Jump to content
Fly Fusion Forums

jack

Members
  • Posts

    498
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jack

  1. Company that I'm with just filled an order to a distributor in Ontario for "steel head rods": 12'6" 7/8wt spey rods is what he requested. 200 of them. j
  2. If you have an uncontrollable urge to play with really big 'bows, maybe plan around the last part of April. I know this lake see..................... If you rattle my chain around April 1st, I can let you know when ice is coming off. The 4-5 days after ice off is pretty incredible. Nooo, it's even better than that. Talk Brunsie into a road trip, he knows the way. j
  3. Run, do not walk, back to your dealer for an exchange. Stuff happens, S.A is good for it. j
  4. That's a C49S Mustad Caddis, and having spent some time on Mustad's pro-staff(until last August), I am really only familiar with Mustad numbers, but the hook name is not as important as the good wide gap that most caddis hooks provide. For most larvae, I use a #12 R52S and occasionally a C53S. By the way, here in the Cariboo, there are a couple of lakes that produce a "different" strain of larvae, that usually show up immediately after a strong wind has stirred the water up and the turbulence has sucked immature larvae from their mud tubes. The trout immediately go cruising about 6" to a foot off the bottom, making an easy meal of these wiggling larvae that are trying to make their way back into the mud. Happens on shoals about 10-15' deep, with marl(white mud) bottoms. This is "the killer", size 14, note the white gills at both ends and the minor hump of a "head": That is a #14 C53S hook, nylon yarn, gold thread rib and white nylon yarn gills. j
  5. Can I jump in here with a suggestion regarding chironomids, guys? One of the most important things about fishing chironomids(next to being in the right place in the water column) is the profile of the bug. Chironomid larvae(bloodworms) are slim, tubular shaped things, but as they become pupae, chironomids develop a pronounced tapered shape and as they rise to the surface, prior to emergence, they begin to develop their wingcase which creates an even more pronounced taper and thorax bulge. When tying chironomid pupae patterns, build up the shank from the curve of the hook to the bead head in somewhat of a taper, with thread, prior to wrapping with underbody or body material. The taper, when complete, should cover the bottom 1/3 of the bead head. To illustrate, this is a pattern developed for trophy trout in the BC interior stillwaters(Cariboo), by a very talented tyer and anal chironomid fisher by the name of Tom Lam. The pattern, as I said, incorporates an initial tapered wrap of thread, then a fine copper wire rib, blue dental dam rubber (or blue cellophane from Easter Egg baskets?), with an overbody of antistatic wrap. Trust me, the tapered look works. j
  6. I keep the Discovery10 Standup half-inflated sitting on the upturned hull of another boat, totally tarped over and secured. The side-bags are hanging in the basement. I figure when I can walk to the 'toon, and take the tarp off, it's time.
  7. Hi Colin !! Yeah, property values will dive, now! j
  8. No, but rigged with a skagit head and a 4/0 treble, you can belly-snag PETA members! They're like pike though, after the initial short, hard thrashing around, they just become a drag. No real stamina. j
  9. I'd like a rod somewhere near 4km long.Check With precise precision.Check It has to be able to fold up into my hand and weigh less that 3oz.Check Something at home drifting $4.00 worth of feathers and silk delicately across a spot of water as well as hucking $6.00 worth of deer hair, hackle and lead onto the far bank.Check I want a rod with character...like Joe Pecicci in Good Fellas.Sorry, how about Mell Gibson in "Brave Heart" ? I want a rod that is able to, at my command, either become a walkie talkie or a police baton.Why not BOTH ? I want a rod that buzzes like a light saber.That's a hum, not a buzz, you're thinking of something else. I want a rod with 640 gigs of memory.Is 1028 gb OK? I want a rod with free nights and weekends.Sorry, they don't swing that way. I want a rod that loves me for me.Just as soon as we find out exactly what you are. I want a rod that has a stealth mode.Check I want a rod with build in GPS and cupholders.You want the cupholders to balance or counter balance ? I want the rod Batman would use if Batman needed to flyfish.This IS the rod Batman uses.
  10. Mornin' Brunsie ! Yeah, you could only fly under the radar for so long! j
  11. I'm totally ignorant of the new fiberglass stuff. I have two that were built in the mid-'60s. My Lamiglas spey is graphite(the old Mike Maxwell taper 5/7wt). Gawwwwd ! All I need is another distraction! I must pick your brain about those rods when I'm done with my latest three simultaneous projects! I'll bug you after March the 9th. j
  12. I thank you for those most kind words, 'Bow. I'm anticipating a couple of trips to your "turf" in the next year, so will try and absorb as much practical info as I can and will do my best to make it a two-way street. j
  13. Thanks, Tung: Actually my first "co-op" design was prototyped, tested and approved late last fall, and the first 200 units were produced last week. Can't spill the beans just yet, as the introduction will not be until March 6th at the Fraser Valley Boat & Sportsmen's Show. There will be a couple of these new rods being test flown in Edmonton and Calgary/Lethbridge, shortly after that. I can tell you that it will be a 5wt, fast action, lifetime warranty and retail at $250 or less. Full details when it's time. Promise. j
  14. Hey Bloom! I knew you'd be here! Just now planning another trip. Going to have to drag you a tad further West this time, want to spend a day or two on the Granby? I will contact you by email a little later in the winter. Want to send a couple of prototypes out for your critical evaluation. My rule is, once the water gets soft, work gets put away! So I have to get as many people involved as possible, so I can compile and get it done before ice-off. regards j
  15. http://www.flyfisherman.com/rodbuilding/ Free advise(worth every penny): Keep your first project simple(so you can learn the basics first) Keep it inexpensive(You won't know whether you actually LIKE doing it, right?) Build it for someone else(You WILL make little mistakes, nobody but you will know, but they will nag at you) Be methodical( follow a pre-thought out, logical, step by step, once things are epoxied, you can't go back) Take your time(see "methodical") Reserve a spot where it will be undisturbed over hours of drying time Hope that helps j
  16. Just a tip from "a new guy" to this forum, but substantial "time in" with pontoons(former Outcast Pro-Staff) who lives in central BC and has no heated storage. If you can, leave it partially inflated, that prevents the valves from opening and allowing dust and air-born debris from contaminating the valve seal. Cold will not hurt them at all, as long as they are not treated roughly when frozen hard. Always store them out of direct sunlight, of course. In the spring, prior to use, I deflate about 80%, open the outer shell and wipe the inside of the shell and outside of the bladders with a soft cloth damp with methyl hydrate. That will take care of any condensed moisture that has accumulated between the bladders and the shells. When I first inflate the 'toon, (and it may be a bit chilly yet, but who doesn't "push it"?) I use a reversed shopvac(after it's blowing clean air) to inflate the pontoons. The vac blows warm air and that will take all the wrinkles and folds out of the cold materials. j
  17. Hey guys: I'm Jack, and the author of the survey. And yes, it is legit. I recently took a position with a Canadian fishing equipment manufacturer, headquartered/warehouse(and owner lives) in Burnaby, BC. I am tasked with developing fly fishing products for the Canadian, U.S and European market. The online survey on as many cooperating forums as possible, was my brainwave. The concept is to ask real fly fishers what they would like to have in their hands if they could choose their fly rod. No promo, no spam, no BS. I would simply like to know, if you could pick just one(and as a guy who owns 20+ fly rods, for 10 different fishing situations and a backup for each, I really do know what that question entails), what it would be. I would like to know if the market is meeting the requirements of flyfishers and if not, then just maybe the manufacturer that I am involved with could do something constructive about it. Intro: Just for everyone's info, I am Director of Marketing and Product Development for Amundson Fly Fishing. Been chucking feathers for almost 25 years, mostly wave the stick over the incredibly productive trout stillwaters of the Cariboo/Chilcotin, in BC, but I have been known to skulk along the Elk River, Crowsnest, Highwood, Bow, and some special creeks off the Forestry Trunk Road that are tribs of the Old Man. Been tying and creating patterns for about 15 years, building fly rods for 10 years. Retired early so I could do more fly fishing. (Accepted the "Director" thing because it provided an opportunity to play with and create some cool stuff!). We really do appreciate the crew here for their support and look forward to doing some product testing and reviews when the water gets a bit softer. We have received almost a hundred responses so far, from two web forums(FlyBC.ca and WesternSportfishing.ca). A very high percentage are concise, specific and very articulate and very much appreciated. Appreciate your input and thank you for your time and the sharing of your knowledge. j
×
×
  • Create New...