SilverDoctor
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Posts posted by SilverDoctor
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Found some today at the shop, and am tying some evils with tungsten beads, and tungsten humps..anyone had experience with them?
(who need's wire worms, when u have an evil weevil that will be a rock!)
Bought a bunch in BC last year. They work great. All out now so have to look arround for more this winter.
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SilverDoctor:
I'd love to see some of those Intruders
I will make it a point to post when I get back. I've had most of my large fish on Intruders. I'm at work now and won't have time tonight as I'll be packing to leave in the morning.
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To each his own I guess, I assure you that you purchase fly tie items from China on a regular basis without knowing. I figure 1000 hooks for less than $65 is a good deal. I dont work for them or anything but I have had good luck with their product.
More than likely but as you said, to each his own.
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Heading out to BC Saturday morning. Visting with the folks in Kelowna then off to the Skeena on my yearly trip (actually probably the copper) for a couple of days. Tied up Golden Demons, Red Butt Skunks, Montreal Silver but mostly intruders plus a few others. Post when I get back.
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I've been using Tiemco and Diiachi for everything but nymphs. Mustads for nymphs and worms. I have placed a small ( 500) order to Togens and am very pleased with the hook quality. As far as I remember you have to buy in lots of 100/size. The standard drys are a bit shorter than a Tiemco 100. I emailed Togen and asked who makes his hooks and he didn't reply. I also purchased some beads from him and they are good quality. His prices are very reasonable if you buy large enough orders. If not the shipping cost/time kind of sours the deal for me. I do support many of the local fly shops and will always. They need our business too and we certainly need them. Rick.
I phoned Togens and found out from the gal at the desk that the hooks come out of China. I will not buy anything from that country. I'll stick with north American and British products. I normally buy all my materials from various local suppliers unless it is something not stocked or they can't bring it in.
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I always pinch split shot with forceps. Makes for a solid hold. Also be sure to push the leader material right to the back of the split shot hinge. Some varieties are also softer than others and open easier. They can also be dislodged if banged into rocks or on a snap cast.
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I only use a hopper dropper rig in shallow water next to the bank (less than 24"). And only when I see good rises. I fish other methods like high stick, swinging or indicator otherwise.
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Just think of what your gonna look like in a kilt, wet wading, casting and drunk on cheap scotch, with the rest of us cheering you on. Did I not mention the initiation ceremony that Speyghille and I are hosting for you and Glenbow?
Gordon talked me out of making you guys do the blindfolded river crossing for the final rite of passage....something about it's not covered in his Ghillies insurance policy or somethin'. You did'nt think it was going to be that easy to join the Clan, now did you?
.ps. Be sure and hide those fancy shooting head lines too, if Gordies around...he's kind of a traditionalist when it comes to these matters.
You forgot the part about casting and eating of the haggis while chanting the secret ritual broge "we seek thee yon bonney, little trout" and of course the casting of the blarney.
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I love Partridge, It suites my needs in the shapes I like. This winter I want to try Togens hooks out of BC.
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By the way flattening the stems is great for display flies to get everything to lay right but for fishing flies fracturing the stem by flattening can weaken the stem. I was chatting with a tyer in BC last fall who stopped doing that after client complaints his flies lost feathers.
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I use a mini pair of needle nose pliers at the bench as I tie. The trick is to keep horizontal as you squeeze and only use enough pressure to pinch the barb. That said some brand of hooks are more brittle than others. I got a batch of tiemco's a few years ago that fractured every time you pinched barbs. I have been using some Partridge hooks lately that are barbless. The perfect way to go, unfortunitly not all hook makers offer barbless.
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Just a point, trout are opportunistic. I don't believe for a moment that a trout will pass up a large morsel that it believes to be a meal. The trigger response may not be exactly that it is a hopper or a stonefly but a large something good to eat. I have Hopper patterns I fish that are orange and don't believe for a second that grasshopper are what the trout key on. Many of teh flies we fish are general imitations of life. Not exact copies.
That's why such classic flies like the mudder work. In a given situation it can be mistaken for anything from a Stone fly to a Minnow.
By the way great postes
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I'm looking for a few tips when tying the General Practitioner. flyangler.ca has a great step by step article, but I've been having trouble with two parts.
1. Are the Golden Pheasant tippets lacquered to keep them from separating?
2. The Rigneck Pheasant rump feathers tend to want to slide to the side, especially the two used for the carapace. Any tips on keeping these straight?
Thanks for your help
The GP comes in a lot of different styles. Tied quite a few of these over the years for the Steelhead market in BC. Don't lacquer the tippets, it will spoil the look and action of this fly. When you use your Golden pheasant tippets be sure to cut a "V" out of the feather and tie down the stem under your thread wraps. There are two things to look for, first the thread and material base must be flat. if you have tied with an uneven base it will be impossible to have finer materials sit straight. Second is the tying thread pressure, too much will make the tippets flair. Keep the first back wraps with less pressure and then gradually give it more pressure along its length, also keep your wraps close together.
As for the rumps,be sure to choose rumps that don't have an inherent curve. If you have a curve you can wet the feather and lay it on newspaper to dry to straighten it. Again be sure there is nothing under your rump (he he) to push it up, that is you base material should be reasonable flat. The same applies to the thread pressure (see above). Another thing that will come into play is the quality of your feathers.
Hope this helps. It's always had to make a judgment call without seeing what you've done.
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We settled on the Rio Windcutter line in 7/8/9 wt. which we'll pick up tomorrow. My speycasting teacher is taking a break because he came down with Lyme disease! I'll have to do some more grass casting.
If you intend to practice on grass you should check out a grass casting practice leader either commercial or make your own. They are basically a leader with short 2" pieces of mono or leader material tied onto about a 12" length. It grips at he grass to try and simulate water drag on the bottom of the D loop. I does help to simulate the action but nothing is like casting on water.
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My husband plans to fish with spoons on his spinning rod for steehead in BC. I just saw some spoon flies for casting with a flyrod at the flyshop today. One of them was shrimp colored. Hmmm. Methinks one could cast one with a speyrod. Or would this be "bad form"?
I could learn how to tie them here:
Should work but you had better put a swivel on one of those babies. I think from a casting point of view on steelhead there are a lot of other patterns that would be more suitable. I always try to contact local fly shops to see what is popular for the river at a given time.
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When you are using a hopper do you need to put floatant on it or should you. I would asume that with the foam one you don't want to. Not sure.
Ed
I never bother with a foam hopper. floats nice and with deer or elk hair on the wing it will be good for a long time. Often when I'm walking to the next pool I drop it in some dryer salts. I also tend to change flies quite often especially when they do get a bit waterlogged.
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I agree, a good book such as the "Essential Guide to Flyfishing" is the right place to start. Read it several times, then talk to the folks at the local flyshops when you stop in to pick up gear. They can help you with fly selection, leaders etc., and be a good resource in the learning process. There is also the option of enrolling in a flyfishing school like the one operated by
Jim & Linda Maclennan. www.mclennanflyfishing.com . Jim also is the author of several good flyfishing books that you should read.
And don't forget ouur own Toolmans & Max fine fishing courses. Not to mention meeting board members on hte water. I second Jims fine books. and of course read this forum's past posts.
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How common is it that you break your rod, i recieved my TFO CrX for my birthday one year ago..(one of many, i have about 5 in the household). Now, since recieving this rod, i've broken it numerous times (i mean, 5-6 times) and it's great that the break policy is so easy, but after a while, the 25 bucks start to add up, i think the only piece on my rod that is still original is the bottom 1/4. I broke it again today, while trying to net a fish, and it snapped all the way down the 3rd piece, so pretty much the middle of the rod, which seems just plain strange spot to break.....do i just keep getting unlucky, or is this a common problem?
What weight is the rod?
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question for ya
Are jungle cocks like mandatory in most of these fully dressed flies? i always see them!
Jungle cock is a standard on most classic full dressed salmon flies if you follow the full pattern. In my view it has always added a bit of style to a pattern. Nowadays however its pretty much anything goes. The price of Jungle cock is high even in low grades so you can always pick out a dedicated tier when they use it in fishing flies. There is now other substitute that is close to the feather.
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Depending on the color of pattern your using. I've used a thick elastic band for the backing. It may add to the bouyancy but add more lead. If you put a heavier fly for your first fly it'll bring it down enough.
I used elastic band at one time but found the water sun and weather seemed to affect them. The deemed to dry and crack. Maybe it was the variety of band.
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I'm sure a few computer shops around would be more than happy to let you have some used ones. (static bags, that is)
good Idea.
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When catching such a beautiful painting, you don't think about the size.
At least I don't.
well said!!
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Thanks for the tips I can't wait to give them a try.
Do you guys find that the usual holes aslo disappear during this time as they can pretty much swim anywhere undetected?
I find that they like to get out of the heavy flow and in tighter to shore or back eddies.
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I've used the same thing. The glean and slight darkening it provides really looks good.
Plus, my flies don't stick together.
Count me in on the dark computer bags, wish you could buy em.
Favorite Trout Flies To Swing
in Spey Casters Lounge
Posted
Skid Bitches have been great for me this year. Standard streamers haven't worked well although the doc's Dodger bead eyed streamer I gave you Toolman worked great for me with quite a number of large browns and rainbows. Teh best for me have been classic north country wets in tandem and triple flies.