Guest Sundancefisher Posted March 10, 2008 Posted March 10, 2008 On a scale of one to ten...how bad it it to regrout a whole shower? Can one do a partial without compromising the seams? What is the best way to remove the old grout? Thanks. Sun Quote
Weedy1 Posted March 10, 2008 Posted March 10, 2008 On a scale of one to ten...how bad it it to regrout a whole shower? 10 if you do the whole shower, try just the spaces between tiles. Why are you re-grouting? Do you have a leak? Quote
bloom Posted March 10, 2008 Posted March 10, 2008 Never re-grouted, but I did tile and grout a whole shower...wasn't bad at all. I have an attachment for my dremel that is designed for removing grout. Check it out...probably the easiest thing to use. Quote
ÜberFly Posted March 10, 2008 Posted March 10, 2008 There are attachments for rotary tools as suggested or a hand grout removal tool. I have used both and start with the rotary tool then use the hand tool for finishing up/cleaning the gap. It's pretty straight forward, but make sure you use the proper grout for the application and then silicone the grout lines afterwards as per directions of the product. Any "how to " type of book can walk you through it, or info available online. It is a tedious process to remove grout for an entire shower/bath... If it's just a repair it isn't too bad. If just a repair make sure the area is dried out completely and that all surrounding tiles haven't been compromised. If the dry wall underneath is at all wet - rip it all down and start for scratch and put in a proper waterproof membrane so that it never happens again (forget green/blue board, etc. - go with concrete AND membrane no matter what anyone says! As with rock climbing, always back up your system!!! Do you want it to last 5 years or 30?! Not a plumber but just a handy guy, though often handy men don't make good plumbers, so if in doubt get a pro (plumber/tile setter - not always one in the same, however)! Cheers! Peter Quote
Guest Sundancefisher Posted March 11, 2008 Posted March 11, 2008 10 if you do the whole shower, try just the spaces between tiles. Why are you re-grouting? Do you have a leak? An inspector found moisture behind the tiles in one spot. Upon close examination the grout is cracked and badly colored. Looks like a time to repair. A half assed job covering the bad grout with a silicone did not seem to help. So I am going to have to do something. Quote
ÜberFly Posted March 11, 2008 Posted March 11, 2008 An inspector found moisture behind the tiles in one spot. Upon close examination the grout is cracked and badly colored. Looks like a time to repair. A half assed job covering the bad grout with a silicone did not seem to help. So I am going to have to do something. Yeah once the water gets in, you're hooped!! Sealing it with silicone after the fact will do nothing! If it's just one or two tiles, pull the tile(s) (without breaking it/them, if possible) and dry the area out completely. You can just replace the tile(s) and re-grout (matching the grout colour might be an additional challenge if non-white). When prying the tiles off, make sure to protect the tiles around it/them so you don't chip/crack them. Don't leave it alone, it won't be long until all the tiles start falling off and mold would definitely be an issue (don't ask, but my exp. with regards to that - previous owner did a patch job with a surround and I ended up gutting the entire stall and the mold behind there was unbelievable (glad I gutted it). Also, if you don't a have a fan in that particular bathroom, put one in!! P Quote
JMasson Posted March 11, 2008 Posted March 11, 2008 There are attachments for rotary tools as suggested or a hand grout removal tool. I have used both and start with the rotary tool then use the hand tool for finishing up/cleaning the gap. It's pretty straight forward, but make sure you use the proper grout for the application and then silicone the grout lines afterwards as per directions of the product. Any "how to " type of book can walk you through it, or info available online. It is a tedious process to remove grout for an entire shower/bath... If it's just a repair it isn't too bad. If just a repair make sure the area is dried out completely and that all surrounding tiles haven't been compromised. If the dry wall underneath is at all wet - rip it all down and start for scratch and put in a proper waterproof membrane so that it never happens again (forget green/blue board, etc. - go with concrete AND membrane no matter what anyone says! As with rock climbing, always back up your system!!! Do you want it to last 5 years or 30?! Not a plumber but just a handy guy, though often handy men don't make good plumbers, so if in doubt get a pro (plumber/tile setter - not always one in the same, however)! Cheers! Peter Putting a vapour barrier directly against concrete can cause major water damage to your basement slab or your foundation walls. Concrete is a porous material that will absorb water and the only way to get the water out of concrete is to let it breath and dry naturally. Putting a vapour barrier over concrete stops it from breathing and drying causing mold and water damage. If the process goes on long enough it can do enough damage that it is a major job to fix it (lifting your house off its' foundation and cribbing/ pouring a new one or just bulldozing it right down). Drywall should never be put directly against concrete because it does absorb water and will ruin the boards (not to mention difficulties with fastening it to concrete). A wall should never be put directly against concrete for the same reason. You should never put a vapour barrier underneath a wall that will be touching concrete (always use All Weather Wood (A.W.W.)...the green stuff) as you have to nail through the vapour barrier to secure the wall, thus putting holes in your vapour barrier and rendering it useless. There should always be at least one inch of airspace between a wood stud and a foundation wall. The same goes for steel studs as they will rust. I have ripped many sets of frost walls out of houses because of water damage caused by improper use of a vapour barrier. Since I'm a carpenter and don't do tile setting I unfortunately can't help out too much with the tile questions. If it gets to be a big job with lots of ripping and renovating involved (hopefully not) let me know. I've been looking for an excuse to come down to Calgary anyways . Quote
ÜberFly Posted March 11, 2008 Posted March 11, 2008 Putting a vapour barrier directly against concrete can cause major water damage to your basement slab or your foundation walls. Concrete is a porous material that will absorb water and the only way to get the water out of concrete is to let it breath and dry naturally. Putting a vapour barrier over concrete stops it from breathing and drying causing mold and water damage. If the process goes on long enough it can do enough damage that it is a major job to fix it (lifting your house off its' foundation and cribbing/ pouring a new one or just bulldozing it right down). Drywall should never be put directly against concrete because it does absorb water and will ruin the boards (not to mention difficulties with fastening it to concrete). A wall should never be put directly against concrete for the same reason. You should never put a vapour barrier underneath a wall that will be touching concrete (always use All Weather Wood (A.W.W.)...the green stuff) as you have to nail through the vapour barrier to secure the wall, thus putting holes in your vapour barrier and rendering it useless. There should always be at least one inch of airspace between a wood stud and a foundation wall. The same goes for steel studs as they will rust. I have ripped many sets of frost walls out of houses because of water damage caused by improper use of a vapour barrier. Since I'm a carpenter and don't do tile setting I unfortunately can't help out too much with the tile questions. If it gets to be a big job with lots of ripping and renovating involved (hopefully not) let me know. I've been looking for an excuse to come down to Calgary anyways . If this was in anyway directed towards my comments (though I don't think so), what I meant was "concrete board" not a concrete wall! P Quote
Nick0Danger Posted March 11, 2008 Posted March 11, 2008 Concrete board is great but hard to work with you could also consider the mold and mildew resistant drywall, the green stuff. Quote
Glenbow Posted March 11, 2008 Posted March 11, 2008 A good idea to rip it out, re-drywall with the green board & re-tile, & seal the grout. It'll be done right then. Quote
JMasson Posted March 11, 2008 Posted March 11, 2008 If this was in anyway directed towards my comments (though I don't think so), what I meant was "concrete board" not a concrete wall! P No, not necessarily directed towards your comments, just some helpful hints and advice that I have learned by seeing other's mistakes. Green board is pretty good but you have to very careful when with the seams. The only solid way of keeping water off your boards, studs and floor and preventing mold from growing is to be very careful when setting, grouting and sealing your tiles. I recommend using a GOOD quality silicone seal for caulking around the edges and also for caulking the grout. Also, it never hurts to redo your caulking once a year or if you see it cracking. Like I said, Sundance, if it turns into a big job and you need some help just let me know. I've got all the tools and would be more than willing to help out. Let's hope that there's not some serious water damage and it doesn't turn into a big reno. James Quote
ÜberFly Posted March 11, 2008 Posted March 11, 2008 As I mentioned previously use a waterproof membrane between the green/blue/concrete board tiles and it'll last for 30 + years!! Yes overkill, but worth the extra $ and a great reselling feature (take photos)! P Quote
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