Fisherwoman Posted June 4, 2009 Posted June 4, 2009 Hi, Could I cut off some of my sinking line and make leaders out of them. This way if I have some float line on I can attach some precut line at the end and it'll sink a bit better with the weight of it. Thanks. Quote
Tungsten Posted June 4, 2009 Posted June 4, 2009 I have chopped up some of my old lines and put loops on the ends,works good.A three foot chunk of leadcore line makes for a good sink tip.I have also made some out of my old slime line. Quote
fishguide76 Posted June 4, 2009 Posted June 4, 2009 I have chopped up some of my old lines and put loops on the ends,works good.A three foot chunk of leadcore line makes for a good sink tip.I have also made some out of my old slime line. Orvis makes some attachable sink tips for around $15 bucks comes with three different tips with loops attached works great. Quote
jack Posted June 5, 2009 Posted June 5, 2009 If you are fishing rivers(more than 4-6' deep), an old "Left Coast" trick is to separate the floating line and the sinking tip with a 3'-4' length of 25-30lb mono. This allows the floating line to stay on top of the water, the sinktip to settle below the faster flow(top foot or so of water on a river) and effectively get down to the slower water near the bottom where fish travel. The thin diameter mono does not "hydraulically lift" the sink tip from the bottom like a larger diameter fly line would. j Quote
Tungsten Posted June 5, 2009 Posted June 5, 2009 If you are fishing rivers(more than 4-6' deep), an old "Left Coast" trick is to separate the floating line and the sinking tip with a 3'-4' length of 25-30lb mono. This allows the floating line to stay on top of the water, the sinktip to settle below the faster flow(top foot or so of water on a river) and effectively get down to the slower water near the bottom where fish travel. The thin diameter mono does not "hydraulically lift" the sink tip from the bottom like a larger diameter fly line would. j AHHH GEE'S there goes my lifetime secret. Just kidding. Thats sounds good but i think that would put a new meaning to chuck and duck. But for science i'm going to try that out. Quote
jack Posted June 5, 2009 Posted June 5, 2009 It's actually a common setup on steelhead rivers in Warshington and Oregon. Brian Niska developed a new Loop "Whistler" Spey Line(manufactured by S.A.) that incorporates the concept into a single spey line with a very small diameter section in between the sinking heads and the floating head section of the line. Brian explained the concept to me on the phone one evening, two winters ago and I used it on the Bella Coola for salmon and the unintentional steelhead last year. It works for spey and single hand. My next "research" is on the Columbia this summer. That is big water and pretty deep(12'-15') in places where one would like to drag a weighted "Electric Bow River Bugger" through. Keep in mind that you won't need as much of a sinking head if you use this system, the T14 doesn't have to drag the floating line down with it, so less weighted line is required. j Quote
maxwell Posted June 5, 2009 Posted June 5, 2009 jsut swing by some flyshops and pick up some bulk sink tip in a few densities.. usually fairly cheap maybe a buck a foot or so! unless u are itchin too chop up a old line and use that instead! but if it were me i would save it for the few times i fish lakes! Quote
ÜberFly Posted June 11, 2009 Posted June 11, 2009 Jack, Great tip!! Question... How does this set up cast (and do you need to adjust your stroke in any way, shape or form)?! Cheers, Peter If you are fishing rivers(more than 4-6' deep), an old "Left Coast" trick is to separate the floating line and the sinking tip with a 3'-4' length of 25-30lb mono. This allows the floating line to stay on top of the water, the sinktip to settle below the faster flow(top foot or so of water on a river) and effectively get down to the slower water near the bottom where fish travel. The thin diameter mono does not "hydraulically lift" the sink tip from the bottom like a larger diameter fly line would. j Quote
jack Posted June 11, 2009 Posted June 11, 2009 Jack, Great tip!! Question... How does this set up cast (and do you need to adjust your stroke in any way, shape or form)?! Cheers, Peter It is an exercise in using a bit of patience and allowing the backcast to form and load the rod. For guys who insist on the fore and back "rapidcast" and who can't adapt, it will be a disaster. It is not as ungainly as chuck 'n duck, though. j Quote
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