birchy Posted April 7, 2008 Posted April 7, 2008 Someone wrote an awesome article and equipment maintenance and posted it on here approx. a year ago. But I can't for the life of me find it! If someone could post a link that'd be great. Quote
SanJuanWorm Posted April 7, 2008 Posted April 7, 2008 Coles notes: Clean your gear you lazy bastard. The end. Quote
Lundvike Posted April 7, 2008 Posted April 7, 2008 Silver Doctor wrote an excellent article on the old forums about gear care. I was looking for it too. Thoughts on Equipment Care by Silver Doctor Quote
EdB Posted April 7, 2008 Posted April 7, 2008 so i take it you can just buy oil tubes at the fly shops for your reels? Quote
Lundvike Posted April 7, 2008 Posted April 7, 2008 A question for Silver Doctor or anyone, I just came back from Wisconsin and I cleaned my waders before I left but I would like to disinfect them any recommendation on how to do this. I have had suggestions of bleach or some chemical called 4109? Quote
birchy Posted April 7, 2008 Author Posted April 7, 2008 so i take it you can just buy oil tubes at the fly shops for your reels? Go to Wholesale Sports and ask them for the "blue reel goop". They should know what you mean. Great stuff! Quote
Guest bigbadbrent Posted April 7, 2008 Posted April 7, 2008 A question for Silver Doctor or anyone, I just came back from Wisconsin and I cleaned my waders before I left but I would like to disinfect them any recommendation on how to do this. I have had suggestions of bleach or some chemical called 4109? Felt-soled waders and boots Fishing footwear containing absorbent material, such as felt-soled waders and boots, poses a high risk of didymo transfer—these items are likely to come into direct physical contact with didymo cells (e.g., stepping on or brushing against algal mats), and the moisture retained in these goods helps cell survival. Choose one of the following treatments specific to felt-soled waders and boots: Hot water: If hot water alone is used, careful attention is needed to ensure the temperature of the water is maintained at no less that 45 °C for 40 minutes to ensure the interior of the felt reaches a sufficient temperature to kill all cells; OR Hot water and detergent: The entire felt sole and boot needs to be completely immersed for 30 minutes in hot tap water kept above 45 °C (uncomfortably hot to touch) containing 5% dishwashing detergent or nappy cleaner; OR Freeze until solid: The time required until the boot is frozen solid will vary depending upon the grade of material, how much moisture it contains and the efficiency of the freezer. Freezing overnight should work in most instances. Drying: Relying on ambient drying as a stand-alone treatment for decontaminating highly absorbent risk goods such as felt-soled waders and boots is not recommended in situations where use between waterways is frequent (daily, weekly or even monthly). Drying should only be relied upon as a decontamination treatment if great care is taken to actively and completely dry the felt (such as by using a heat source where temperatures around the felt are assured of reaching 30 °C). Once the felt appears dry, complete dryness must be confirmed by a tactile inspection of the felt pile to the base of the fibres. Once completely dry, items must remain dry for at least 48 hours before use in another waterway. These instructions for decontaminating felt soled waders and boots can be used for other absorbent materials. If you do not want to decontaminate your gear, you should restrict use to a single waterway. For the following items, use the treatment options given in the Check Clean Dry message and for more options see the Table of Didymo Survival Results above. Fishing and eeling equipment All rods, reels, fishing lines, flies, tackle boxes, nets, clothing and other equipment should be thoroughly soaked in a decontamination solution. Alternatively, use the hot water treatment or freeze gear until solid. Allow longer time for absorbent items. After treatment, items may then be rinsed with water that has come from a town water supply. Drying is an acceptable alternative method, provided that all components (such as backing lines, nets and clothing) are completely dry to the touch, inside and out, and then left dry for at least another 48 hours before entering a different waterway. If you do not want to decontaminate your gear, you should restrict use to a single waterway. Quote
birchy Posted April 7, 2008 Author Posted April 7, 2008 Does anyone know if vinegar is corrosive to fly fishing gear?? We've been using a white vinegar/water solution for alot of cleaning in our house. Works wonders.. and isn't a chemical. Quote
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