marchbrownn

I agree with tallieho. In 1968 I started to fly fish. In 1969 I bought my 1st fly tying vise – Thompson “A” vise. Now 42 years old. In 1970 I bought my 2nd fly tying vise – Veniard which is a crude form of a rotary vise. In 2003 (early spring) I bought my 3rd fly tying vise – Renzetti Traveller. I wanted a pedestal. In 2003 a lady friend and I sat down to tie some flies. She never had tied any flies and I never tied any on the Renzetti. She used the Thompson A and I used the Renzetti. She tied 6 flies and I tied 6 flies. It is now November 16, 2011. To be honest, I have not tied too many flies on the Renzetti since 2003. To be really honest and a bit more precise, the answer is “ZERO.” Since I do not need a rotary vise, the Thompson does everything. But the Renzetti Traveler is a very good vise. marchbrownn

Isn't Thorne's closed for only the summer? If this is the case, when will they restart again? marchbrownn

I am aware of only one place that sells the “Pocket Micro Tackle Box”. The shop is: Angling Specialties in Mississauga 325 Central Parkway West Mississauga, ON L5B 3X9 Phone: (905) 275-4972 NO WEB SITE In my previous post above, I have stated - “perfect for just about everything except for streamer and 1XL/2XL/3XL hooks.” So far I have used the tiny Plano boxes for 1XL/2XL/3XL wet/nymph hooks. But I have found a Wapsi box that is better for the 3XL and etc hooks. I found a box that is larger than the Micro (I was not aware that I had it) and it has 6 compartments with each having a cover. This one is perfect for the 1XL/2XL/3XL wet/nymph hooks. I bought the Wapsi several weeks ago locally. This box is perfect for the hooks that will not fit the Micro. Each compartment can hold 50 Mustad hooks, size 8, #9672, 3XL and it can probably hold 100 hooks. Pocket Micro Tackle Box HT Enterprises – Campbellsport, WI http://www.fishusa.com/HT-Enterprises-6-Co...le-Boxes_p.html model TBM-6 Compartments are 1” by 1” Box is 3 ½” x 2 ¼” x ¾” Cost - $2.79 Cost in 2002 - $2.75 Cost in USA - $1.45 USD Wapsi http://www.wapsifly.com/pdffiles/wap/page%2074.pdf Model – FBE26 Compartments are 1 1/8” by 1 1/8” Box is 4 ¼” by 2 5/8” by 1 1/4” Cost - $2.99 It is impossible to have any hooks migrate from 1 compartment to another. The reason is that each compartment has its own cover. Once you cover a compartment, the hooks stay in that compartment. The compartments are also separated from each other because of the covers. You should be able to buy Wapsi from a dealer that sells Wapsi. You will probably have more difficulties in getting the Micro. Should you have any problems getting the Micro or Wapsi, maybe I could help you. Post or send me a PM and I will see what can be done. I will no longer use the tiny Plano boxes – the Wapsi box is better. Good luck. marchbrownn EDIT Added the following ............ There is nothing to "fix" on the Micro or Wapsi boxes. They will do what is required. They are ready to get filled up with hooks. They will do what you want them to do without any fixes .

When I started tying a very long time ago, I used until 2002 2 inch tall Tupperware tubs – they look like the containers that plants come in. I kept them in a larger Tupperware container – no more room for any other tubs. They were best for 100 streamer hooks in size 8-10-12-14, 4X/6X. For anything else, the tub was too big but this was not a problem. In 2002 I taught a lady friend how to tie flies. I bought some Mustad hooks – 1XL and 2XL, #9671 – in packs of 50. I contacted a lady from Tupperware to buy more tubs but found out that each tub cost too much. And then I found something that is perfect for hooks – “Pocket Micro Tackle Box” with 6 compartments and covers. These Micro boxes are only – 3 ½” x 2 ¼” x ¾” - see PIC of 3 boxes. The 1st 2 are the Micro boxes. The 2nd shows 3 covers that are open. These are perfect for just about everything except for streamer and 1XL/2XL/3XL hooks. I have yet to see any hooks migrate from 1 compartment to another – and this includes dry fly hooks size 26. I do not know what would happen with #28, 29, 30 hooks. Recently I have purchased a supply of the tiny hooks - #28/29/30 and so I will check. The 3rd box is the same size as the Micro but each compartment is larger because it does not have a curved edge for taking hooks out. Also, the 2nd box is closed by only 1 cover and it is made by Plano. For streamer hooks, I found a small Plano box with 8 compartments but big enough for 100 streamer hooks. Yesterday I bought 10 more Micro boxes because I have only 5 empty ones left. Now I can store the new hooks that I bought in December. I can see at least several positives about the Micro and the tiny Plano boxes. So far I have not seen any migrations from one compartment to another. Each compartment is covered by a separate cover. I am not putting all of my eggs into a hook box of 30 compartments. And the best thing is the very small size of the box. And I do not have at least 90% of the compartment volume area - empty. Size 26 and smaller hooks do not need much space. When I tie, I need one hook based on style, size and who the maker is and so I will pull out 1 tiny box with 6 compartments – not a box of 30 compartments. All of my hook boxes are stored in one #3731 Plano box which has only 1 compartment and the size is only 14” by 8 ½” by 3 ¼”. So this is what I use and this is what I find best for me. Thank you for reading and I am sorry that this post is long. marchbrownn

Flytyer, thank you for your help. I wonder if they closed the store. Their prices are very good. I will phone them and find out what is happening. Maybe someone else here has an answer. marchbrownn

The first time was my own Yahoo e-mail to Thorne e-mail address - rthorne@thornesmanufacturing.com. The second time was to use the “Email Us” – Thorne’s e-mail form. Both of the above methods are found at http://www.thornesmanufacturing.com/index.php?Page=Contact If there is a third time, it is also possible to click on the rthorne@thornesmanufacturing.com address and get an e-mail form. Thank you Flytyer. I agree with you that it is difficult to set up an e-mail correspondence. However, placing a phone order would not be much easier. Thank you. marchbrownn

I am new in the area of placing online orders and so I may be doing something wrong. It will be my second. I have contacted Thorne’s Manufacturing and Sales about an order for fly tying materials and tools. I will be paying by check. So, I forwarded a 3-part order – present and future. Part 1 order – all items available but to be confirmed. If all is in stock, I simply send a check in the full amount and that is it. Part 2 order – all items appear to be in stock. Items in this area would be ordered whenever some items in part 3 area become available because presently they are out of stock. Part 3 area – none of the items in this area are available – out of stock, coming soon, sold out or whatever. My first contact was made on September 25. When I heard nothing after 3 weeks, I contacted them on October 16 – 3 weeks. Tomorrow will be 4 weeks. So I am posting this thread because I may be doing something wrong and I would like to get some info. And you guys have more knowledge about Thorne’s Man. than I do. So what am I doing wrong? I think my money is the same as yours. It is difficult to make a financial transaction if the other side does not communicate with you for 4 weeks. Perhaps you guys are slower than we are out here in Toronto but I do not think so. Thank you for any help or advice. marchbrownn

Pantones is sold in Canada under the name of "Prismacolor". Prismacolor is sold at Michael's and artist supply stores. http://www.michaels.com/art/online/search?...=9&as_fid=3 https://www.currys.com/catalogpc.htm?Catego...p;Source=Search good color samples https://www.currys.com/catalogsearch2.htm?SEARCH=prismacolor http://www.deserres.ca/ marchbrownn

Thank you all for your info. Like I said in my OP, Orvis, in their ad, has the following statement – “Shipped to contiguous 48 states only. Express shipping/gift packaging not available.” To me, contiguous excludes Alaska and Hawaii and so I am assuming that we, Canada, are not part of the “lower 48.” This restriction was not in the ad prior to March 1, 2008. If the above Orvis statement is true, perhaps Orvis decided that free shipping outside continental USA is a costly proposition. However, I will try online again and see what happens. Over the many years, it was nice to order Orvis flies and at such give-away prices. carp-starter – thank you I see that this thread has been moved from “Fly Tying Bench” to “General Chat – Fishing Related. I apologize for not posting in the proper area. My major interest is fly tying and so I automatically posted there.

http://www.orvis.com/store/productchoice.a...9671&bhcp=1 I tried to buy the fly selection online 2 times before March 1st before my computer died (I was without a computer for about 2 ½ months). Somewhere I made an error. Right now, the Orvis ad states – “Shipped to contiguous 48 states only. Express shipping/gift packaging not available.” Before Match 1st there were no restrictions. On my first attempt to order, I got cut-off in mid-stream (LOL). On my second attempt, I got to the end but I did not get a confirmation letter or anything else. I also did not get billed. So, why advertise the product if it cannot be ordered at the present time because I do not live in the “lower 48 states?” Is the ad not misleading? Thank you all for any answers. I am just curious. Please note that I am not against Orvis. Almost everything that I own in fly fishing and fly tying is from Orvis. marchbrownn

Hey guys, all of the above is nothing much – really. Check the 2 sites (below) and what you find, may tempt you to quit fly tying and fishing – and have you start with a new type of fishing. But then, your wife or g/f might want it more than you. marchbrownn http://macdaddysfishinglures.com/index.php...p;product_id=15 http://sports.espn.go.com/outdoors/fishing...Lure_L.Burkhead

I fish areas where the regulations are – single point barbless hooks only, artificials only, catch and release only. In the past, I simply de-barbed ALREADY TIED FLIES when I needed them. For this reason, I decided to de-barb all my fly hooks before I tie my flies. Most of my hooks are Orvis hooks – dry (#14 to #24), wet (#8 to #16) and streamer (#8 to #12, 6X and 4X long). Since I have never fish nymphs, about 5 years ago I bought 1X, 2X and 3X long wet/nymph hooks. Since my eye sight is not getting better with age, I bought some Daiichi #1110 hooks about 2 months ago. This is equivalent to the Orvis Big Eye hooks. Somehow, Daiichi and Orvis are associated in making these hooks. Since I never had any scud hooks, I also bought these about 2 months ago. In the past, I just pinched the barb. I have come to realize that these so-called barbless hooks were not “legally barbless” hooks. Here in Ontario, these hooks (just pinch) would not pass the Q-Tip test if stopped by a CO. I use the wool patch that comes with a fly fishing vest. Do not suggest that I purchase barbless hooks. I have between 3,500 and 4,000 hooks to de-barb. If all I had to do is to pinch the barb (as in the past), it would be easy and quick. To de-barb hooks and get them legally barbless is not so easy and time consuming. The tools that I have used are – Orvis clamp (fine point), regular pliers (both 4” and 5” long) and Dr. Slick, Eco Barb Crusher - 4". I have used two methods to de-barb my hooks. One method is NOT good and the second method is my recommended method. I have not used my vice to de-barb hooks and I never will. I have read more than a few threads where people have stated that after a period of time, they wear out the vice jaws. . TOOLS Whatever you use, I suggest that the tool be at least 5” long with a fine tip, non-serrated. Four inches is hard on your hand. I will have to find a place that sells the Dr Slick Barb Pliers - 5" to replace the 4” Dr. Slick that I now have. TECHNIQUES TO DE-BARB HOOKS I have used two techniques. The first technique involves in having your tool perpendicular to the shank of the hook. I will not use this method again because of the negative results. This method can widen the gap. In most cases using this method, I have broken the hook at the gap. If you have not ended up with one of these 2 results, you probably have weakened the hook in the gap area. This would explain why a large fish “breaks off a hook.” In the gap area. The second technique involves in having your tool parallel with the shank of the hook. This method is good and it will become better when I replace my Dr. Slick, Eco Barb Crusher, 4” with Dr Slick Barb Pliers, 5". I am sorry that this long. The above is only my opinion. I could have sworn that I was already a member of Fly Fishing Calgary. If I may say so, you guys have an excellent forums site. I have a question. How does one use a vice to de-barb a hook – especially when it is a #24 or #26 hook or even smaller? marchbrownn