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Best fished hanging in the surface film. A truly wonderful pattern the simplicity of which is in stark contrast to it's complex fish taking ability. Tying Materials Hook: To suit yourself. I will demonstrate on a Fulling Mill Easy AP Light Size 18. Thread: UTC70 Yellow Body: Fibres from a hares mask used as dubbing. You may use dubbing colour and materail type to suit the tastes of your fish. Vary the thread colour to suit. Yelow works well with hares ear dubbing because it will not change the colour of the dubbed fur when wet. Rib: Fine silver wire Breathers and shuck: White or pearl savage hair Tying Method Step 1: Secure the hook in the vice with point protruding. Catch in the yellow thread and trim off waste. Step 2: Catch in a length of fine silver wire and wind back the thread to a point approximately 1/3rd down the length of the shank. Step 3: Select a few savage hair fibres, pinch them tight between your finger and thumb. Step 4: Secure the savage hair along the hook shank with a few touching turns of thread. Step 5: Wind back to a point just in front of the bend of the hook in touching turns. The body thus far should be slim and parallel. Step 6: Pinch out some fibres from a hairs mask. You may choose to use a dubbing rake. I use finger and thumb. Ensure to get as broad a mix of colours as available and include a few guard hairs. Step 7: Form a dubbing rope using the hairs face fur. The rope should be slender. Step 8: Build a body by winding the fur up the hook. With practice you will be able to vary body thicknesses and tapers. Step 9: Form a rib by winding the silver wire in open turns. Tie in the wire behind the eye and burn off by rotating the wire. Step 10: Whip finish and cut off the thread end. A small spot of varnish will seal the head. Tying continues in part 2

Poly Winged Midge Part 2 Step 11: I have selected this hook type to demonstrate a 'half tie' method for this style of fly. Omitting the wing and only using half a body it is possible to suggest a smaller fly for a larger hook. You may wish to consider this should you wish to start tying smaller flies than you currently undertake. I have included this here because it was the first fly that I ever tried the 'half tie' method on when I first started fly dressing.

This pattern can be tied in sizes from 14 to 26. In the larger sizes black seals fur tends to be used for the body. I have elected to omit the dubbing. There is a supplementary step at no 11 which bears no reference to the actual tying but is offered as 'food for thought'. Tying Materials Hook: Size 14 - 26 Dry fly. Demonstrated using a Fulling Mill Easy AP Light barbless size 18. Thread: Black UTC70 Rib: Fine silver wire. Wing: White savage hair. Hackle: Black cock Tying Method Step 1: Secure the hook in the vice with the point protruding. Step 2: Catch in the thread and trim off tag end. Step 3: Catch in fine wire and wind back to a point opposite the hook point. Step 4: Wind thread forward. Wind the wire in open turns to form rib and tie in with 2 turns of thread. Step 5: After removing waste end of wire select a few strands of white savage hair. Step 6: Tie in savage hair as a wing. Length is not too important as we can trim to proportion upon completion. Step 7: Select a black cock hackle with fibre length approximately 1 to 1-1/2 times hook gape. Step 8: Catch in the cock hackle and wind as a throat hackle. Step 9: Tie in hackle and trim waste end. Step 10: Whip finish, varnish and trim poly wing to correct proportion. Tying continues in part 2

Bibio Hopper Part 2 Step 11: Prepare the hackle by stripping the fibres from the stalk base. Tie it in and wind a throat hackle before trimming off the waste hackle end. Step 12: Whip finish, trim off and of course a spot of varnish seals the head. Step 13: Fore and aft and dare I say it what a 'cute' little derriere

The fly is a hybrid incorporating Bibio and hopper. The Bibio is a great traditional Irish loch or louch style fly. I am unaware of the origins of the hopper. Fished as top dropper or by itself as a single offering in a big wave it can be deadly in its day. Tying Materials Hook: Gamakatsu Executive 110 Size 14 Thread: Black UTC70 Rib: UTC oval silver tinsel Body: Black seals fur/ orange 'hot spot' hares ear dyed orange or poly dub/ black seals fur Legs: 6 Dyed black barbs from a cock pheasant centre tail Hackle: Black cock Tying Method Step 1: Secure the hook in the vice with the point protruding. Step 2: Catch in the thread, trim the tag end. Catch in a length of silver tinsel and thread back to shank end. Step 3: pinch out a small amount of black seals fur or sub. Form a slim dubbing rope. Step 4: Wind the black dubbing to form a short back end body. Pinch out a small amount of orange dyed hares mask or poly dub and form more dubbing rope. This will form the 'hot spot'. Step 5: Wind the orange hot spot and then form more black dubbing rope as described in step 3. Step 6: Finish wind the body using the black dubbing. Step 7: Form a rib by winding the silver tinsel in open turns. Step 8: From a dyed black cock pheasant centre tail select and knot 6 barbs. I prefer to knot 2 groups of 2 barbs and 2 groups of 1 barb. This is purely a personal choice and ratio is not important but there should be an even number of barbs used. Step 9: Divide up the pheasant fibres into 2 even numbered groups and tie them into the body as legs. The legs should be parallel to the body or angled slightly below horizontal. Step 10: Select a hackle from a black cock cape. The fibre length should be approximately 1 to 1-1/2 times the gape of the hook. Tying continues in part 2

Single Feather Mayfly Part 3 Step 20: Do not worry if wings split slightly. There is no overall adverse effect. Step 21: Whip finish and apply a small amount of varnish to seal the head Step 22: Ugly little sod but it's mine all mine

Single Feather Mayfly Part 2 Step 11: Cut a 'V' profile into the remaining 1/3rd of the fibres to form tails. Step 12: Tie in the mallard feather after once again stroking back the fibres. Take care when judging the overbody length. With a little practise this will become much easier to gauge. Stroke the remaining fibres forward. these will later become the wings. Step 13: Select a badger coloured cock hackle. Step 14: The hackle fibres should measure approximate 1 to 1-1/2 times the gape of the hook Step 15: Tie in the badger hackle Step 16: Wind the feather as a throat hackle. Step 17: Split the forward fibres using ' figure of 8' turns to form a pair of wings. Step 18: Trim the wings to the correct length ensuring that the fly is in correct proportion. Step 19: Fix the wings into final fixed position with a couple of turns of thread. TYING CONTINUES IN PART 3

This fly has the curious distinction of being dressed with a single feather for the tails, overbody and wings. Hey wait a minute!!! It's called a Single Feather Mayfly DOH!!!! Tying Materials Hook: Gamakatsu Executive 110 Size 12 Barbless Thread: Yellow UTC70 Rib: Fine silver wire Dubbing: Cream yellow seals fur or subs Tails / overbody / wing: Yellow dyed mallard feather Hackle: Badger cock hackle The Tying Step 1: Secure the hook in the vice with the point protruding and catch in the yellow thread. Step 2: Catch in a length of fine round silver wire. Step 3: Wind the thread to the rear of the hook going past a point opposite the to the hook point. Step 4: Pinch a small amount of cream yellow dubbing material. Step 5: Form a fine dubbing rope by adding small amounts of dubbing material. Step 6: Form a body by winding the rope to a point behind the eye. Stop quite short as there needs to be an allowance for both wings and throat hackle. Step 7: Use the silver wire in open turns to form a rib. At the eye tie in and 'burn off' waste wire. This is done by circling the wire end until it breaks at the intersection of the tying thread. Step 8: Select a yellow dyed mallard feather with quite long fibres. Step 9: Prepare the feather by removing the downy fibres from the base of the stalk. Step 10: From about 1/3rd from the end of the feather ease back the fibres against their natural bias. POSTING CONTINUES IN PART 2 OF THREAD

If you get hold of a complete dark starling skin you should be able to pluck matched left and right feathers from either wing. If you refer to Scotflys excellent step by step on selecting wing feathers and tying them in on the step by step section of ukflydressing .co.uk he has quite a unique talent for simplifying issues to the point that even I can follow them. P.S. Don't tell him that I told you beacuse I love to wind him up and tell him that his tying is absolute pants Regards Geoff

Lots of people in Europe have latched on to this vice, I did not see why until I bought one. I have had mine now for a couple of weeks and the more I use it the more I couldn't be without it. LAW bench vice http://www.danica.com/flytier/law/law_bv.htm

Part 2 of 2 part step by step Step 9: Burn off waste wire end. Step 10: Select a short feather from a hen pheasant wing. Step 11; Prepare the feather by removing the fibres from the bottom end. Step 12: Tie in the feather. Step 13: Wind the feather to form a collar hackle. Step 14: Ease back the hackle so that it flows slightly back towards the hook point. Step 15: Whip finish and trim off thread. Step 16; Apply a small spot of clear varnish to seal the head.

This is my own twisted angle on a traditional pattern. I hope that you can all make sense of it and that it proves useful. Tying Materials Hook: size 16 heavy gauge wet fly hook - I prefer this style of hook because the hackle can cause the fly to hold up high in water and the heavier hook will counter this. Thread: Black UTC70 Body: 2 Centre tail fibres from a cock pheasant centre tail. Rib: Fine round silver wire. Hackle: Short feather from a hen pheasant wing. Step 1: Secure the hook in the vice with the point protruding. Step 2: Catch in the thread and trim waste end. Step 3: Catch in fine silver wire and wind the thread back to the bend of the hook. Step 4: Select a cock pheasant centre tail feather. Mine is quite heavily used. Step 5: Select 2 barbs from the cock pheasant centre tail. Step 6: Tie in the 2 barbs from the centre tail. Step 7: Wind the pheasant tail barbs to form the body. Step 8: Make 2 or 3 tight turns of silver wire to form a tag then use open turns to form a rib. This tying continues in next thread

You need to view a Scottish fellow bumming around Irelands exclusive and fantastic step by step postings. They are really very good though it pains me greatly to have to admit it.