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Posted

Another question for the board. I am relitively new to still water fishing and have been experimenting with chironomid fishing. One of the proplems i have is the hook set. Once I get the right depth with the fly and start getting hits, I am unable to actually hook the fish.

I have tried setting with the slightest twitch of the strike indicator. No luck

I have tried setting when the indicator goes fully under. No luck

I have even tried to wait that extra second or two. Still with no luck

It's not like i'm not getting any into the net but it seems that I'm missing way more than I should be.

Again any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Bill

Posted

Set the hook as soon as you see anything out of the ordinary. Sometimes it is only a tiny slow down during a float/swing of the indicator. When fishing calm water, you might only see a rotation of the indicator rather than the indicator being submerged. The faster you set the hook the better. As the length of the leader increases, so must the aggressiveness of the strike. Hit 'em quick, hit 'em hard.

The biggest reason for missing those quick, tiny hits are because they are often from small fish slashing at your fly. Bigger fish are more deliberate and usually your indicator goes down nicely.

Posted

As you said, the fish will take your imitation differently each time, so you basically have to set the hook at any movement what so ever.

 

Also, fish will take the fly differently at different depths as well.

 

When they are feeding on Chironomids right at the bottom, the hit will be very subtle and will barely move the indicator. This is because the Larva, (Bloodworm), or Pupa is just sitting suspended waiting to build up some gases in their skin so they can then rise to the surface. They can sit suspended for fairly long periods of time and the fish know this, so they will slowly sip them up at their leisure.

In this case, you will want to use a fairly hard hook set at any twitch or movement at all for the best chance at getting a good set.

 

Once the Pupa start to rise to the surface, the fish start to Gulp them up while cruising in circles at the fish's selected depth. As you said, once you find this depth, you will be into fish. Because the fish are now moving more when feeding, the indicator is more likely to be pulled down more. If you watch, you will be able to see which way the fish was moving when it took the fly by the direction the indicator moves. It will be very slight sometimes, but will become very obvious over time after getting a number of strikes.

When the indicator goes down now, you can set the hook hard in the opposite direction. A lot of times I see fishermen set the hook by lifting the rod straight up and back, which very likely could be pulling the fly in the opposite direction, thus either not getting a good set, or even pulling the hook out of the fish's mouth.

 

The closer to the surface you get, the more aggressive the fish will become. Towards the end of the emergence, the fish become more aggressive because they know dinner is almost over, so they will swim faster and take the fly harder. Now the hook set should be less of a problem.

The problem now becomes setting it too hard where you risk snapping off immediately after setting the hook, so lighten up the hook set and again, look for the direction the fish took the fly and set in the opposite direction.

 

You should also learn the cycle of the Chironomids so that you will know better what depth to fish. The prime times to fish Chironomids is between 10 am and 3 pm. Before and after that will be sketchy at best, but right before the end of the emergence/hatch is usually great action. Then it's time to switch to scuds, leeches, etc.

 

Another tip for you that might help. There is a misconception that the Chironomid pattern must be perfectly verticle. I've read it in articles and even read it here, but after studying Chironomids for awhile and also talking to some of the experts, I've found this to be wrong.

Chironomids actually rise to the surface at about a 45 degree angle because the gases they collected be able to rise put them in this position.

This is why it is recommended to use a loop knot to attch the fly. This allows the fly to move naturally and the materials used to tie the fly will usually cause it to sit at about 45 degrees.

Also, if using more than one fly, tie them eye to eye, rather than off of the shank of the top hook. This will cause the middle fly or flies to sit more horizontal.

 

Not only will you get more strikes, but the more horizontal position of the hook will allow you to get a better hook set.

 

Sorry to make this so long, but I love my Chironomids and I'm kind of bored right now.

 

Good luck.

Guest tallieho
Posted

the size of the indicator plays an important rule also .too big & the fish may feel the drag,too small & you can't see it at the slightest movement .just a few of the things i've experimented & learned.

Posted

Thanks guys for the advice and tips.

 

MissinTheBow - helps to understand the process, thanks. Many more things to think about and try. Good stuff.

 

Don - you are probably right about the size many small ones stocked I believe this year

 

 

 

Bill

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