Conor

I went to a fast taper/fast action 10' 6wt for my general Bow rod this year. It was a big step from my usual <9' medium to slow action rods; a bit too big, maybe. It does the job very well, but I think it is more the backbone of the rod that gets me long mends and solid hook-sets than the length. The length does add a surprising amount of weight (not actual weight, but practical weight). The extra foot is a bonus if you're willing to carry the weight. If I were to make the choice again, I would have probably go 9'6" or went the spey route.

I have had trouble with the point of partridges breaking. It must be the way I de-barb them. I find the barb snaps instead of bending like with other hooks. All the other high quality brands I have not had problems with. I like Dia-riki for the value. Has anyone tried some of the cheaper, high quality hooks (I forget the name). I remember some talk on the board about them, and some people were going to pick some up (from ebay or a supplier from BC?).

My premise for this tie was a fast, simple stonefly that offers some basic characteristics of the natural while giving a different profile than your typical Bitch creek or Kauffman's. There are plenty of add-ons that could be made (more legs, shell back, wing cases etc etc), but I haven't noticed a difference in performance with fancier versions. I fish a lot of my own patterns, mostly variations of patterns that work no better than the original, but are a bit more stimulating to tie. I posted this one because it seems to me this one works better than other stonefly patterns. I'd be interested to have some guys that put a lot of time on the water really test this one out. I typically high-stick this through pockets and seams. Hold on tight to your line

I had the idea for this this spring. I have used it here and there this season. Every time out nymphing, it has been the fly of the day for me. A super fast and simple tie. Hook: worm-style (size to match naturals) Thread: color to match head Eyes: dumbbell (medium to large) Dubbing: your choice; color to match natural Ribbing: heavy wire (color of choice) Tails/Legs: rubber (color of choice) Secure your eyes behind the eye on the top of the hook shank. Tie in your tail and then your ribbing. Dub abdomen. Keep it sparse. Wrap rib. Tie in legs. A few dub wraps between the legs and one or two in front and one each way over the eye (end up with one half to one wrap in front of the eye). Build a head and whip. I have been using #6-8 Mustad worm hooks, olive 6/0 thread, large brass eyes, heavy gauge copper wire, gold Ice Dub and black and white rubber legs for this pattern. It is a great golden stone nymph.

Thanks to all who put in the leg work to get this kicked off. Hopefully, we can see some more of the fruits of those efforts in a few years.

Thanks, crooked. That is the info I was looking for. I figured it was the case, given the 18-55 is the 'kit' lens, but I wanted to be sure. I wasn't sure I would use the shorter focal lengths as much a the longer on a bigger lens. I've decided on a Nikon D40. Seems like a great place to start, or even end up.

$600-700 is over my budget. Not really an option at the moment. I need to pick one end of that range or the other; ~18-55 or 55-200. I'm not really sure which I would use more.

Any advice on a starter lens or two for a SLR newbie. This will be a family camera (kids, holidays etc) but also landscapes and (lastly) some wildlife shots. I am torn between a 18-55 mm and a 55-200 mm for my basic zoom. Any hints here? Also thinking of a 50 mm f1.8. I'm looking in the $200-400 range for all or one. Cheers.

The braided loops don't hinge as badly if you inch the fly line all the way up as far as the braid is hollow. A little glue at the end of the fly line and at the end of the braid and you have a pretty smooth consistent connection. I got sick of replacing the braids, though. I found they wore out too quickly. I use the nail-knots now. Just two 5 turn nail knots with 5x and a bit of glue or cement and you are good to go all season.

There is an organized national shoreline clean-up coming up here sometime soon (Sept./October sometime) called the TD shoreline clean-up. Shouldn't this clean-up register with them for maximum effect. They help manage which organizations will be cleaning up which river stretch on which day. http://www.vanaqua.org/cleanup/home.php

I am looking to buy an entry level DSLR and lens. I am looking for a recommendation for a decent body and basic lens. I'd like to spend less than $600 total. This will be used for basic family stuff, landscapes, etc. Easy automation would be a bonus, too. However, I sometimes have a creative kick, so I don't want to be too limited.

Very cool. I'd love to see that. I once saw two young male antelope chase each other around at ridiculous speeds for about 5-10 minutes. A couple minutes would pass and somehow the chaser would be the chasee. Back and forth.

I dig the line drawing on the banner. I would love to see that as a decal, bumpersticker or hat etc.

1. You can grease a leader with Musulin (sp?). It is a good way to suspend a light nymph in slack water. Leave a few inches, at least, ungreased. 2. I like the there to be a direct connection between my hooks, my indicator and my rod. If the nymphs are downstream of the indicator, and the indicator is upstream of me, I do not have what I consider a direct connection (there is a sharp angle of 'slack' line). I prefer my nymphs to be parallel or upstream of my indicator. I feel I have more sensitivity and better hooksets this way. Note that your hooks landing downstream of your indicator does not mean that they will remain there during the drift. Currents are often slower nearer the bottom. 3. I don't think this matters too much. I prefer the line to be under the water, so maybe tilting the knot down would help. 4. A little of both. The indicator and your line can influence the sink of the nymphs. If they sink on a slack line, they will sink straight down with the current. This is a "feel" thing. The best nymphers have a very keen sense of where their hooks are in the water and how the current/line/indicator is affecting them. There is more than one way to skin a cat. I like to skin 'em this way.

Cataract Creek. Walk downstream from the campground and fish to the falls. More brookies than you could ever want.

Best first year investment: time. Get out and enjoy being there. Don't expect to catch any fish. If you don't like time on your own, find a fishing buddy or two. Anything it takes to keep you out there and learning. Talk to people out there and get some tips. Fish with people that are more experienced, if possible. The more progress you make in the first year, the more likely you will have a lifetime hobby. If you don't mind getting wet, don't bother with waders yet. The weather and water is warn this time of year. Spend that money on casting lessons. It will make everything less frustrating. Get up to a mountain stream some time in the next few months. You'll catch a few fish and see some awesome stuff. Don't let the Bow discourage you. It may seem impossible at first, but one day something will click and you'll wonder why you ever thought it was so difficult.

Cool idea. Let see some of the final product!

I love the third one down in the third post. Fear and loathing on the Bow.

I know of two options in a situation like that. I'm sure there are more than that, though. First is to put it in the fishes mouth, like you mentioned. Trout get in a groove in a hatch like that. They will rise in a very regular pattern, and won't move more than an inch or two to the side to rise. You can predict where and when they will be rising. Time your drift to be the easiest fly to grab just when the fish is ready to rise. Second is to do something to break the trout's groove and convince it to do something different. A twitch or a swung fly might do it. A unmatched fly, like a terrestrial or some attractor pattern, might do the trick as well. Also, try a different life stage than what they are eating, like an emerger or a cripple. I guess a third option (probably the most sane option) would be to sit on the bank and watch until the hatch thins out.

I have had luck lately with a CDC pattern. Take one standard CDC feather (type 3?), and tie in at the bend. Wrap forward for the body (you should have about enough barbs tied in to create the body) and keep wrapping for a soft hackle effect. You should be able to get away with a single CDC feather. If not, tie in another towards the head (try not to bind too many barbs) and wrap until it looks good. It worked for me the other night on a particularly picky fish. He was rising with good caddis pops with some aggressive head-tail rises mixed in.

I have a Nor-vise and I love it. Solid tool. I use the Nor auto-bobbin. It is great as well. Having separate spools is a bit of a pain, and it evens the cost with the Ekich. The Nor has a lifetime warrantee, though. Ekich is just one year.

Sweet. I started using an old 'blue collar' boo last season for dry flying. They typically aren't worth much ($20-100) but they perform well (I have yet to cast good boo). If it is really homemade, the quality might be much better, and you might have a gem there. If the line is in good shape, it may be worth more than the rod. New silk lines go for a few hundred bucks now. Get some info from the forum mentioned about getting this rod up to fishing shape and about upkeep etc. I wouldn't worry about how much it is worth. It's not like you are going to sell it.

Even retail they are cheaper than knotless. I get mine from a guy on Ebay for $8 ea. One or two will last all season, typically.

I went to a used fishing gear sale at the South Calgary Community Centre last year. Anyone know if this is happening this year? Have I missed it already?

I use them for dry fishing. Turn over is excellent, and they are so supple, I feel they help reduce drag a bit. I plan on whipping up a peg board this winter.