Fisherwoman Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 Hi, When making flies out of these hairs, I understand the hairs which is being used are hallow, makes a better float, human hair is no damn good. What part of the animal is the hair taken from? Back. rump, neck. Are the animals breed for fly tying? Are they organic? Quote
Din Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 as an added question. I may be able to get some hair from some hunters....how would you treat it to get rid of the bugs? also how can you die the hairs? Quote
Fisherwoman Posted November 6, 2007 Author Posted November 6, 2007 as an added question. I may be able to get some hair from some hunters....how would you treat it to get rid of the bugs? also how can you die the hairs? Hi, Treat it for bugs.. I've been told to use moth balls put the hair in a bag with the moth balls leave it for few weeks... Or.... Use bleach Borax bleach soak it dry it than it's ok.. Someone helped me with that at Fish Tails, Quote
Din Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 Hi, Treat it for bugs.. I've been told to use moth balls put the hair in a bag with the moth balls leave it for few weeks... Or.... Use bleach Borax bleach soak it dry it than it's ok.. Someone helped me with that at Fish Tails, thanks fisherwoman. sorry have no idea to help out with your questions Quote
ladystrange Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 any hair will work from the deer family from most places on the body. that being said, the really short stuff from the legs and ears wont be of much help. moose, elk, white tail and mule are the most popular. caribou and antelope tend to be rather fragile. mane, neck, back, rump, shoulder, belly will all work just fine. i doubt it is organic, but you can purchase from any of the fly supply shops. sorry, i have never bothered to ask superfly where they get their deer from. note to self, ask at sportsman show... maybe that is where all the road kill goes... hummm if you have a hunter friend, make sure the hide is fleshed well and either dried/salted/boraxed or professionally tanned. to get rid of bugs, i just nuke it in the microwave for 15 sec. moth balls dont always work and it stinks. keep in a cool dark place for all furs as for dying, unless you have expreience with picric, i'd stay away from it. it is very volitile and nasty to work with. i buy all my dyed stuff. i dont want the hassle or the work. Quote
Flytyer Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 You can treat piees of fresh hide with pickling salt as well but scrap as much of the fat off the hide as possible to help the curing process. As for hair from various parts of the animal this link should help http://globalflyfisher.com/staff/helm/selecting/chart.html Quote
lonefisher Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 love dyeing (dying,dieing) stuff.....I use the koolaid method google it and you should find a site explaining dying wool with koolaid works the same for most animal products I have dyed. Though I have only done feathers and deer hair. couldn't find any yellow koolaid though so I have dyed stuff yellow using tumeric.... works but took forever to kill the tumeric smell to my nose 2 hot cycles is a mesh baggie in the wash seemed to work..... I am still not sure if fish can smell the remnants but I don't think so.... For fairly dark hairs I would think you might have to start by bleaching if you wanted a decent dye job..... but I haven't done this. The deer hair under the fly in this pic are examples of koolaid (and tumeric) dyeing. As to the actual original questions I don't believe when hair is the topic that animals are bred for tying..... but I'm not sure.....birds are in some cases for sure but animals I think not...... As for organic.... I don't understand the question Quote
ladystrange Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 free range, like chickens in the market - organic, if bred. i guess technically any wild free range animal would be considered organic. koolaid, i always thought koolaid would run. how do you set it? LF, i have a whole rubbermaid container of mule and white tail. the koolaid is a much better option than picric. do you have a website or instructions? Quote
Fisherwoman Posted November 6, 2007 Author Posted November 6, 2007 any hair will work from the deer family from most places on the body. that being said, the really short stuff from the legs and ears wont be of much help. moose, elk, white tail and mule are the most popular. caribou and antelope tend to be rather fragile. mane, neck, back, rump, shoulder, belly will all work just fine. i doubt it is organic, but you can purchase from any of the fly supply shops. sorry, i have never bothered to ask superfly where they get their deer from. note to self, ask at sportsman show... maybe that is where all the road kill goes... hummm if you have a hunter friend, make sure the hide is fleshed well and either dried/salted/boraxed or professionally tanned. to get rid of bugs, i just nuke it in the microwave for 15 sec. moth balls dont always work and it stinks. keep in a cool dark place for all furs as for dying, unless you have expreience with picric, i'd stay away from it. it is very volitile and nasty to work with. i buy all my dyed stuff. i dont want the hassle or the work. Hi, Thank-you Lady Strange for your valuable information.. What I've seen in some of the shops that sell moose hair, deer hair,ect it's very affordable. As for dying it Seems alot of messy work to go that route. It's not important to me where the fur comes from if it's organic or not, I thought I would ask that question, I wondered if farms raised these animals for the pelt to be sold. like dairy farms. Quote
Flytyer Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 Don't nuke your materials to kill bugs it doesn't kill everything. Some bugs are very heat resistant Quote
ladystrange Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 that's why it stays in the freezer before it goes in the nuker. i guess i forgot to mention that. everything that i get from my taxidermist is treated already because of the work he does. i just can't stand the smell of moth balls. reminds me of granny and i want to puke Quote
Flytyer Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 The combination of freeze nuke isn't effective either.The most effective way of getting rid of most potential or actual pests is by washing your materials in warm soapy water, and rinsing very thoroughly.. This will also improve many materials with regard to their appearance, and handling qualities. Quote
Fisherwoman Posted November 6, 2007 Author Posted November 6, 2007 You can treat piees of fresh hide with pickling salt as well but scrap as much of the fat off the hide as possible to help the curing process. As for hair from various parts of the animal this link should help http://globalflyfisher.com/staff/helm/selecting/chart.html Hi, This website is very helpful, it gives me a good idea where and what the hair is used when it comes to fly tying... It takes very little deer, moose ect to tie a fly. I looked at the pheasant it can be sold in sections I bought half of one last weekend for $15.00 there's more then enough for fly tying for one person to tie. There's grades of feathers, # 1, #2, #3 ect. Some more expensive than others depending on qulity of finished product the fly. My question to organic, is the fur better if it's raised on organic leaves, twigs, than not.. like us we are what we eat! Thank-you for answering my questions. These are only my thoughts I wanted to ask someone, this is a good place to ask. Quote
Flytyer Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 My question to organic, is the fur better if it's raised on organic leaves, twigs, than not.. like us we are what we eat! Most of our materials that we tie with come from herbivores......same as vegetarians in humans Quote
lonefisher Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 Few sites out there can't find the one I originally used but this one is basically the same. If you are gonna do some PM as theres a couple tricks I learned.... I also usually use the microwave method as its pretty damn simple and pretty fast as well http://www.knitty.com/issuefall02/FEATdyedwool.html Quote
lonefisher Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 sorry I think this one has the microwave directions http://www.thepiper.com/fiberart/koolaid/basic-howto.html Quote
Flytyer Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 I also usually use the microwave method as its pretty damn simple and pretty fast as well I 've thrown out alot that has been nuked and I would never recommend it to anyone........if its fresh best thing I have found was flesh, wash , salt and then wash again...never failed yet this way......drying wings is a knack in itself that I let me brother do as he is good at it Quote
lonefisher Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 I'm not talking about treating and cleaning out bugs..... this is for dyeing when dyed products are not available Quote
Flytyer Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 I misunderstood that sorry for the confusion....I have heard of nuking with koolaid before but have never tried it before Quote
lonefisher Posted November 6, 2007 Posted November 6, 2007 Flytyer no worries the post was kinda vague. It works quite well...... but the hair products need to be in small quantities and need to be dried very well afterwards..... also hair needs to be folded over the hide side to make the hairs flare out otherwise its tough to get the hair to dye right to the base. I usually staple the hide to hold it that way. Sometimes they need a couple treatments to get the desired affect. Feathers are pretty cool as well. Quote
ladystrange Posted November 7, 2007 Posted November 7, 2007 well, if anyone has today's calgary sun, pg 5 is a picture of my taxidermist. - sorry, off topic. i fleshed 4 pheasants last year - with the help of said taxidermist. after fleshing, i used borax powder, laid out on newspaper in the cool dark garage for 3 weeks before bagging and storing. pulled 2 out this summer and they look great, no bugs, no lost feathers, no decomp. birds are actually very easy but time consuming to get all the meat out from under the bones. Quote
Pipes Posted November 7, 2007 Posted November 7, 2007 For deer and elk hair, I always use the neck. These are significantly better quality hairs for tying flies. As mentioned, when preparing the hide, use a sharp knife at a 90 degree angle and scrape until you can't scrape no more. I prefer using pickling salt and seems to work fine. Definitely, wash with soap before and after. Never had problems with bugs. Also, don't forget the tail of a whitetail deer, great tying materials. For birds, same process, there usually isn't as much meat and fat on the skin and it is a little more delicate. I have had some good success so far and could give up some elk and deer hair, if anyone is interested. I will probably have 2 full deer necks and half an elk to give away. My success on the pheasants hasn't been good this year. Quote
ladystrange Posted November 8, 2007 Posted November 8, 2007 pipes, do you want to trade some pheasant for some elk? i have a few wings and a few colars/breasts and i think i have a back or 2 kicking around Quote
Pipes Posted November 8, 2007 Posted November 8, 2007 Ladystrange, How about I just give you some elk hair. I am putting faith in my dog to come up with the pheasants! I am away for about 3 weeks though, can I give you some when I get back? Pipes Quote
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