Smitty Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Hi Everyone: As I approach my first "field" trip with the kids to Summerside Lake, I'm creating these pocket sized cards they can carry with them. Each student will be given 4 cards; on the front of each one is the diagram of a knot. I've chosen the non-slip loop (rapala) knot, improved clinch, surgeon's loop, and trilene knot. I'm thinking of adding a couple more including the surgeon's loop, perfection loop, etc. Any suggestions on more knots is welcome. However, the main thrust of this post is on the back of each "knot" card is something I've written called called "Casting Tips". So, I've copied and pasted below, what I have written. Please feel free to add, edit, criticize, delete. There are lots of experienced casters with plenty of knowledge and expertise. I'd appreciate your feedback! Theme 1 "THE BASIC CAST": 1. Use the extended finger grip or "key" grip when learning how to cast. 2. Always start your cast with a tight line, with no slack, rod tip low! 3. Begin the back cast by lifting the rod with your forearm, starting slow, but then speeding up quickly. SMOOTHLY accelerate! 4. Then, with the rod, pointed at 1 o'clock, ABRUPTLY stop the rod with a SMALL snap of the wrist! 5. PAUSE! You must let the line unroll. Timing is important here: wait for the line to unroll, but don't wait too long. 6. The forward cast is exactly like the back cast, but done in the opposite direction: start the forward cast with your forearm, smoothly accelerate, then abruptly stop the rod using a small wrist snap, and pause. Theme 2 "GENERAL CASTING TIPS": 1. The tip of the rod should travel in a straight line path, not in a oval shape. 2. Where you stop the rod tip, that's where the line will go. 3. When performing the forward cast, think of driving the rod straight forward, NOT DOWN! 4. Avoid "floppy" wrist! Only use a SMALL "snap" of the wrist at the END of each cast, NOT DURING the cast. 5. Don 't forget to stop the rod ABRUPTLY! 6. Don't forget to PAUSE at the end of the forward cast and the back cast. 7. Turn your body slightly sideways, so you can WATCH BOTH the BACK AND FORWARD casts! Now, I can repeat those "THEMES" on the 2 remaining cards, or I can add new ones. Don't want to overwhelm with information, but if you have any more themes or suggestions, by all means, suggest away! Reply however you think is easiest to read/understand; just use cut and paste or refer to the tip/theme number. Cheers. Anyways, thanks in advance. Mike "Smitty" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ÜberFly Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Mike, Here's a few from me... Theme 1 "THE BASIC CAST": 1. Use the extended finger grip or "key" grip when learning how to cast. (maybe you can better describe this?! What is a key grip or is this something you have gone over with them and they know what you are talking about?) 2. Always start your cast with a tight line, with no slack, KEEP THE rod tip low! 3. Begin the back cast by lifting the rod with your forearm, starting slow, but then speeding up quickly. SMOOTHLY accelerate! 4. Then, with the rod pointed at 1 o'clock, ABRUPTLY stop the rod with a SMALL snap of the wrist (as the orvis guy says "pop to a stop")! 5. PAUSE! You must let the line unroll (straighten out behind you). Timing is important here: wait for the line to unroll (straighten out behind you), but don't wait too long. 6. The forward cast is exactly like the back cast, but done in the opposite direction: start the forward cast with your forearm, smoothly accelerate, then abruptly stop the rod using a small wrist snap (pop to a stop"), and pause. Theme 2 "GENERAL CASTING TIPS": 1. The tip of the rod should travel in a straight line path, not in a oval shape. 2. Where you stop the rod tip, that's where the line will go. 3. When performing the forward cast, think of driving the rod straight forward, NOT DOWN! 4. Avoid "floppy" wrist! Only use a SMALL "snap" of the wrist at the END of each cast, NOT DURING the cast. 5. Don 't forget to stop the rod ABRUPTLY! 6. Don't forget to PAUSE at the end of the forward cast and the back cast. 7. Turn your body slightly sideways, so you can WATCH BOTH the BACK AND FORWARD casts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonvilly Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Smitty In my teaching career and coaching I have found less is more with kids when trying to teach them a new skill. I try to give them no more than 3 key points. Anymore than that and it is lost. Not sure if the age group, I work primarily with junior high. Maybe some pictures or diagrams with each point might br better. As Peter said, maybe 1 point could be about the key grip, then have a picture of the grip. Point 4. Talk about the abrupt stop, then show a picture of where their hand and rod should be in relation to their head. This method would also activate their kinesthetic sense along with their visual.. Let me know how it goes, I'm starting an outdoor Ed option next year, and hoping to add a "fishing" module. Good luck and have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironfly Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 I've taught a number of casting classes, and grip strength is usually an issue for kids. The key grip and FOT are inherently weak grips, that's part of the reason they help with accuracy. I think the TOT would be better, but then again, I don't know your kids. Maybe just something to bear in mind if some of them start complaining about their hand cramping. Each grip uses very specific muscle groups. To put it in perspective, I've been using hand tools all my life, I was a contractor for years, and after flyfishing for a decade tried the key grip; my hand still got sore and tired. Also, a pet peeve of mine is the very common advice to keep the rod tip in a straight path. That's nearly impossible, and would require your hand to travel in a big "U" shaped casting stroke. I advise my students to make their hand travel in a straight path. I tell them to pretend they're using a hand saw at shoulder level. Lastly, watching the backcast usually ruins a perfectly good cast. With the stance you've prescribed, the shoulders will rotate when they turn their heads, and the backcast will hook (or slice, I guess). If you really want them to watch their backcast (which I don't), have them open their stance almost 180 degrees, and cast more left and right, rather than front and back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 Thanks for the tips everyone! I am teaching junior high aged students; just so you know. In my experience, the thumb-on-top grip promotes excessive wrist action and it can be difficult to correct. So this year, as an experiment, I am choosing to try the extended finger or key grip. I'll see how it goes. We do cover a lot of the "theory" during lunch time classes, so the kids should be grounded in the basics; but I think I'll include more diagrams... I do find watching the back cast has helped a number of kids, but I wasn't explicit; I do have the kids stand sideways so that they can accomplish this without the "hook" or "slice"... And Junior's point about straight line path is well taken... Cheers! Smitty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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