Conor

Lornce- I see two styles of thorax bwo out there in the internets. One is a standard hackle trimmed flush, the other looks like it has a snow shoe hare post with a bunch of cdc loose wrapped for hackle. Which one are you using? I tend to like a standard para pattern in #16-18 for olives and either a Griffith's or hackle stacker midge in #18-22 (one usually works when the other doesn't, for some reason). Never had much luck fishing bigger than they are eating, but I am starting to suspect most people find fish rising in faster water than I usually look. Gotta check out some new water, I think.

Although I've caught them to 26-7", my biggest, both brown and rainbow, on the bow were 24"ers. A big 24" can really dwarf a snake 27". Now, who's got a picture of a +30" bow river trout? No bull trout, brian. .

If you chop up the underfur and mix it with dubbing it has a great effect. I don't think it is hollow at all; not the patch I have, at least. It is hard to cut it with decent scissors. Super durable and a little translucent. It is my favorite streamer fur, but I don't really use it that often. I have some issues with the harvest of apex predators, so I don't think I could bring myself to buy it. I am dreading the day I run out!

One time I drove way down south to a cutty stream in the middle of nowhere, as far as my little 4x would take me. I was on a solo fishing trip for a few days. But, sure enough, as soon as I get started fishing I see two anglers coming up from behind me, fast. In the middle of nowhere. These to guys had the NERVE to insist on pool hopping with me upstream in MY water! Then, they had the NERVE to feed me barbecue back at their truck, invite me to camp with them, insist I drink all their scotch, and insist I fish with them the next day. My solo fishing trip was completely ruined. As I tell my toddler several times a day, "it is more fun to share." You'll find plenty of guys out there who never learned that lesson, and a lot of this etiquette stuff is to avoid pissing them off.

Cool net. Does Udo carry bamboo stuff at that shop?

Gone, pretty much. The odd flow going by.

I was down by Carseland. I guess pike are part of the deal down there. I let her go, even though she looked like she had a 20" trout in her belly!

LOL. That is the exact opposite of bamboo. I think it was made at NASA. It is a rocket launcher. Cane doesn't cut it when it is gusting to 80kph.

Braved the wind today and got this chubby pikey. Never seen one so fat. Also got a PB rainbow. Not a great pic, but she was a hawg.

That's the idea. If you don't get there first, you leave or you take a walk PAST where the person ahead of plans to fish. It is not something someone deserves, it is common courtesy and etiquette. 126barnes- I'm talking small jump across-streams that don't see a lot of anglers, or hold very spooky trout. These streams can't be shared very well, unless you sit while your buddy fishes a pool, and visa versa. Plus, a lot of people go to these streams specifically to have some time to themselves. For Rivers like the Bow, Oldman, Liv, and even the Crow, this rule is clearly not feasible. Too many anglers to avoid sharing, and no real need to have water to yourself.

Thank you for posting that.

Different people have different standards of etiquette. Always talk to someone you hope to fish near. This will avoid most conflicts. When you approach them, though, stay away from the water and let them know you are coming as soon as you can. Spooking a hawg they have been resting will not win you any favors. Different rivers mean different etiquette, too. I have no problem asking someone to jump in on a run in the Bow, but on a small uncrowded stream, I'd consider it poor etiquette to fish less than a day's fishing above the direction I (or someone else) was headed if there was room for them (or me) ahead. When fishing smaller streams, it is also good etiquette to put a sign on the dash of your truck to indicate which direction you went (upstream/downstream), so the second vehicle to get there doesn't have to guess (or leave). I'd be interested to hear some stillwater etiquette.

Tiger eye blanks are from Sevier. Never tried them, but they have a pretty good following. I have heard they are bang on for line rating, so a WF7 should be a pretty good start (or a DT6).

Thanks. I never bring a rod when I am not planning on fishing. I may have to build a travel rod and put together a compact kit with the basics.

And here are a couple favorites from last year:

Check out this thread for some awesome riser shots. This is a guy from New Zealand. He says he crawls around the willows all day to get shots like this: http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=24138

I'd be interested to hear how it works out for you. I'd imagine it would be cheaper to pay freight from a shop that bangs off dozens of benches, but you never know. Have you considered modifying a writing desk with some Oasis type organizers? I'm sure you could find plenty of rolls tops, writing desks, and chests of drawers that would fit the bill. By the way, I'm very jealous!

Ebay sounds like a bad idea to me. There are a lot of guys out there throwing together rods and calling them custom (I guess they still are, but no better done then a factory rod). I'm sure there are some good builders on Ebay, but I would bet most are sub-par. Long standing, reputable builders (the kind you can call up 5-10 years from now about a broken guide and get an answer) do not need the extra work that a site like Ebay would provide. Take Dutchie up on his offer and use a reputable builder. You will get a rod that is far superior to a factory rod, with your own personal touches, for about than the cost of a factory rod. This is the point of getting a custom rod, right? If you are just looking to save some money on a Brand name rod, and your not too fussed about the cosmetics, build it yourself. You can get a Brand name blank and similar components for a good chunk less than you can get the factory rod. Whipping a rod is not hard; you can get it done in just a handful of evenings and with nothing more than a bobbin and a cardboard box and a couple borrowed tools (like a grip reamer).

One more vote for WM. I have a very old model from when they started in NZ. I have had some glue seam issues, but the boat is >15 years old. Meh, I got it for $200 or $300. I talked to the present WM company about the issues. I guess the company has changed hands three time since then, so they couldn't really help me. Construction and materials have changed slightly since then. Be warned, though, a lifetime warranty is only the lifetime of the company. I would definitely buy another. They are so simple, and so effective. If you are thinking of doing a lot of hiking with it, get a packboard (external frame backpack for packing game quarters) and strap the dry sac to that. Also, I would look into the lighter weight model. I have a winter project this year of building a platform to sit on top of the tube for stillwater use. Cedar slats, a hole for a motor, a small kneeling chair, and anchor mounts. Hopefully I get around to it.

Check into warrantees, too. I went with Norlander originally because he offered a lifetime replace/repair warrantee and Ekitch only offered one year. Filling the Nor spools is easy; takes a few seconds and puts maybe 100 flys worth of thread on there. The biggest time waster is changing spools and threading the bobbins. That can only be solved by having more bobbins, which makes the Nor at $35 a more reasonable. There is a small cost associated with the Nor spools, but most people don't use dozens of thread types, anyway. Spool labeling (keeping track of denier etc) is my main problem with the Nor system. Pretty easy to eyeball it, though. headscan- the para post are easier because it is way easier to keep a light and constant tension on the post. I had trouble with them before I got the Nor bobbin.

I could see it helping with any vise. Definately more with a rotary as you pull the bobbin out of the way more, but even just a few inches of winding back takes some time. I think my Nor-bobbin is one of my best fly tying purchases. Makes a lot of things easier, not just back winding. Parachute posts and securing hackle wraps are a few off the top of my head. They are pricey, though. I'd like to see something cheaper come out. I'm not sure if that is feasible, but it seems a $100 is a bit high for the mechanism involved.

I replaced all mine with cheapo Am. Std. dual flush. They were like $150 at HomeDepot. Needs a brushing after most #2, but no biggie. They don't jam up, and I have never had to flush twice. Make sure to get your $50 back from the city.

aybe I am a bit harsh on the mid-quality companies, but I had bad luck going that route. Also, I didn't say high end; I said high quality. Most of the best brands have budget models that are not significantly more expensive than the mid quality brands. The quality is the same/similar as their fancy models, it is just missing some bells and whistles and polishing. The Renzetti traveler, Regal Inex, HMH SX, are examples. Also, used vises can be great values. I bought a full Nor-vise set up including midge jaws for $250 from some random tying forum. bhurt- at 5 dozen flies a week, if you abstained from tying for a month or two, you could afford a vise that will not need replacing every few years. What do you do with all those flies, dude? lol

Very nice work. I have had a similar project half started since the end of last winter, but I will definitely be adding an ipod holder and a drink holder when I get back at'er this winter. What drill bit did you use for the recessed holes?

FW- No thread on those. Put the hook in the vise, hold the wire with your left hand and wrap with your right. Head cement or superglue on either end after completed will help hold the wire in place.