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Posted

I've been practicing my casting lately, and I've noticed that often that my line will hit the water before my fly will. Or that the cast seems overpowered or something and resembles a tuck cast. If I decrease power, it does not solve the problem.

 

How do I get the fly to turn over properly and land gently on the water without a belly forming in my line which splats on the water before the fly and leader? I can get tiht loops while false casting, but when it comes time to lay it down on the water, my problems begin. I also can't seem to shoot line properly, and the problems may be linked.

 

I'm using a 6-weight, 9' carbon fibre rod with a DT floating line and a 9 foot tapered leader, not that it matters much.

 

Any advice or suggestions?

Posted

Actually the DT line could be your problem ! have you a WF line you could try ? Sounds like you have a Fast action rod maybe step up to a 7 wt line see if that helps . A Buddy of mine had the same problem and he had the 6 WT like you so I put on my 8 WT FORWARD line he could Not believe the difference that made ! Try it ! Tight lines !

Posted

Aquaholic got it. On the final cast "pretend" the water level is at waist or eye height ... that's where the line should lay out...and then let it fall. If the line tends to kink up (or pile up a bit), then, as the line falls, simply give it a slight pull backward.

Posted

You have to always to work the line to 'assist' with the perfect placement. Sometimes you have to pull back a bit, sometime let a bit out. The best is to practice with out thinking about fishing. Hit a pond with the ice leaves and focus 100% of the cast - it will come after some time.

Posted

Best and cheapest advice I could offer is go to Wholesale sports or Basspro and get 2 DVD's made by 3M / Scientific Anglers "basic fly casting, and advanced fly casting". You will laugh at first because it was made in the early 80's, but not much has changed in flyfishing casting since then. I find videos beter then books because you can see exactally what they are doing.

 

There is another one called "Flycasting Faults and Fixes" might be worth a try.

 

 

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s...5006000_175-6-0

 

Posted

Positive Stop at the 2 and 10 o'clock position, and the lower your rod tip to the water. Should lay the line out nice and softly.

 

With all the Spey gatherings that get held throughout the season, I wonder if someone shouldn't try to put together a single hand get together, a great opportunity to work out some of the bad habits we've acquired in the off/slow season. Just a thought.

 

Colin

Posted
OK ! I'm a LEFTY what do I Know ! my above post was meant for the shooting part of the problem ! am I wrong on that too ?

 

No WF is generally easier to shoot than DT and you're also correct with the assumtion that most people should slow down the action of the rod by overlining somewhat. Makes the rod more forgiving of casting mistakes.

 

Posted
Best and cheapest advice I could offer is go to Wholesale sports or Basspro and get 2 DVD's made by 3M / Scientific Anglers "basic fly casting, and advanced fly casting". You will laugh at first because it was made in the early 80's, but not much has changed in flyfishing casting since then. I find videos beter then books because you can see exactally what they are doing.

 

There is another one called "Flycasting Faults and Fixes" might be worth a try.

 

 

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s...5006000_175-6-0

 

Ah, good ol' Doug Swisher and the "micro second wrist".. I just love the awkward looking hunched down position he puts himself into EVERY time he does anything related to a cast! So funny to watch.

 

BUT.. yes, very good videos.

Posted

The WF line and postive stop as Colin mentioned should also help with shooting. Remember to stop high and make the rod do the work - its a spring and should unload itself when you stop, you shouldn't be forcing it down any further

Posted

Lots of good advice so far, one point i would make is when shooting line is to make sure you are not letting the line out of your hand until the line has good forward momentum, it must already be travelling forward for it to be able to carry the line you are tring to shoot.

As Colin says a positive stop is a must, no creep on the forward cast, and no drift on the back cast.

Gordon.

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