Enigma

Does anyone have a recipe for a modern Jock Scott that still results in a fly similar to the original (visually and while used)? I have been trying to collect the "traditional" ingredients for a couple of years, but I've been unable to find most. Some of the ingrediants I can't even identify (perhaps differences in language between each side of the pond?). Any direction would be greatly appreciated. I would like to tie this for my uncle (John "Jock" Scott) as a gift. Thanks.

I have hired Maxwell in the past. He is an incredible resource, and he is also very engaging and energectic.

Thank you for posting this. I'd never seen it before. It was wonderful to watch.

Oops! I totally forgot about this. My bad! It is now on my written "to do" list.

Nymphing on a spey rod isn't a no-no . . . in fact, it is just about all I've done so far I find that the corrections (when I remember them . . . which is about 80% of the time ) are easier than on a single-handed rod. The extra length certainly helps. From my (very limited) POV, your leader may be a bit too long . . . but you'll mess with the taper if you cut it (I'm assuming you're using a tapered leader). However, if you're getting your nymphs where you want them you can just strip in the slack.

This thread has been around for a while, but I just read it for the first time so I'll add my $0.02. Michaels craft store (http://www.michaels.com) has some great boxes (in the beading/jewlery department) that can be used for hooks. Here is one example: http://www.michaels.com/art/online/display...oductNum=bd0767 If you sign up for the Michaels email list, you'll get a coupon for 40% off a regularly priced item (find this on the home page, in the bottom left corner). In addition to that first 40% off coupon, you'll receive future coupons (some are 40% of any regularly priced item, as well).

Whoops. It was UPS. The gentleman who shipped the waders has said he will not use UPS to ship to Canada again (despite the fact that it is much easier for him). He was blown away when I told him what the brokerage fee was. The waders arrived yesterday . . . and after putting them on I did a little happy dance around the house!!! I ordered the Large-Tall. They have a 9-10 foot, and I have a size 10 foot. The fit of the foot is really nice on me. There is room for some really toasty socks in there, and I don't think I'll get much (if any) bunchiness without thick socks. I have a high instep, and I easily got my feet into the feet of the waders. Instead of elastic on the gravel guards they've used straps/belts. Very nice! These are much easier to get down over the tops of my boots. The 36" inseam is just about perfect on me. I've got great mobility in them, and I can get my heavy fleece pants and a winter jacket underneath them. There is really good attention to detail: the wading belt (with back support) is nice and thick, and the shoulder straps have cushy pads on them to stop them from digging in. The only thing I'm not really excited about is that they don't have as flattering a shape as my Reddington Chena River waders. I figure that is a pretty small price to pay, however. I figure I'll convert my Reddington waders into hip waders for the warm days: chop the legs off, hem the tops of the legs, and attach some strapping and velcro or buckles.

Bwahahaha!!! 'Nuff said.

Well, I am appalled by her rational . . . but she does have a valid point: one person should not be able to make changes to another's account. An apology and a month's free service should be compensation enough for the unauthorized amalgamation of her account with her husband's. We have a heck of a time with our business cell phone accounts through Rogers, and I suspect her lawsuit may be why. It is absolutely painful whenever we have to make changes to any of them, as they are in our business name instead of our personal names.

Yes, happy birthday Here's hoping that there are many, many more of them, too.

It would be great to try this I suspect I will take you up on the offer. I have a high def vidoe camera. Unfortunately, I'm not a very good videographer. I would like to see your Wind-Warrior in action, too.

So, last Sunday Max explained to me in great detail how to build knotted tapered leaders to use with my 6wt 11.5' switch rod. He did a very good job Problem . . . I did a very crappy job of retaining the info. I have forgotten almost everything. I really need to start taking notes. Can anyone offer any advice? I wanted to pick the stuff up this evening so I could have them tied up for the weekend. That might not happen.

First one.

I've thought about this a few times today, and it keeps making me burst out laughing (I think the people around me find it unsettling). I would LOVE a demo

Well, I'm not a "fishing" pro . . . but I am a professional cartographer with a background in land surveying. The Garmin 60CSx is a good unit, I use the 60Cx however. The difference between the two (aside from price) is that the CSx has an electronic compass and barometric altimeter. I prefer to use an "old school" compass in the event I need one, and I don't like barometric altimeters, so I went with the Cx. Garmin finally got on the USB cable bandwagon and ditched their silly proprietary connectivity cables. One of the things that makes the CSx/Cx a unit worth considering is the antenna. The antenna will insure better communication with satellites in heavily forested or mountainous terrain. I have never lost the signal using the Cx, though that is absolutely a possibility that you MUST be prepared for (that, and dead batteries). Also, remember that a GPS is not fool proof. A satellite that is faulty can really mess with your readings, especially if you're not connected to many satellites. I've only seen this be a problem once in 11 years . . . and the error was obvious enough that it put me in Siberia. You need three satellites to solve horizontal positioning, and four satellites to solve vertical positioning. Ideally you want to be connected to a lot more than four, as this will help solve any errors from faulty satellites. Once again, an extended antenna on a handheld unit will aide in this. You will need a dataset. If you go with a Garmin the Map Source data is absolute garbage. I've looked at a variety of data sets for the handheld units (OilTrax, Ibycus, and Topo Canada), and I've purchased a couple of them, but I typically use Ibycus Topo (which is provided free by the creator and is downloaded via torrent from PirateBay). I have yet to encounter a situation where the Ibycus dataset was not correct. I have encountered a couple of situations where the Topo Canada dataset was incorrect. OilTrax is spectacular (a little slow to load), but the 2K price point puts it out of range for the average user. The only downside to Ibycus may be that it doesn't do routing . . . I don't consider this an issue but some people might. Don't trust a GPS with your life: have a map (you may have to mark up a map by hand using Google imagery) and compass. GPS units are an excellent tool, however, and with a little planning you shouldn't miss your destination again

OMG . . . that is seriously awesome

The running joke with my hardware/bait tossing fishing buddies is that I need a cube van to haul all of my fishing gear around . . . and they're right. I'm a gear junkie. This doesn't translate well to flyfishing . . . I'm still a gear junkie, but obviously I can't drag it all with me. Countless trips running to and from my car aren't realistic. I can't decided what I actually need, and what I don't. This will come with experience . . . but I'm hoping to learn from the experience of others I'm having a hard time figuring out what works for me in the way of carrying all of this stuff. I have a lanyard, which I like, but it doesn't hold a tremendous amount of stuff. I have a waist pack, which I don't like. It holds a lot of stuff, but is awkward and kind of heavy. I quite like my vest, and it distributes the weight of the things I'm carrying well, but I find it a little restrictive and it gets hot. Add a wading staff, net, water bottle, and camera to everything I'm dragging around and it gets silly. I put a telephone lineman to shame with all of the gear. Any suggestions for paring down some of the stuff I'm dragging along and figuring out the best way to carry what I do bring?

I worked in a drycleaners and launderers for five years. Buttoned-up or not it makes no difference to the amount of wrinkles. Leaving you shirts buttoned increases the chances that buttons will get pulled off in the wash. To decrease the amount of wrinkles, make sure you get them out of the dryer as soon as the dryer stops. Don't overload the dryer, either. You do not want them crumpled up in a ball in the dryer. If you take hot 'n' steamy showers, you might be able to get away without ironing at all if you hang your shirt on a hanger in the bathroom while you shower. Also (a lot of people don't know this) if you take your shirts to the drycleaners, they will be washed. If there are stains on the shirts the stains will be treated . . . but they'll still go into a washing machine (not you normal household variety) none-the-less. You can request that your shirts be drycleaned (costs a lot more), but that isn't any more effective in getting them clean, and drycleaning is a very toxic process. It is bad for the environment and you. The only tool to combat yellowing is bleach, and most drycleaners/launderers heavily bleach white shirts. Many drycleaners will do a "press only" on items for a reduced price. For shirts, you wash them at home, and then bring them into the cleaners after they come out of the washing machine (don't dry them . . . drycleaners press men's shirts while they are wet). Check to see if your local drycleaner does this though, as your shirts will be really wrinkly after a wet round trip in a grocery store bag.

I believe it is USPS. I've got one of those UPS invoices sitting on my kitchen table right now, and did I get nailed on that one!

Well, I've got a pair of waders on order. In the end, the winner was Wright & McGill. Their "Fly Girl" (dumb name . . . why do companies do that?) waders come in "Tall" with a 36" inseam. http://www.wright-mcgill.com/guidewear/fly...mens-waders.php The gent I spoke to was very helpful, and answered all of my questions. It helped that his wife is very tall (over 6'), and she comfortably wears the Fly Girl waders in a Tall. I'm a little worried that they might be a little too long, but I can work with that. The waders have a couple of nice non-standard features: removable shoulder straps and a bit of a back support system. There is no additional charge for the tall sizes, either. The only downside is the $50 flat rate shipping to Canada. I wasn't really looking for shorter inseams while I was doing all of this research, but Simms does make "short" ladies waders with an inseam of 28"-29". The claim that the "short" waders fit ladies who are 5'1" to 5'3" tall. Not all of the Simms "short" waders are custom orders. The Medium-Short (8-9 Foot), Large-Short (9-10 Foot), and XL-Short (9-10 Foot) do not incur a custom charge. To get the 6-7 foot in a short there will be a custom charge: either for the length of the wader (Small-Short) or for a change in foot size (Medium-Short or bigger waders, with a smaller foot). The folks at Simms have always been very helpful in the three phone calls I've made directly to them. Here are the details on what is available through the Custom Shop program: http://www.simmsfishing.com/site/custom_shop.html Orvis also has waders for "Petite" (a much nicer way to put it) ladies. They claim their petite sizes fit 5' to 5'4" tall. I had no luck in my two phone calls with Orvis. I never did get the info I was looking for from them (where the "to" and "from" is for the inseam measurement), and I never did get the return phone calls that were promised.

There is a lot of discrepancy in how companies measure the inseam. Reddington measures the inseam from the crotch to the floor/bottom of the foot. I'm not sure where Patagoina's measurement is to, as I was given that weird "toe seam" measurement.

Thanks I phoned Patagonia and I got a really weird answer as to the length of their long ladies waders: 37" to the toe-seam.?? I'll have to measure my Reddingtons and see what they are to the toe seam so I can compare the length. I also phoned Orvis, and it sounds like they might be the longest. They claim their long waders will fit ladies up to 6', but they also say that the inseam is only 32-33". I am generally pretty unimpressed with the whole production, and I'm considering converting my Reddingtons to hip waders with a pair of scissors and some velcro.

I'm not really Amazonian in height . . . but I'm starting to feel like it at 5'10". A couple of months ago I went into a local fly shop to see about getting some waders. I was very insistent that I wanted women's waders (and I still am). In the end, I decided on a pair of Simms in a double custom (custom foot and length). The salesman was going to get back to me to after finding out how long they would take to get in, and he never did. I took this as a "sign," as I discovered a couple of days later that the ladies "long" Reddington Chena River waders are actually an inch longer than the custom long Simms (and less than half the price) . . . so I bought a pair at a local shop in a size large long. After wearing them a few times, I decided that my Reddington's are quite a bit too short. Anyone know what the longest ladies waders on the market are (and hopefully where to find them)? I do not care about price at all at this point. I would give my first born for a pair of waders that fit (but not my second born: he's still really cute and isn't talking back yet).

I was able to get out with Greg for my casting lesson yesterday . . . It was a great time, and I learned so much! If I retain only half of what he taught me I'll still know twice as much as I did before I'm looking forward to next year's auction already. Great job, Rick . . . and thanks so much for donating your time, Greg.

Good grief, Sun. I'm not reading anything into it . . . What is there to read into? I'm jumping to no conclusions. His statement is very black and white. I see this as no reflection on him, but rather I see it as an under-developed thought that was probably typed in a rush. That is the only conclusion I am jumping to with regards to WesG or his statement, and it clearly gives him the benefit of the doubt.