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DonAndersen

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Posts posted by DonAndersen

    Things That Caught My Eye At The Show

    in General Chat - Not Fishing Related (NFR)

    Posted

    Guys/Gals,

     

    Spent Sunday wandering around the FF Show in Calgary looking at this and that.

     

    There were several things that caught my eye.

     

    1] The Hobie Fishing Kayak see: Glenmore Boats just off 16th Ave. Good guys run this place - I get my rod varnish from them.

     

    2] Semperfli nano silk that Gary Hanke showed me - for the info see:http://www.semperfli.net/nano-silk-50-denier.html

     

    3] Semperfli tying Scissors see:http://www.semperfli.net/6-finger-fly-tying-scissors.html

     

    4] The travellarereel which is a reel body that comes with 4 spools. The provided spools are for 2/3, 4/5, 6/7, & 8/9

    see:www thetravellerreel.com for more info. The web site is now up http://thetravellerreel.com/

     

    5] The lazer engraving of cork handles by Erich Bittmann see:http://www.troutnv.com/

     

    Semperfli products can be found at Fishtales.

     

    Did I miss anything?

     

    regards,

     

     

    Don

    Rio Grand Vs Rio Gold

    in Ask the Pros

    Posted

    Had a Rio line once. Gave it away to a guy who rarely casts over 30'. The running line is too thin and constantly tangles which is a issue I've never had with Cortland or Sci. An. Lines.

    Rio - save it for lassoing the cat?

     

    Don

    • Like 1

    Fly Reel Not Seating Well With Rod (Wiggling After Tightening)

    in General Chat - Fishing Related

    Posted

    A permanent repair can be done with shim stock and epoxy.

    Get some 0.005" brass from Princess Auto. Cut a piece of shim stock 50% wider that the reel foot. Shape to size, with a felt pen, mark cut line and trim to shape. Test fit BEFORE gluing. You may need two pieces.

    Using 5 minute epoxy, glue down the shim.

    Heat will remove the shim if needed.

    Cut shim stock with scissors - not your fly tying ones and to save your marriage, not your wife's sewing scissors.

    Works fine.

     

    Don

    • Like 1

    Fishing Chironomids Without An Indicator

    in Ask the Pros

    Posted

    Cgyguy,

     

    I get to fish waters that have trout >5 lbs. that need stronger tippets and hooks. I therefore use 3X and Mustad C68 2x short 2x strong hooks. 5X is only used for very clear waters. I do not vary tippet size to hook weight/size. Even used 3X on some size 18's last year with a lot of success.

    I often wonder if leader OD matters much if fluro. is used.

    Two of the larger fish caught last year were caught on a 3X dropper off a 8 lb.. Vanish leader that measures 0.011" which is generally equivalent to 0X leader material. The dropper loop is 3/4" OD with the dropper line run line of 4". The dropper was attached to the fly using a loop knot. All these means is that a lot of leader was in the immediate area of the fly. Didn't matter much.

    Chironomid sizes vary widely. Alberta seems to have the widest variance of the four western provinces I fished. Size 20>6 4XL. BC tends to be smaller and thinner. Sask. and Manitoba are much like Alberta although my experience in these two is limited.

    I tend to use sizes 14 and 12 C68 hooks.

    Experimentation and experience will help with my learning.

    Damn winter gets in the way.

     

    Catch ya'

     

    Don

    Fishing Chironomids Without An Indicator

    in Ask the Pros

    Posted

    Brookie,

     

    Long leadering chironomids works sometimes -better than bobbers sometimes - worse - sometimes. It is just another technique on the stillwater arsenal.

     

    I've been doing this type of fishing for about 10 years. It has it's place.

     

    Here are some thoughts:

     

    1] leader length is <>25% longer than water depth.

    2] I use Berkely Vanish 8>12 lb. test as the main leader to which I attach Rio Fluoro of 3>5X. I mostly use 3X

    3] I use a top quality long belly fly line. Am presently using Sci. Anglers Mastery Textured Series trout - see discussion on fly line type below.

    4] do not use metal beads as the sink rate is too fast. If beads are used, I use either plastic or glass. The hooks are heavy wire.

    5] as I fish for some decent sized fish, hook strength is important. Tiemco #2457 or Mustad C068NP-BR

    6] retrieval rate is important. Slow is best - very slow is better. A pull or 2 of 2>3" followed by a pause and repeat. Vary the retrieval rate a little

    7] casting nearly straight down wind is critical to keeping a tight line between the fly and you. Big bellys are ugly.

    8] The technique tends to be useful in water depths of greater than 10'.

    9] rod length is not critical. I use a bamboo rod of 8' and get casts exceeding 70'. Covering the water is critical. Keeping your fly in the water is critical. If you insist on constant casting take up yoga.

    10] anchoring is important. I use one anchor and keep the pontoon boat aligned with fins. Two anchors would be better on bigger boats.

    11] what is the deepest water you can fish? I've run 35' leaders in 29>33' of water. Catch fish - sure.

    12] learn to cast a long leader. What I've found most effective is roll cast the line till the line out of the rod tip is approximately the same length as the leader length. Make one false cast laying the line straight on the water. Using the water to load the rod, make one cast and shoot. This cast should get you about 60' or so of line + leader out of the tip top.

    13] how long do you let the fly sink depends on water depth and fly weight. I typically use 15 seconds for 10'.

    14] retrieve the fly till the line is within 2' of the rod tip. I've have many days where the only strikes came as the fly rose off the bottom and started to ascend.

    As I pointed out, I'm still learning. The Sci. Ang. line was added this year. Went from 12>8 lb. Vanish this year. Tried multil -fly rigs this year with success. The learning continues.

     

    Your choice of fly line will improve your success. Typical WF fly lines are a pain in the butt as the running lines are thin and tangle readily. If you look at the line profiles for the Sci Ang. Mastery Trout . or Corlands Trout Boss in the links below, the belly of the line is obvious. I had a Rio WF line and after 2 days of frustration I gave it away to a guy who rarely cast over 30'.

     

    http://buy.scientificanglers.com/lines/mastery-textured-series/mastery-textured-series-trout.html

    http://www.cortlandline.com/fly-fishing/freshwater/precision-floating/trout-boss-orange

     

    And for a view of the Mustad Signature Hooks. see:http://www.mustad.no/americas/2012_catl/pdfs_aug2012/122_133%20Signature%20Hooks_SHf.pdf

     

    And lastly, all the fish overt 5 lbs. caught this year were on long leadering techniques.

     

    Any more questions, give a shout.

     

    And I gotta go plane some cane.

     

    regards,

     

     

    Don

    • Like 8

    Not For Young Eyes... Progressives Or Bi-Focals

    in General Chat - Not Fishing Related (NFR)

    Posted

    Used to get my bi-foals set lower so that items at foot level were in focus. Especially important for wading.

    I use progressives now. They are a pain in the butt as you have to move your head around to get into focus. But for varying focal lengths, from reading a micrometer at 14" to seeing a Computer scene at 36"', to tying flies @ 10"'and on and on, progressives were the only choice.

     

    Don

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