK but sucked big time when u lost a pricey fly like that!

[Rp3flyfisher]

I have been tying a ton of Czech Nymphs as of late.

 

i have been using flat lead tape, but I just found out you can get Flat tungsten sheets as well. I have not found any yet, but when I do, I will let you know.

 

Rick

[Fishscape]

What are barrel swivels?

 

Anyone know where you can get flat tungsten sheets online?

 

I was wondering if using unweighted nymphs and using split shot or some other weight to get the line down may make for a more lifelife action in the water. What I mean is that the nymph will be more affected by variations in the current and behave more like a real nymph than a heavily weighted object that bumps along the bottom. Something to think about.

 

 

[cheeler]

I've found the tungsten soft sheets (rubberized material) at The Fishin Hole, but its a bit tricky to work with, because if you use too much tension on your thread you'll just end up cutting through the sheet.

[hydropsyche]

What I mean is that the nymph will be more affected by variations in the current and behave more like a real nymph than a heavily weighted object that bumps along the bottom. Something to think about.

 

And think hard about it. I'd say any nymph size 12 and down should be unweighted with the rest of the line providing the means to get it down. Don't rule out split shot, swivel or a SJW to get it down. With a small nymph 12 to 16 off the bottom of a SJW, that nymph is in the zone and has a bouyancy equal to the real thing.

 

In slow water, I will often use, from the bottom up, small nymph, 12in mono, another small nymph, 12in mono, swivel, 12 in mono, small shot, 12 in mono, another small shot, 12 inch mono and one more shot (adjust shot per water conditions). It almost cast like a dry setup. Admittedly, when it does ball up, its a real *iotch to untangle, so don't use in windy weather.

[fish432]

tungsten bead and a couple of wraps of lead is as heavy as mine get. Need for and more weight and split shot goes on the line. Most of my nymphs carry at least some weight unless they are meant to fish near surface or are too small to bother with. I never liked the swivel idea split shot is so easy to work with comes on and off fast. I am one that constantly adjusts my weight to suit each spot. Retying swivels everytime i want to chang my weight seem like too much trouble.

[maxwell]

I have been tying a ton of Czech Nymphs as of late.

 

i have been using flat lead tape, but I just found out you can get Flat tungsten sheets as well. I have not found any yet, but when I do, I will let you know.

 

Rick

 

i know when working at wholesale last winter they sold the tungston sheet.. forgot about that stuff.. was pricey......

 

[bhurt]

What are barrel swivels?

 

Anyone know where you can get flat tungsten sheets online?

 

I was wondering if using unweighted nymphs and using split shot or some other weight to get the line down may make for a more lifelife action in the water. What I mean is that the nymph will be more affected by variations in the current and behave more like a real nymph than a heavily weighted object that bumps along the bottom. Something to think about.

 

Swivels - hmm I dunno how to really describe them, go over to the spinning section at wholesale and get them there I basically use three sizes, small, medium, large.

 

This was basaically my thoughts as well, that is why I am going unweighted nymphs this year (or as much as possible there are still some patterns I tie that uses a beed head)

 

As for weight I just use a bigger size barrowl swivel for slower water, no need to throw on a ton of weight espically in slower water when you get longer drifts and more time for the set up to sink.

 

So far this month I have caught 3 big browns with running this system but am really intrested to see how it works during the summer and fall months.

[misterbig]

Swivels - hmm I dunno how to really describe them, go over to the spinning section at wholesale and get them there I basically use three sizes, small, medium, large.

 

This was basaically my thoughts as well, that is why I am going unweighted nymphs this year (or as much as possible there are still some patterns I tie that uses a beed head)

 

As for weight I just use a bigger size barrowl swivel for slower water, no need to throw on a ton of weight espically in slower water when you get longer drifts and more time for the set up to sink.

 

So far this month I have caught 3 big browns with running this system but am really intrested to see how it works during the summer and fall months.

 

Would you be able to explain further on the set up you use? Is it leader(9'), swivel, tippet(? Inches), hook, tippet(? Inches), hook, tippet(? Inches), hook. or do you add more swivels along the line. Also is your cast style modified(slow open loops)

 

 

[maxwell]

the swivel set up is a tapered leader 5-6 feet long with your swivel on the end you can regulate your depth of your nymph setup from there.. it replaces splitshot and if u want too add shot quick u can attach it above the swivel and it wont slide down.. or you upsize your swivel...... we have bin suing this setup for the past few seasons.. it saves you tapered leaders and allows you too keep them the same length without cutting them back inch by inch when you run short on tippet...... they come in sizes like numbers from 2-14 i like 4's 8's n 12's

 

troutscape u got the right idea.. less anchor drag more lifelike movement.. also makes it easier for fish too suck em back i believe.. but then again fish clamp down on wire worms stones etc often and dont seem too mind... but that is the idea behind the weighted leader and low weighted nymphs

[WETDUCK]

I myself like to use the micro swivel. and i use lead wrap above the swivel. I have personally found that with the lead wrap you can easyly ajust your weight quickly and dail in on the weight better.i have also found it tracks better on the bottom and cast better with the hinge point spread out.Split shot hinges badly i think and sucks to take off... For me i dont like the weighted swivels. i find that when i do get hung up... Its the swivel!!! and i lose all 3 bugs instead of losing 1 fly. Just my observation!!! Got to love no more line twist!! Swivels rock!!! i also like to use a black swivel, to try to keep my shotting and swivel as invisible as possible !!!

[birchy]

I myself like to use the micro swivel. and i use lead wrap above the swivel. I have personally found that with the lead wrap you can easyly ajust your weight quickly and dail in on the weight better.i have also found it tracks better on the bottom and cast better with the hinge point spread out.Split shot hinges badly i think and sucks to take off... For me i dont like the weighted swivels. i find that when i do get hung up... Its the swivel!!! and i lose all 3 bugs instead of losing 1 fly. Just my observation!!! Got to love no more line twist!! Swivels rock!!! i also like to use a black swivel, to try to keep my shotting and swivel as invisible as possible !!!

 

I'm assuming you meant to say "it's the splitshot!"?

[maxwell]

the swivel and serve as teh splitshot fursure or yo can add splitshot aswell.. if u find u have no nymphs u lost the top nymph .........if yo find u lost tho swivel too it was teh swivel that got hung up........

[birchy]

So I found a bunch of these amongst my spinning gear...

 

 

Pulled out the needle nosed pliers and took off the clip part.. ready to try out this swivel idea next time out! Looking forward to it.

[chiasson]

And think hard about it. I'd say any nymph size 12 and down should be unweighted with the rest of the line providing the means to get it down. Don't rule out split shot, swivel or a SJW to get it down. With a small nymph 12 to 16 off the bottom of a SJW, that nymph is in the zone and has a bouyancy equal to the real thing.

 

In slow water, I will often use, from the bottom up, small nymph, 12in mono, another small nymph, 12in mono, swivel, 12 in mono, small shot, 12 in mono, another small shot, 12 inch mono and one more shot (adjust shot per water conditions). It almost cast like a dry setup. Admittedly, when it does ball up, its a real *iotch to untangle, so don't use in windy weather.

 

I've been curious about trying to spread the shot around my nymphing rigs for when it doesn't make sense to put all the weight in the nymphs. I've heard guys mention it on FF shows. I would think that it would both cast more easily and drift more naturally. I have no problem casting a standard rig with 2 shots (both above the top fly) but have found the need lately to add a third shot for certain situations (this doesn't cast very well at all). I'll definitely give this a try. Does anyone know of any variations?

[Simpson]

I like to use a wire worm as the point fly and it gets every thing down nice and quick as well.

 

That's how I roll