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Articulated Leeches


H2O

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Anybody have a good method for tying them? From what I've read the biggest challenge is preventing the 2nd hook from doubling back on the 1st hook even though most cut the 1st hook off at the bend.

 

 

I have been trying them on shanks and joining them with a split ring. I also am connecting a short shank hook to the back with a split ring. It allows you to

tie up the whole thing w/ out a hook and then select your preferred 'goto' short shank. This gives the fish nearly 0 leverage and I think adds better action in the water. Got the split ring idea from Max.

 

-al

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Interesting Al, but apparently I've been living in a cave, what's a split ring and where do I buy them?

 

I think I saw one of Max's articulates at Fishtales, looked very nice. I'm looking to tye some for salmon fishing, is that what you use them for?

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Interesting Al, but apparently I've been living in a cave, what's a split ring and where do I buy them?

 

I think I saw one of Max's articulates at Fishtales, looked very nice. I'm looking to tye some for salmon fishing, is that what you use them for?

 

A split ring is what you see generally connecting hooks to spoons and lures for gear fishing. You can get them at any fishing store like wholesale. I am going to use them for trout this year actually. I hope! I am sure though they will stand up fine for salmon, I suspect your leader would fail you before the ring did.

 

-al

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i use either piano wire or dacron backing, looped through the trailing hooks eye, and then threaded through a bead or two before being tied onto a shank, bobby pin, cotter pin, or another hook with the hook clipped off...if you use a bobby pin or a cotter pin, make sure you use a split ring for attaching your leader...
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hey harry if u are finding your fly is doubling up on you try using a shank of hook half the length as the back one or vise versa..ive had this happen a few times messing around with jointed flies and find some patterns hinged more than others depending on were the weight is and the shape of the front and back halfs...

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Interesting Al, but apparently I've been living in a cave, what's a split ring and where do I buy them?

 

I think I saw one of Max's articulates at Fishtales, looked very nice. I'm looking to tye some for salmon fishing, is that what you use them for?

 

If you'll be using the articulated flies for salmon in BC you'll only be allowed a single barbless hook. Most of the flies I've tied like this have a large cheap hook for the front hook because it gets cut, and a Gamakatsu for the trailer. The trailer is connected to the front shank using fireline. The fireline is looped at least once through the eye and around the hook of the trailer. The tags are then secured to the shank of the front with threadwraps and head cement.

 

When you secure the material to the rear hook, avoid having to much length on the material so that it doesn't extend to far past the trailer, this will keep it front getting fouled.

 

I'm assuming you're tying a rabbit strip style pattern, and not an intruder?

 

oh yeah be careful when you cut the hook off the front shank. Point the end towards a garbage, this piece of metal shoot out like a mother fu*#er.

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I have been trying them on shanks and joining them with a split ring. I also am connecting a short shank hook to the back with a split ring. It allows you to

tie up the whole thing w/ out a hook and then select your preferred 'goto' short shank. This gives the fish nearly 0 leverage and I think adds better action in the water. Got the split ring idea from Max.

 

-al

 

Al,

 

Are you able to post a photo to better illustrate what you mean?!

 

Thx,

 

Peter

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Guest bigbadbrent

Hey Harry,

Just like TimEhh said, most of the guys that go fish for steelhead out west, and salmon up north, they do it with fireline (usually 50 lb) and just loop it through the back hook. 50 lb is stiff enough to make it not fold back onto itself, and if its done correctly (aka you put enough so you can unloop the hook, but not enough that its waggling around), you can trade out the hook if you bang it around or bend it out. This is how most of the new intruder patterns are tied, with the only hook being a 'stinger' hook.

 

That's exactly what i've been doing with my massive double/triple bunnie flies, and when fishing with them, they don't even foul...its the only way to tie streamers now

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Great, thanks for your help guys!

 

I'm tying them for an Xtreme Wilderness trip we've got booked for June 29th in Alaska for King Salmon. Not sure if they have the single barbless hook rule there but since the leftovers will be used in B.C. that's the way I'll go. I really like the idea of being able to swap the hook out if one bends out, that seems to happen to me a lot with salmon.

 

I'm assuming you're tying a rabbit strip style pattern, and not an intruder?

 

You bet, rabbit strip patterns.

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Guest bigbadbrent

If you're ever in the NW, come see me and the scottish kid on a sunday at the shop (10-2), i'll show you how i've been tying the bully flies, that let you switch out hooks

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Some of the articulated leeches are monsters to cast...but they work in big waters. I've been doing some work on Tube articulated paterns and find these patterns a bit expensive but better to fish and cast...will do a few for the show next week....

Once I figure out how to he-l to post pictures life would be more picturesque...cha cha cha!

C

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Hmm the way I've always done it in my limited experience, is to tie a 'leader' of backing to the rear part (with hook), leaving about 3" of 'leader' then securing the 'leader' to the shank of the front hook with tying thread and a bit of cement. Bingo, you have two shanks connected. Seems to work for me.

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